Clanking noise and not shifting right
#1
Clanking noise and not shifting right
Hello all, new to the site. I read seveal pages to see if this question already was posted and did not see it, hope you can help.
I purchased a Nitro car for christmas over the internet from exportpro.
Here are the details
PACKAGE INCLUDE:
(1) 1 x BRAND NEW .15 JAPAN TEAM INFINITY ENGINE
(2) 1 x 1:10 SCALE PAINTED DURABLE BODY
(3) ALUMINUM CHASSIS
(4) QUALITY FUTABA OEM WHEEL RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
(5) TWO SPEED TRANSMISSION
(6) 20 BALL BEARINGS (INSTALLED)
(7) 2 PAIRS OF ALUMINUM SHOCKS (INSTALLED)
(8) FULL ENGLISH MANUAL AND WARRANTY BY ACME
(9) TWO SPEED TRANSMISSION
When I run the car it does not seem to want to shift gears, I have done some research and I know there is a set screw for this type of transmission that needs to be turned right or left to set the shift point.
I wanted tp see if any of you have this same setup
and if so have you had issues like this including a clanking noise like something is either loose or grinding.
I do not believe it is the engine I have broke it in and it sounds just fine.
I have attached a picture of the car, THank you for your help.
I purchased a Nitro car for christmas over the internet from exportpro.
Here are the details
PACKAGE INCLUDE:
(1) 1 x BRAND NEW .15 JAPAN TEAM INFINITY ENGINE
(2) 1 x 1:10 SCALE PAINTED DURABLE BODY
(3) ALUMINUM CHASSIS
(4) QUALITY FUTABA OEM WHEEL RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
(5) TWO SPEED TRANSMISSION
(6) 20 BALL BEARINGS (INSTALLED)
(7) 2 PAIRS OF ALUMINUM SHOCKS (INSTALLED)
(8) FULL ENGLISH MANUAL AND WARRANTY BY ACME
(9) TWO SPEED TRANSMISSION
When I run the car it does not seem to want to shift gears, I have done some research and I know there is a set screw for this type of transmission that needs to be turned right or left to set the shift point.
I wanted tp see if any of you have this same setup
and if so have you had issues like this including a clanking noise like something is either loose or grinding.
I do not believe it is the engine I have broke it in and it sounds just fine.
I have attached a picture of the car, THank you for your help.
#2
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Re: Clanking noise and not shifting right
Originally posted by RCCrazed
Hello all, new to the site. I read seveal pages to see if this question already was posted and did not see it, hope you can help.
I purchased a Nitro car for christmas over the internet from exportpro.
Here are the details
PACKAGE INCLUDE:
(1) 1 x BRAND NEW .15 JAPAN TEAM INFINITY ENGINE
(2) 1 x 1:10 SCALE PAINTED DURABLE BODY
(3) ALUMINUM CHASSIS
(4) QUALITY FUTABA OEM WHEEL RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
(5) TWO SPEED TRANSMISSION
(6) 20 BALL BEARINGS (INSTALLED)
(7) 2 PAIRS OF ALUMINUM SHOCKS (INSTALLED)
(8) FULL ENGLISH MANUAL AND WARRANTY BY ACME
(9) TWO SPEED TRANSMISSION
When I run the car it does not seem to want to shift gears, I have done some research and I know there is a set screw for this type of transmission that needs to be turned right or left to set the shift point.
I wanted tp see if any of you have this same setup
and if so have you had issues like this including a clanking noise like something is either loose or grinding.
I do not believe it is the engine I have broke it in and it sounds just fine.
I have attached a picture of the car, THank you for your help.
Hello all, new to the site. I read seveal pages to see if this question already was posted and did not see it, hope you can help.
I purchased a Nitro car for christmas over the internet from exportpro.
Here are the details
PACKAGE INCLUDE:
(1) 1 x BRAND NEW .15 JAPAN TEAM INFINITY ENGINE
(2) 1 x 1:10 SCALE PAINTED DURABLE BODY
(3) ALUMINUM CHASSIS
(4) QUALITY FUTABA OEM WHEEL RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
(5) TWO SPEED TRANSMISSION
(6) 20 BALL BEARINGS (INSTALLED)
(7) 2 PAIRS OF ALUMINUM SHOCKS (INSTALLED)
(8) FULL ENGLISH MANUAL AND WARRANTY BY ACME
(9) TWO SPEED TRANSMISSION
When I run the car it does not seem to want to shift gears, I have done some research and I know there is a set screw for this type of transmission that needs to be turned right or left to set the shift point.
I wanted tp see if any of you have this same setup
and if so have you had issues like this including a clanking noise like something is either loose or grinding.
I do not believe it is the engine I have broke it in and it sounds just fine.
I have attached a picture of the car, THank you for your help.
#3
are the shocks threaded?? if so maybe its your chassis thats grinding the ground?
also before you ran the car did you run in your engine or just drove it right out of the box?
also before you ran the car did you run in your engine or just drove it right out of the box?
#4
Re: Re: Clanking noise and not shifting right
Originally posted by Marcos.J
what brand is that car?
what brand is that car?
#5
It is called a cyclone pro by ACME.
I know the chassis is not bottoming out because there are no scuff marks.
I broke the engine in first (6 tanks of gas) and then ran it.
I thought I checked all the screws to make sure everything was tight.
I started inspecting it again last night and I found a couple of things.
1. not all the screws were tight (the ones holding in the transmission were loose)
2. I noticed that I lost a screw that mounts the engine to the chassis
3. I noticed that the engine was not in line with the gears.
I adjusted everything last night and will test run it again today.
I was reading on one of the other threads that the spacing on the gears should be a paper widt between the diff and the gears.
The only thing that is a pain about ordering cars over the internet is that your local hobby store may not carry all the parts you need.
I know the chassis is not bottoming out because there are no scuff marks.
I broke the engine in first (6 tanks of gas) and then ran it.
I thought I checked all the screws to make sure everything was tight.
I started inspecting it again last night and I found a couple of things.
1. not all the screws were tight (the ones holding in the transmission were loose)
2. I noticed that I lost a screw that mounts the engine to the chassis
3. I noticed that the engine was not in line with the gears.
I adjusted everything last night and will test run it again today.
I was reading on one of the other threads that the spacing on the gears should be a paper widt between the diff and the gears.
The only thing that is a pain about ordering cars over the internet is that your local hobby store may not carry all the parts you need.
#6
i hope everything goes well for you
one thing you should do with the engine mount screws is just put a dab of threadlocker and that will stock the screws from vibrating off the chassis
your local hardware store should have threadlocker.
one thing you should do with the engine mount screws is just put a dab of threadlocker and that will stock the screws from vibrating off the chassis
your local hardware store should have threadlocker.
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Rc-crazed,
Put some lock-tite on all metal to metal connections. This will ensure the screws don't back out on you again. The noise was most likely due to an out of line drive shaft or improper gear mesh. If after all of this you still hear the noise and suspect it is still the 2-speed, Turn the set-screw in the tranny all the way in and slowly turn counter clockwise until you hear the tranny shift into 2nd. You can do this by holding the car in the air and slowly giving throttle until you hear and feel it shift. That will put you in the correct ballpark. Then fine tune the tranny while running it , to get the proper shift point. Good luck and don't get frustrated.
Put some lock-tite on all metal to metal connections. This will ensure the screws don't back out on you again. The noise was most likely due to an out of line drive shaft or improper gear mesh. If after all of this you still hear the noise and suspect it is still the 2-speed, Turn the set-screw in the tranny all the way in and slowly turn counter clockwise until you hear the tranny shift into 2nd. You can do this by holding the car in the air and slowly giving throttle until you hear and feel it shift. That will put you in the correct ballpark. Then fine tune the tranny while running it , to get the proper shift point. Good luck and don't get frustrated.
#9
That looks a lot like an RS4-3 or Hot bodies car. Could be that you just need to get your engine running with more power (leaner). The adjustment screw in the 2 speed needs to be turned counterclockwise to make the 2nd gear engagement sooner. Best thing you can do is the dissassemble the 2 speed so you can see exactly where the adjustment screw is located.
Good luck
Good luck
#10
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I will be putting lock tite on the screws.
Also for anyone who is reading this that is new to this as well I looked up the Traxxas website and in the message board there was a discussion on 2 speed trani.
In it they had a great link to a guide for tuning 2 speed trani that pointed out the 2 set screws
there is 1 that is in the center This holds the trani on the shaft.
The second one is at an angle and that is the one that you adjust to get the shift point set.
Now it is not in the same spot for all trani's but the concept is the same.
I applied this knowledge and sure enough I found the screws.
Well, I am going out to see if I can reap the benefits of all this knowledge. I will let you know how it turns out.
Thank you all and have a great day with your cars or trucks.
I will be putting lock tite on the screws.
Also for anyone who is reading this that is new to this as well I looked up the Traxxas website and in the message board there was a discussion on 2 speed trani.
In it they had a great link to a guide for tuning 2 speed trani that pointed out the 2 set screws
there is 1 that is in the center This holds the trani on the shaft.
The second one is at an angle and that is the one that you adjust to get the shift point set.
Now it is not in the same spot for all trani's but the concept is the same.
I applied this knowledge and sure enough I found the screws.
Well, I am going out to see if I can reap the benefits of all this knowledge. I will let you know how it turns out.
Thank you all and have a great day with your cars or trucks.
#11
Originally posted by RCCrazed
It is called a cyclone pro by ACME.
I know the chassis is not bottoming out because there are no scuff marks.
I broke the engine in first (6 tanks of gas) and then ran it.
I thought I checked all the screws to make sure everything was tight.
I started inspecting it again last night and I found a couple of things.
1. not all the screws were tight (the ones holding in the transmission were loose)
2. I noticed that I lost a screw that mounts the engine to the chassis
3. I noticed that the engine was not in line with the gears.
I adjusted everything last night and will test run it again today.
I was reading on one of the other threads that the spacing on the gears should be a paper widt between the diff and the gears.
The only thing that is a pain about ordering cars over the internet is that your local hobby store may not carry all the parts you need.
It is called a cyclone pro by ACME.
I know the chassis is not bottoming out because there are no scuff marks.
I broke the engine in first (6 tanks of gas) and then ran it.
I thought I checked all the screws to make sure everything was tight.
I started inspecting it again last night and I found a couple of things.
1. not all the screws were tight (the ones holding in the transmission were loose)
2. I noticed that I lost a screw that mounts the engine to the chassis
3. I noticed that the engine was not in line with the gears.
I adjusted everything last night and will test run it again today.
I was reading on one of the other threads that the spacing on the gears should be a paper widt between the diff and the gears.
The only thing that is a pain about ordering cars over the internet is that your local hobby store may not carry all the parts you need.
#12
Originally posted by Team-RTR
i knew it was an ACME car as soon as i saw the diff housings and shocks.
i knew it was an ACME car as soon as i saw the diff housings and shocks.