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Old 08-01-2013, 02:14 AM   #301
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I do that as i want my car top notch all the time, i have replaced chassis pretty often on all cars i have driven.. the R10 chassie i replace a little earlier than what i used to as the chassi get bent pretty easy in front of the engine.
Most drivers vould not replace the chassie that often but i am picky and whant everything fresh!

// Roland

Last edited by Ec1; 08-01-2013 at 06:37 AM.
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:03 PM   #302
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Mhhh any chance to design a piece that keep our chassis straight ?

The only problem i got with the car was having my brakes stuck on acceleration, i had to unscrew the brake a little and keep it from totally out with some loctite and problem solved.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:25 PM   #303
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What about a piece of carbon fibre that goes from the back of the radio tray to the 2 speed bulk head over the clutch bell. There are some guys here in Australia that make the braces for the Mtx-5. maybe it needs something similar to that. http://www.tracksiderc.com.au/social...now-available/
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Old 08-02-2013, 06:50 PM   #304
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What about a piece of carbon fibre that goes from the back of the radio tray to the 2 speed bulk head over the clutch bell. There are some guys here in Australia that make the braces for the Mtx-5. maybe it needs something similar to that. http://www.tracksiderc.com.au/social...now-available/
Another race meet, another win in your final and you finish top 4 overall for the night... Well done Richard, you are driving really well and your R10 looks good on track. I must stay retired now as you will shame me up

A big thank to Harry and John for time and help!

Thanks
Andrew
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:57 PM   #305
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Thanks Andy, thankfully it came together for the final after a few issues with the car. Hitting a stationary car on the back straight didn't do us any favours. The chassis is probably FCKED by now. XD
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:48 AM   #306
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Thanks Andy, thankfully it came together for the final after a few issues with the car. Hitting a stationary car on the back straight didn't do us any favours. The chassis is probably FCKED by now. XD
Change it after the interclub Richard
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:14 PM   #307
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Default ROLL CENTER ADJUSTMENTS

I do fully understand the principles concerning roll center adjustments, but in the R10 we have an additional possibility which alters the position of the lower arms (inside or outside) in the case of the rear and the same on the front upper arms so that, except for the center position, in the case of for example lowering the rear roll center you have two options for placing the arms, in side or outside.

My question is what are the effects on using either position (in -out)

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Old 08-07-2013, 12:08 AM   #308
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I do fully understand the principles concerning roll center adjustments, but in the R10 we have an additional possibility which alters the position of the lower arms (inside or outside) in the case of the rear and the same on the front upper arms so that, except for the center position, in the case of for example lowering the rear roll center you have two options for placing the arms, in side or outside.

My question is what are the effects on using either position (in -out)

AFM
Hi AFM

Your right the R10 does have this advantage over other brands. I have checked my Xray and KM, and they both only allow an basically an upper or lower setting.

Would inner and outer just adjust the rear wheelbase width with out having to adjust the pivot balls and then you still also have the option of upper or lower with either setting?

On the old G4 we use to reduce the width of the wheelbase to overcome the on-power oversteer the car had.

I found the following on the Xray website RE: Adjusting track width

Wider
Increases rear grip at corner entry.
Increases high-speed on-throttle steering.
Use to avoid traction rolling.
Narrower
Increases grip at corner exit.
Increases high-speed understeer.
Increases front grip in hairpin turns

Interesting discussion none the less if Roland or any others have any thoughts!

Thanks
Andrew
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:33 PM   #309
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from chile very happy with my new r10, will upload photos later


regards
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:35 AM   #310
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A little weekend work on Richards R10 last night and we have managed to drop just over 50grams out of it with new Capricorn front and rear diffs, Capricorn rear alloy drive shafts and KM Racing outdrives and drives hexes.

Still room for more improvement with changing to a LiFe battery from the NMH pack and a few other goodies I have in mind

Is this now a Hot Cap... Use to have a Cappy-Ray that was fast



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Old 08-11-2013, 04:42 AM   #311
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
A little weekend work on Richards R10 last night and we have managed to drop just over 50grams out of it with new Capricorn front and rear diffs, Capricorn rear alloy drive shafts and KM Racing outdrives and drives hexes.

Still room for more improvement with changing to a LiFe battery from the NMH pack and a few other goodies I have in mind

Is this now a Hot Cap... Use to have a Cappy-Ray that was fast



Andrew
No what u have there my friend, is a hpi that cost more than a complete race ready cap co2 wc!!! And still heavier!! Its just not worth it!
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:29 AM   #312
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No what u have there my friend, is a hpi that cost more than a complete race ready cap co2 wc!!! And still heavier!! Its just not worth it!
here is the tread for HB discussion and for the HB player to exchange their idea or the technical knowledge,and is not to recommand which car is better or which car is value for money,if you want to compare with capricon wc(world championship),why not you recommand with hk-1 wc(world champion not championship)
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:41 AM   #313
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No what u have there my friend, is a hpi that cost more than a complete race ready cap co2 wc!!! And still heavier!! Its just not worth it!
Our Capricorn dealer in Australia only lists the standard C02 kit for $699au, I could get it from eBay from Denmark, but I already have an unused C02 kit... Please remember that this is my Brothers project and not mine and he chose the Hot Bodies. He is doing well with it and finished 8th at our recent state titles and is running it this weekend at a local interclub championship.

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Old 08-12-2013, 03:01 AM   #314
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Our Capricorn dealer in Australia only lists the standard C02 kit for $699au, I could get it from eBay from Denmark, but I already have an unused C02 kit... Please remember that this is my Brothers project and not mine and he chose the Hot Bodies. He is doing well with it and finished 8th at our recent state titles and is running it this weekend at a local interclub championship.

It doesnt fall apart... It rolls nicely, has everything all the other cars have and it's delivering PB's all the time and that's all that matters. Also great that you have lots of spare C02 parts to scab in case... But that dont happen much

Did you sort the engine mounts and give them a once over with fresh screws? It's definitely a Top Engine remove chassis, the striipped gears you had were engine mounting related and the car has ample room to remove from top. Should stock up on a few good engine mounting bolts too.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:08 AM   #315
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It doesnt fall apart... It rolls nicely, has everything all the other cars have and it's delivering PB's all the time and that's all that matters. Also great that you have lots of spare C02 parts to scab in case... But that dont happen much

Did you sort the engine mounts and give them a once over with fresh screws? It's definitely a Top Engine remove chassis, the striipped gears you had were engine mounting related and the car has ample room to remove from top. Should stock up on a few good engine mounting bolts too.
Hi Harry

I am not sure what Richard did with that, I was hoping to pull the engine down and give it a clean but things have been busy with work and family things of late. Hoping to head down to Wynnum on Wednesday to get another 2 speed working and see how the car is on a completely different track. Would loved to have had some harder rear wire sway bars to try...
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