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-   -   Anyone "Give Up" on An Engine That Won't Run Right? (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/578484-anyone-give-up-engine-wont-run-right.html)

scary_jerry 12-17-2011 06:29 PM

Jake, great resolution on the photos. With that much detail i'd give Neil at Clockwork Motors a call and ask him to give an assessment. I'm drawn to the 'scuff' on the cylinder wall. Had a cylinder like that after my 2 speed stopped shifting in a main and i was not about to lift off the trigger.

(remember rc a\c at 'riverside raceway',
i ran 3.5K&B tunnel hulls at 'fairmont park'
and actually got to see action at 'thorp raceway'
as a spectator...almost forgot my first rc flight
at 'mile square park'). :cool:

Jake C6R 12-17-2011 06:40 PM


Originally Posted by quadracer111 (Post 10050792)
Damn traxxas 3.3 engines. Such a piss off. Make it half way across the track, flame out. Take it off the track, try to replicate the issue, wont do it, throw it back on the track, flame out.

A picco .26 solved that issue. And when that kicked the bucket I just went brushless.

I agree 100%, mine crapped out after the circlip came loose - Picco .26 red dot in my Revo is working awesome!

But this thread is about O.S. .12TR problem I am having for my onroad car - I put a Picco .12 in it which is running flawlessly but I still want to get the O.S. going if possible, when it ran well it would go like a scalded dawg!

Jake C6R 12-17-2011 06:42 PM


Originally Posted by scary_jerry (Post 10050860)
Jake, great resolution on the photos. With that much detail i'd give Neil at Clockwork Motors a call and ask him to give an assessment. I'm drawn to the 'scuff' on the cylinder wall. Had a cylinder like that after my 2 speed stopped shifting in a main and i was not about to lift off the trigger.

(remember rc a\c at 'riverside raceway',
i ran 3.5K&B tunnel hulls at 'fairmont park'
and actually got to see action at 'thorp raceway'
as a spectator...almost forgot my first rc flight
at 'mile square park'). :cool:

Thanks, Jerry! What did he say about yours? I don't see any scuff, maybe it's the pix because it looks pretty good in there. I even asked my wife to look at it and she said it looks fine so there you go! After all wives know everything!

Jake C6R 12-17-2011 06:49 PM


Originally Posted by fairgo (Post 10050656)
Front bearings in onroad engines do not have an airtight seal. If you get a new bearing wah it out and hold it up to the light, you will see what I mean and the ones with the biggest gaps are the metal sealed.

I don't think I have a big leak but I am out of ideas. If this doesn't work Valk will he be getting an engine for cheap! LOL:nod:

valk 12-18-2011 12:55 PM

no complaints here! i know my motor is leaking like a siv i just cant be bothered to spend money on the nitro car lol.

you could always use the method of checking for vac leaks on 1-1 cars. just get her on a stand running at med throttle and spray some soapy water around the flywheel and all the seals. you should know right away if its a bad enough leak to make it run screwy.

my 12tr has a cracked and chiped out carb seal that definitely doesnt seal properly. my exhaust mani gasket is worn out and ive never taken the carb apart to clean, yet it will idle all day and only sometimes dies on refuel stops. np. i just have my pitman lift the car, rev the piss out of it for a second to build up pressure and let it go.

your motor looks to be in better shape than mine.

scary_jerry 12-18-2011 04:35 PM

Jake, sorry if i wasn't seeing 'scuff'. I had already replaced that fried motor before i found 'Neal' at Clockwork in pursuit of monster mill.

Having wife to support hobby madness is good. I put her down as my 'sponsor' at Las Vegas Grand Prix (3d place A main IGT), but mine couldn't tell 'scuff' from micropolish. tsk tsk

Jake C6R 12-18-2011 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by scary_jerry (Post 10054072)
Jake, sorry if i wasn't seeing 'scuff'. I had already replaced that fried motor before i found 'Neal' at Clockwork in pursuit of monster mill.

Having wife to support hobby madness is good. I put her down as my 'sponsor' at Las Vegas Grand Prix (3d place A main IGT), but mine couldn't tell 'scuff' from micropolish. tsk tsk

Congrats on the 3d place! I am sure it was your wife/sponsor that got you the win! :sweat:

Jake C6R 12-22-2011 04:13 PM

Case is History - Anyone Have One?
 
Problem found. I removed the front bearing and saw a very small hairline crack in the case. So it's history. Just for laughs I removed the rear bearing and it wasn't exactly excellent either.

So now I have all the guts plus new parts on the way and no block. The crank, piston/sleeve, rotary carb, etc are good. Being delivered are a new front bearing, HSN and LSN o-rings and carb gasket.

The question is now try to sell the guts and new parts or try and find a OS .12TR block with at least a good rear bearing? It's not worth the money to replace the rear bearing - too expensive.

el salvador 12-22-2011 05:28 PM

Jake, you could load all the good parts into a TZ block if you had one handy.

Before you found the crack, I was going to suggest checking the Thermo Insulator on the Carb base (OS #21165010),
a common issue. I've had Two TZ's (sold one) and the "Old/TTrusty TR (w/TZ carb)
still runnin strong in the "Clubs RRR Loaner Car" that I own & maintain for the use of recruiting nOObs into Nitro TC Racing................:tire:

Jake C6R 12-22-2011 06:13 PM


Originally Posted by el salvador (Post 10071902)
Jake, you could load all the good parts into a TZ block if you had one handy.

Before you found the crack, I was going to suggest checking the Thermo Insulator on the Carb base (OS #21165010),
a common issue. I've had Two TZ's (sold one) and the "Old/TTrusty TR (w/TZ carb)
still runnin strong in the "Clubs RRR Loaner Car" that I own & maintain for the use of recruiting nOObs into Nitro TC Racing................:tire:

Thanks for that, bro! Good to know everything will fit. Looked on eBay and found a crankcase with bearings for $70 but I am hoping for a cheaper solution. Maybe someone will have a used one in good shape that they want to unload. Especially if I can use the new front bearing I bought.

Are all the .12 TZ models the same as far as the guts?

Roelof 12-22-2011 11:47 PM

Just weld or solder the crack? It is possible with aluminium or a more simple way: use a glue. I have done it in the past with a metal glue.

scary_jerry 12-23-2011 07:17 AM

Jake, good news you found the 'gremlin'.

I like Roelof's take on it...fix it. I'd check with a jeweler to see if they could suggest some repair method. But i would attempt a fix before 'teeing it up' on the back 9...

PINGGGGG>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>(*%:#). :D

Jake C6R 12-23-2011 07:38 AM

Thanks for the suggestion guys! If I can't find a used case Valk wants to take it off my hands as he needs the internals.

As for the case, well let's just say it is not going to survive, it received the brunt of my frustration in my vise....CRUNCHHHHHH LOL

scary_jerry 12-23-2011 08:25 AM

I can relate Jake.....][:(][.......][.][. :ha:

valk 12-23-2011 10:03 AM

Happy to be getting the parts, though too bad you killed the case. I would have jbwelded the thing ad started it up lol


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