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Old 05-09-2013, 02:05 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by afm View Post
Well I allways thought the same way, but when i saw details of the car I decided to change from my MTX-5 to this R10......let me tell you it is a more than capable player in this class.....car is well designed, build up was a breeze, and track performance has made me improve my lap times since day one on the track....in my modest opinion this is the underdog in this class, and once you have it, build it, drive it, you forget it is an HPI

AFM
I know its more than capable, n looks good too, i would have tried it ,if it was available when iwas on the market for a new ride......hpi or not i saw what it did at the worlds! Domination!!
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:15 PM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Wow crickets in here! I dug this up from pg2. Wow I knew nobody would try this car......smh. Just cause its HPI, it's just synonymous with RTR Just like I knew no one would try a HK1 even tho it's the world champ, it's just to ugly
My brother Richard ran his R10 again last night and it looks to change direction and corner very well. He is still struggling with the starter box issue, he bought an Ofna JLR starter box and it does start it, but still the wheel is too wide and it is tweaking the chassis when you push down on it on the box.

In his final he stripped 2nd gear and I have noticed with the car in your hands there is a little flex, by no way as bad as the MTX5 but wondered if anyone was concerned by it?

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Andrew
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:35 AM
  #243  
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Hey guys, so I might be jumping ship from a Capricorn to the HB R10.
The Capricorn is awesome on high bite track but when grip gets low its handling becomes a but unpredictable.

Any suggestion that I should take care when building the R10 in order not to go through all the pages?

Thanks
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:23 PM
  #244  
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Hey guys, so I might be jumping ship from a Capricorn to the HB R10.
The Capricorn is awesome on high bite track but when grip gets low its handling becomes a but unpredictable.

Any suggestion that I should take care when building the R10 in order not to go through all the pages?

Thanks
I had no problems building the car, but I have some tips after using it, setting it up and racing it for the first time:
1. use two front shock towers sandwiched together, because it is also the support for the upper arm pins, and with one tower it is a very weak point.
2. after the first runs the side belt gets very slack and with the belt tensioner at maximun tension the belt is still loose, so drill a new hole on the plate that holds the bearing, just below the original hole....it willgive you enough tension then.
3. place the receiver on the steering servo, do not place it on the designed place...it is to close to the pipe, so there is to much heat.
4. rebuild diffs checking shiming after first usage, they develop lateral play.
5. plastic shock pivot balls get oval after one race....iīm trying to find metal ones, but they are so small (4.8mm OD)...havenīt found ones yet....if somebody knows where to get them tell me.
6. get yourself front spare lower arms....i think they are the fuse part on the car in case of crash...i broke one on a not so hard lateral hit to a track outside board

Hope this helps
AFM
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:24 PM
  #245  
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AFM;
5.
These are perfect:
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=68826

Last edited by Ec1; 05-15-2013 at 05:06 AM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:10 AM
  #246  
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A tip is also to use Tough racing belts as they are high quality Japan made Low friction belts:
http://www.toughracing.com/

The Shepard middle belt fits the R10

I will try dogbones at the rear as they give the car a little more grip and i also think the stock ones are a bit to long, making the car lose grip with big tyres/bumpy track.

// Roland

Last edited by Ec1; 05-16-2013 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:29 PM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by Ec1 View Post
Thanks
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:13 PM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by afm View Post
I had no problems building the car, but I have some tips after using it, setting it up and racing it for the first time:
1. use two front shock towers sandwiched together, because it is also the support for the upper arm pins, and with one tower it is a very weak point.
2. after the first runs the side belt gets very slack and with the belt tensioner at maximun tension the belt is still loose, so drill a new hole on the plate that holds the bearing, just below the original hole....it willgive you enough tension then.
3. place the receiver on the steering servo, do not place it on the designed place...it is to close to the pipe, so there is to much heat.
4. rebuild diffs checking shiming after first usage, they develop lateral play.
5. plastic shock pivot balls get oval after one race....iīm trying to find metal ones, but they are so small (4.8mm OD)...havenīt found ones yet....if somebody knows where to get them tell me.
6. get yourself front spare lower arms....i think they are the fuse part on the car in case of crash...i broke one on a not so hard lateral hit to a track outside board

Hope this helps
AFM
AFM:

Interesting about the play in the diffs, is this the reason EC1 is concerned about the rear drive shaft being too long and binding the rear suspension on a bumpy track? I have checked both the diffs on my KM (used) and my Xray (used) and the KM does have more backward and forwards movement in the diff outdrives, and the Xray has a little movement. If anyone was concerned about it wouldn't an easy fix be to run Xray diffs???
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:32 PM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by afm View Post
I had no problems building the car, but I have some tips after using it, setting it up and racing it for the first time:
1. use two front shock towers sandwiched together, because it is also the support for the upper arm pins, and with one tower it is a very weak point.
2. after the first runs the side belt gets very slack and with the belt tensioner at maximun tension the belt is still loose, so drill a new hole on the plate that holds the bearing, just below the original hole....it willgive you enough tension then.
3. place the receiver on the steering servo, do not place it on the designed place...it is to close to the pipe, so there is to much heat.
4. rebuild diffs checking shiming after first usage, they develop lateral play.
5. plastic shock pivot balls get oval after one race....iīm trying to find metal ones, but they are so small (4.8mm OD)...havenīt found ones yet....if somebody knows where to get them tell me.
6. get yourself front spare lower arms....i think they are the fuse part on the car in case of crash...i broke one on a not so hard lateral hit to a track outside board

Hope this helps
AFM
Thanks mate
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:33 PM
  #250  
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Default Pressure of stock springs

Hey guys, do you know the pressure specs of the stock springs that come with the car?

Thanks
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:34 AM
  #251  
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anyone knows if any other car brand spur gears can be used on this car?
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:02 AM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by chromie View Post
anyone knows if any other car brand spur gears can be used on this car?
Km and xray.
//roland
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:06 AM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
AFM:

Interesting about the play in the diffs, is this the reason EC1 is concerned about the rear drive shaft being too long and binding the rear suspension on a bumpy track? I have checked both the diffs on my KM (used) and my Xray (used) and the KM does have more backward and forwards movement in the diff outdrives, and the Xray has a little movement. If anyone was concerned about it wouldn't an easy fix be to run Xray diffs???
I use xray front diff as i want to use plastic pullies. My rear HB diff has no play yet though.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:24 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by Ec1 View Post
Km and xray.
//roland
thanks
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:25 PM
  #255  
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has anyone tried using a wide plastic bumper yet?
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