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Old 10-23-2013, 11:14 AM   #691
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If my car tends to push during on-power or whilst taking the sweeper on throttle, do you recommend reducing the front diff viscosity or make the rear diff heavier ? Off power steering never an issue with the 747.
Without knowing your current diff oils it is hard to make recommendations.
However on thottle steering in high speed will increase if you increase front diff oil stiffness. The more you go towards a solid front axle the more on power steering you will have.

Increasing the rear helps up to a point, but if tou go too far for the track conditions you end up with snap oversteer in the middle of the corner.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:23 PM   #692
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The easiest fix for me when that happens is, I put the sliding weight more to the rear!it will steer more and you can adjust the weight without turning off the engine.because of these weights,I rarely change the setup anymore,for my hometrack at least.
But I should test more stuff too, but not. When raceday is near,that's just me hehe
Interesting theory. I will definitely test it out. My 747 is yet to come this Friday but I will keep that in mind.
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:07 PM   #693
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Without knowing your current diff oils it is hard to make recommendations.
However on thottle steering in high speed will increase if you increase front diff oil stiffness. The more you go towards a solid front axle the more on power steering you will have.

Increasing the rear helps up to a point, but if tou go too far for the track conditions you end up with snap oversteer in the middle of the corner.
I'm running stock set up with kit oil, 30k rear with 4 gears and 300k front with 4 gears.

I tried the weight ballast, sliding it towards the rear does increase overall steering but it made rear end of the car too nervous off power. I am looking for more on-power steering and slightly more rotation; at the same time if I could reduce some of the excessive off-power low speed turn in.

Maybe I can try 500k + 4 gears front and increase the rear viscosity a little to 50k (4 gear). Track is a mixture of low and high speed bends, traction is good but not to the point of traction rolling, it doesn't happen on my track.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:10 AM   #694
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I'm running stock set up with kit oil, 30k rear with 4 gears and 300k front with 4 gears.

I tried the weight ballast, sliding it towards the rear does increase overall steering but it made rear end of the car too nervous off power. I am looking for more on-power steering and slightly more rotation; at the same time if I could reduce some of the excessive off-power low speed turn in.

Maybe I can try 500k + 4 gears front and increase the rear viscosity a little to 50k (4 gear). Track is a mixture of low and high speed bends, traction is good but not to the point of traction rolling, it doesn't happen on my track.
I don't think you will gain a lot of steering going from 300k to 500k. Considering your wishes, I'd suggest running 1 or 2 mm more caster. That will increase mid corner steering and reduce turn in.
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:01 AM   #695
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Guys,

Eventually will jump into the 747 boat ... can you please let me know wich optionals are mandatory to use (if any) and usual spare parts for track support ... all focussed 100% on racing.

My local nitro sedan sponsor got R10's from HPI/HB some months ago, great cars so far but factory support on spares is horrible, so he is evaluating the fact of jumping on serpent for nitro sedan racing.

regards,
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:18 PM   #696
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Guys,

Eventually will jump into the 747 boat ... can you please let me know wich optionals are mandatory to use (if any) and usual spare parts for track support ... all focussed 100% on racing.

My local nitro sedan sponsor got R10's from HPI/HB some months ago, great cars so far but factory support on spares is horrible, so he is evaluating the fact of jumping on serpent for nitro sedan racing.

regards,
Pato you have pm
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:30 PM   #697
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Guys,

Eventually will jump into the 747 boat ... can you please let me know wich optionals are mandatory to use (if any) and usual spare parts for track support ... all focussed 100% on racing.

My local nitro sedan sponsor got R10's from HPI/HB some months ago, great cars so far but factory support on spares is horrible, so he is evaluating the fact of jumping on serpent for nitro sedan racing.

regards,
You are probably looking at getting:
-low friction belts
-alu diff pulleys
just to free up the drivetrain personally for me its a must, but the overall weight will suffer, because the pulleys are quiet heavy.

and before building the car is to mill or dremel the chassis in front of the flywheel gap as the clutch plate touches.

I hope that helped, other questions dont hesistate to ask on this thread.
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Last edited by BBQboy; 10-25-2013 at 05:59 AM.
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Old 10-26-2013, 04:45 PM   #698
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I just assembled my car last night and encountered a problem with battery. The battery touched the side belt and I can't seem to find the right position to avoid it. My friend tells me to use Lipo or Life but just wondered if there's any other way to keep my NiMh.
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:46 PM   #699
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I just assembled my car last night and encountered a problem with battery. The battery touched the side belt and I can't seem to find the right position to avoid it. My friend tells me to use Lipo or Life but just wondered if there's any other way to keep my NiMh.
How wide is your battery? I run two different batteries a 1300mah li-fe (75 grams)by Reedy and a 800 mah lipo(40 grams) by Eflite. The maximum width battery is around 28.5mm, Anything wider than that; will rub on the side belt. Are you sure you mounted the battery holder correctly?

Pass you soon...
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:59 PM   #700
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How wide is your battery? I run two different batteries a 1300mah li-fe (75 grams)by Reedy and a 800 mah lipo(40 grams) by Eflite. The maximum width battery is around 28.5mm, Anything wider than that; will rub on the side belt. Are you sure you mounted the battery holder correctly?

Pass you soon...
It's 31mm wide. But it's about the same width as the battery plate. I taped it to the battery plate and screwed it to radio plate. Very narrow margin but the belt is not touching it now but it's very close. Is there any other way to fix battery to the plate than using tape? Cuz there's a bit of space that battery can go further into middle of chassis but it doesn seem really plausible if I use tape to fix it to battery plate.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:08 PM   #701
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It's 31mm wide. But it's about the same width as the battery plate. I taped it to the battery plate and screwed it to radio plate. Very narrow margin but the belt is not touching it now but it's very close. Is there any other way to fix battery to the plate than using tape? Cuz there's a bit of space that battery can go further into middle of chassis but it doesn seem really plausible if I use tape to fix it to battery plate.
I've seen batteries mounted with shoo-goo. My li-fe is 28.3mm wide and its a tight fit, my lipo is only 25mm wide and it has room to spare. If you use tape I would wrap it only in the middle with 3 wraps max.


Pass you soon...
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:11 PM   #702
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I totally didn't know my charger can charge LiFe and I just found it can. Just that i've never used LiFe that I never even bothered to check manual. I'll just go ahead and buy a couple. I can use Life w/o using a regulator right? Is there a recommended brand?
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:16 PM   #703
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Another question regarding 2nd gear shoe. The manual wasn't clear about how tight the shoe gap set-screws should be. I know I'm supposed to tighten them so that they don't stick out and it only lightly touches the central adaptor. I just set them in a way that 2nd gear turns freely w/o friction. Is there a magic way to set it?
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:01 PM   #704
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Another question regarding 2nd gear shoe. The manual wasn't clear about how tight the shoe gap set-screws should be. I know I'm supposed to tighten them so that they don't stick out and it only lightly touches the central adaptor. I just set them in a way that 2nd gear turns freely w/o friction. Is there a magic way to set it?
Yes, you can use a li-fe without a regulator. Adjust the small set screws until they just begin to seperate the shoes. Make sure both screws are adjusted equally.

Pass you soon...
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Old 10-27-2013, 02:30 AM   #705
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Guys,

Eventually will jump into the 747 boat ... can you please let me know wich optionals are mandatory to use (if any) and usual spare parts for track support ... all focussed 100% on racing.

My local nitro sedan sponsor got R10's from HPI/HB some months ago, great cars so far but factory support on spares is horrible, so he is evaluating the fact of jumping on serpent for nitro sedan racing.

regards,
Pato:

Would be a shame for you to change cars so soon from the HB R10, my brother (both running the R10) and I have recently been talking about the support thing and the lack of development since the car was released late last year. Would think if you are driving for someone they would be interested in creating own local support for the car and sharing of information. But does make it hard when parts are hard to get.

Take care
Andrew
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