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Old 10-17-2013, 12:35 PM   #676
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Thanks for the quick response.

Well i did my clutch setup very similar to what Salven describes on the video.

That is why i am so impressed that the setup did not work.

i do not know what to do..
If the clutch slips the spring is set too tight.
You could try the following as well: put m3x4 setscrews in the open flyweight holes. This makes the weights a little heavier and helps make the clutch less sensitive.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:22 AM   #677
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Has anyone had any issues fitting a new picco to their 747? I just got one of the 2013 emx motors and can't seem to find a position for the fuel nipple that works? It either hits the bottom of the ins box or the mounting hole/lug for the chassis brace.

It's driving me nuts!

Any suggestions? I'm thinking of just cutting this lug off.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:31 PM   #678
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I Face mine to the back and run a longer fuel line as the tank is under the 75cc limit.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:58 PM   #679
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Ok guys i build a brand new 747 and i have done evrything stated on the manual ..

I started the car with an already broken in engine and the car wouldnt move..


so i unscrew the centax nut and tried it again..

the car still wouldnt move until i uncrew the nut to point where the car would move ok

the clutch was working ok however the acceleration was not good at all you could hear the clutch slipping.. i have tried many positions on the clutch nut and finally when i run the car two three laps on the track the clutch was getting really hot and it would start making the engine make that strange noice... at the end i manged to run the brand new car a few laps and the yellow show will slip that much that the car will not move at all..the show was destroyed in a less than two three tanks..

how come there was so much slippage from the begining? i dont know what i did wrong..

now i have a black show from 710 car and i dont know if i should put it on the 747 or not... btw the clutchbell had as per manual a gap of 0.6. i put only 1 shim between the thrust bearing and the other bushing.

i am so confused.. someone told me that the capricorn clutches are the way to go..he told me he had problems with his serpent clutches as well..

i had a serpent 720 and i didnt have such a problem before...is there anyone that can enlight me ?? is there anyone that had the same problem?

thanks a lot..
I had the same problem when I built the car. It turned out that I had turn the clutch nut too tight when I was installing the flywheel and I the clutch nut deformed like a mushroom to the point that the spring was bound up on it. Sounds crazy I know... you might want to check.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:28 PM   #680
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How often do you guys rebuild your front and rear diffs ? I have mine from new (standard set-up) and the car has done around 2.5 gallons. I'm starting to find the car less able to hold its intended line of travel during on-throttle steering, keeps pushing wide. Low speed and off power steering is still plentiful. You reckon the rear diff is beginning to unload more on power?
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:30 AM   #681
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Originally Posted by peppernick View Post
How often do you guys rebuild your front and rear diffs ? I have mine from new (standard set-up) and the car has done around 2.5 gallons. I'm starting to find the car less able to hold its intended line of travel during on-throttle steering, keeps pushing wide. Low speed and off power steering is still plentiful. You reckon the rear diff is beginning to unload more on power?
I recommend, when rebuild the diff is too make sure you fill under the main crown gears in the diff and also I was a fan of using air remover tool to draw out air in the diff but it doesn't help on the 747.

My track is fast and flowing and my current set up is 1 million oil in my front and 100k two gears in the rear this is set up for high traction.

I hope that helps
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Last edited by BBQboy; 10-22-2013 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:59 PM   #682
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Originally Posted by peppernick View Post
How often do you guys rebuild your front and rear diffs ? I have mine from new (standard set-up) and the car has done around 2.5 gallons. I'm starting to find the car less able to hold its intended line of travel during on-throttle steering, keeps pushing wide. Low speed and off power steering is still plentiful. You reckon the rear diff is beginning to unload more on power?
I replace my diff oil about every 3 races.

Pass you soon...

Pass you soon...
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:56 PM   #683
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I replace my diff oil about every 3 races.

Pass you soon...

Pass you soon...
OMG really? Is it really necessary?
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:04 PM   #684
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My track is fast and flowing and my current set up is 1 million oil in my front and 100k two gears in the rear this is set up for high traction.
If my car tends to push during on-power or whilst taking the sweeper on throttle, do you recommend reducing the front diff viscosity or make the rear diff heavier ? Off power steering never an issue with the 747.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:25 PM   #685
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OMG really? Is it really necessary?
You asked the question.... I'm just answering... Look at the cost... It's that expensive...

Pass you soon...
..
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:33 PM   #686
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Originally Posted by peppernick View Post
If my car tends to push during on-power or whilst taking the sweeper on throttle, do you recommend reducing the front diff viscosity or make the rear diff heavier ? Off power steering never an issue with the 747.
What are your current diff settings???
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:43 PM   #687
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Has anyone had any issues fitting a new picco to their 747? I just got one of the 2013 emx motors and can't seem to find a position for the fuel nipple that works? It either hits the bottom of the ins box or the mounting hole/lug for the chassis brace.

It's driving me nuts!

Any suggestions? I'm thinking of just cutting this lug off.
All my 747's have the chassis brace lug cut off the bulkhead. I run Picco engines.

Unless you want to try the brace in the future i can't see a reason not to cut it off.

I have had issues before where the fuel line gets cut on the INS box or that lug it's a tight fit.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:40 AM   #688
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Thanks aza, I went ahead and cut it off, heaps of room now!
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:12 AM   #689
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Originally Posted by peppernick View Post
If my car tends to push during on-power or whilst taking the sweeper on throttle, do you recommend reducing the front diff viscosity or make the rear diff heavier ? Off power steering never an issue with the 747.
Sounds like the front diff oil is too heavy or possibly too soft of anti roll bar if you can use the kit front sway bar. If your track tighten up in the in field try 100k two gears in the rear or try 80k four gears
for a safe and a easier car to drive.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:01 AM   #690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peppernick View Post
If my car tends to push during on-power or whilst taking the sweeper on throttle, do you recommend reducing the front diff viscosity or make the rear diff heavier ? Off power steering never an issue with the 747.
The easiest fix for me when that happens is, I put the sliding weight more to the rear!it will steer more and you can adjust the weight without turning off the engine.because of these weights,I rarely change the setup anymore,for my hometrack at least.
But I should test more stuff too, but not. When raceday is near,that's just me hehe
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