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Old 12-23-2004, 05:35 PM   #16
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since this is your first nitro car, did you check your needle settings? the little screw below the carburator neck is the idle. that does NOT regulate the amount of fuel/air mixture you get like a Low Speed or High Speed needle. Most engines call for a 1mm gap when you arent giving throt or anything hence idle. Now i never had a hpi car nor engine so im not sure whether or not yours has a high speed needle and low speed needle. The LSN (low speed needle) should be on opposite side then the high speed needle (i will get to that next). It doesnt matter if your carburator is slide or rotary. Just follow the throttle linkage to the carb then where it is hooked up to, there will be a sqrew you see there (that is if you have a LSN). That will regulate how much fuel/air mix you get from low end to mid. NEXT, on the opposite side of the LSN, you will see a screw that seems to "stick out" of the carburator and is usualy on the left side of the carb inlet. That would be the HSN (high speed needle). Thus adjusts the fuel/air mix mid to top end. If your engine only has a screw/needle where the HSN would normal be, then that is your ONLY mixture setting needle. There SHOULD be a section in your manual that talks about Carb. Settings. Read upon that and see if they state what the factory settings are. Follow as directed if it does state, then after that, you should be ready to move on to the "Break In" process.

I hope this helps, crap like this has happend to me before and probaby almost everyone on this board. I didnt see anything said about your needle settings and whatnot so I thought id teach ya a litte Sorry if i sounded like i was talking to a 5 year old but i just wanted to clarify as much as i could so you could understand since you said it was your first nitro car.
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:05 PM   #17
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Never said a word about the glow igniter. You need to charge it overnight I believe for a good charge. That and glow plug are the first two things to check when a motor won't start.
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:01 PM   #18
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Great point Jbrow1. I guess that all of us just thought that is common sense and one of the first things listed in a manual.
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:23 PM   #19
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I have a brand new engine,that starts and idles for only what 30seconds then conks out,now when i pull the starter the engine wont even pop!

I have fresh batteries in my glow starter and a brand new glow plug any help would be much appreciated
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:44 PM   #20
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Hard to say what your problem may be. By brand new you mean you're breaking it in? Or it's already broken in and now you want to run it but are having problems?

A properly tuned motor and normal idle adjustment really won't sit and idle for to long. Need to blip the throttle every now and then to clear it out. I like to set my idle a touch high and use a bit more drag brake, and use a 4in1 clutch by mip.

So you could just be idling to long. Or idle could be to low.
Could be to lean on bottom and starved out of fuel, which may add to why it isn't popping.
Or it could be to rich and blubbering itself out also.

As for no pop, was the motor warm? And you rolled it over when it was still warm? Wouldn't pop so hard then. Sometimes you just need to let it cool down before you give it another go. But really need some more information like broken in or not, were you running it before this happened, did temperature outside change from last time you ran it....basically what happened prior to this problem.
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:59 PM   #21
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oopps!
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:03 PM   #22
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Did you charge your glowplug igniter?
It's very cold here now. You may have to use a heat gun to warm up the block!
Honda_Civic_Si Sent you a personal Message.
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by Honda_Civic_Si
How much money do you think it costs for this?

-Justin.
Hobbyshop owners by nature would help you out in most simple cases without charge. Unless your problem is a more complex one. Of course, with the idea in mind that you would patronise them whenever you have needs......

Alternatively you could go to your nearest track during weekends & ask for help & advise. Most RC players are pretty friendly people...
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Old 12-24-2004, 01:11 AM   #24
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Hey, I just want to thank everyone for posting so much information for me - this is such a great site!

Anyhow - here is an update for everyone.

Firstly, I charged my glowplug ignitor for 15 hours like the instructions say. It shows a good charge when connected to a glow plug.

Secondly, BuggyMulisha - that sounded like you were talking to someone who was in the R/C thing for a while, let alone a 5 year old!

SO, in the end - I took it back to where I got it and they started it for me! Yay! They tuned all the things that needed to be tuned and now I can start it myself, phew!

I broke in the engine for 4 tanks of nitro, what a long wait. It seems to idle with a high RPM so I lowered it a bit and now it doesn't konk out by itself - I assume I did the right thing.

(I am really new to engines and nitro R/C)

As I was saying, when I now try to run the car, it doesnt do anything - it just revs and then it seems to threaten to cut out on me (when pushing the throttle on my controller)

any ideas as to why this may happen?

Thanks again!


-Justin.

(And it is actually +4 here in Calgary!)
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Old 12-27-2004, 01:47 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Honda_Civic_Si
Hey, I just want to thank everyone for posting so much information for me - this is such a great site!

Anyhow - here is an update for everyone.

Firstly, I charged my glowplug ignitor for 15 hours like the instructions say. It shows a good charge when connected to a glow plug.

Secondly, BuggyMulisha - that sounded like you were talking to someone who was in the R/C thing for a while, let alone a 5 year old!

SO, in the end - I took it back to where I got it and they started it for me! Yay! They tuned all the things that needed to be tuned and now I can start it myself, phew!

I broke in the engine for 4 tanks of nitro, what a long wait. It seems to idle with a high RPM so I lowered it a bit and now it doesn't konk out by itself - I assume I did the right thing.

(I am really new to engines and nitro R/C)

As I was saying, when I now try to run the car, it doesnt do anything - it just revs and then it seems to threaten to cut out on me (when pushing the throttle on my controller)

any ideas as to why this may happen?

Thanks again!


-Justin.

(And it is actually +4 here in Calgary!)
OK I have a different car but have had a similar problem, I will describe my symptoms and if they match yours then my solution may help you ok hwg :

I started my engine (pull start) and while I was fitting the body I noticed the engine note change (revs drop) and it ran for approximately 6 seconds and it stopped, so I restarted it and blasted off bodyless to warm engine, and discovered that the engine would "flat spot" under power dump a heap of smoke then shoot off, after seeing this for the first time I decided to come to a stop and do it again, and again same thing, so I drove back over to me for adjustment and again the engine note changed and it stopped, so to combat the problem I reduced the idle mix screw 1/2 turn and the rpms of the engine increased, so I had to close down the idle set screw (less throttle at idle) until the car would sit on the spot at idle once I did this my high speed needed an adjustment but time got the better of me and it never happened.

In closing most people are very reluctant to tell somebody new to lean out their engine as if you go too far you will blow engines, it is much cheaper to blow plugs than engines

when tuning the engine familiarise yourself with the carb fitted to your engine where the adjustment screws are and what they do, with some experience just listening to the engine you will know when it is about to stop due to idling for too long another rule of thumb is if there is always a visible trail from your exhaust you will be always be on the slightly rich side, furthermore when your engine is idling watch the exhaust and see what its throwing out, no visible smoke == too lean
lots of smoke /droplets == too rich

also tightening these screws as in (doing up) leans the setting, loosening the screw (undoing) richens the setting, when tuning err on the rich side and if you suspect the engine is running too lean change it asap too lean for too long will fry engine quicksmart

to answer a possible question before you ask it :

your question : what made you decide to lean low speed :

that was because my idle screw was as wide as it would go, implying that the engine was running too rich and bogging down on fuel, and as this experience tought me is to consider where the other settings are to aid you in a tuning decision

ugh geeze this is long I hope it helps somebody
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Old 12-28-2004, 12:24 AM   #26
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No, no, no! That wasn't too long, and it makes sense! I took my car into the Hobbyshop and they are taking in for a few days to see what is wrong with the bugger. I hope they can fix it, and I would be surprised if they don't!

Thanks again, and thanks to everyone who has helped me!

-Justin.
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Old 12-28-2004, 04:23 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Team Duratrax
I have a brand new engine,that starts and idles for only what 30seconds then conks out,now when i pull the starter the engine wont even pop!

I have fresh batteries in my glow starter and a brand new glow plug any help would be much appreciated
If the glow igniter youre using takes the standard alkaline cells, you`ll be lucky to get enough power from it to be able to get the glow plug hot enough.
I keep a alkaline glow igniter as a spare and even with fresh batteries it cant provide enough power to get the glow plug hot enough........the only way i can get enough power from a alkaline igniter is to use the Duracell batteries, and these only last for a few starts.
Best to go for one of the rechargle NiCd igniters.....they`ll provide the "grunt" you need.
The engine conking out after 30 secs sounds like its just loaded up with fuel from idling......give it a short rev now and then to clear the fuel out.
Cheers
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