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Old 02-24-2005, 12:53 AM   #136
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in what type of track did he race on? technical or high speed track? because my 15fe engine dont have that pickup @ torque.
do you think my engine have problem?
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Old 02-25-2005, 12:46 AM   #137
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Default 15fe

15 FE sure can finish the race of course. Although i have a 12XS that's legal in HPI class, sometimes i got beaten by 15FEs. Nitro engines have that penchant to die when you dont want them to. Sh_t happens, yunno.
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:38 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally posted by KREATOR1
in what type of track did he race on? technical or high speed track? because my 15fe engine dont have that pickup @ torque.
do you think my engine have problem?
The track was fairly technical but with good flow and a 160' straight. He usually got eaten up on the straight since it had a big sweeper at the end. Since it was the rookie class, the guys with the fast motors and 2 speeds usually ended up in the boards or spinning out at the end of the straight. He (my son) just drove cleanly and got into the boards only a couple of times. By the time he'd finish the infield, he would be 1/4 of a lap ahead of the other racers.

Just make sure that you car is rolling freely and the suspension is setup correctly. Do you have a 2 speed? Is it working properly? It might be stuck in 2nd gear. Does your motor have compression? Make sure you check it when its hot. Are you using the stock gearing? Maybe you need to change it. I have found that the stock gearing is good unless your track is very small or very large.
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Old 02-26-2005, 03:35 PM   #139
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Quick question. Building an RS4 3 18SS at the moment, having problems with the throttle / brake linkage. Seems to try to bend the throttle when applying the brake. (The part on the end of standard rotary carb where the linkage slots into, as seen in the image in Roehrig's post) Any thoughts? Is this normal? Will it eventually break?
Seems like plastic/rubber.

Have reduced EPA's etc so the servo isn't moving the motor like before......

Please help ............!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-28-2005, 04:05 PM   #140
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The arm on the rotary carb should flex like that. Seems wrong, but its made to flex. I have a couple of .15FE that are 6 years old and the arm still works fine.
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Old 02-28-2005, 11:39 PM   #141
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Thanks Rapid Boy.

EDIT: Broke pull start. Anyone else with same problems?

Last edited by Zoo Tv; 03-09-2005 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 03-14-2005, 02:24 AM   #142
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Default pull start broken

pull start cords break one way or the other, if you still going to install a pull start try pull 6 inches only in successive fast repetitions (like you're mastur___ting), this is the perfect way to start.

or install the rotostart, it will start in a breeze.
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Old 03-14-2005, 04:38 AM   #143
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Roto Start it is for me - waiting for them to arrive in Australia to suit 18SS engine.
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Old 03-14-2005, 02:18 PM   #144
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whenb I had my fe on my rs4 3 I went through tons of pul starts after I replaced my first one from age. I think they were honestly all defected. i did nothing wrong to break them(never pulled too far) The spring would pop out of the casing even when on the engine.
later
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Old 03-15-2005, 07:10 PM   #145
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Default pull start and roto

the roto start is powered by a 7.2 volts batterry pack which turns the tool rather too fast, the best is to assemble only 5 batteries instead of 6 to lessen the power.

If you cant wait, install the back plate and use a regular cordless drill. Be sure the rotation turns to the left when you're holding it. If it is turning to the right, just connect the black to the red and the red to the black, that is, reverse the polarity. If you have no bit to install on teh drill, just cut off one dog extra or used dogbone. (Some tips can only be found on actual users.)
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Old 03-25-2005, 07:31 AM   #146
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Default Re: rapid roy

Quote:
Originally posted by billysss
thanks, i'll find that out when i get the motor from the shop.

by the way, anybody tried the new rs4 with 18ss motor?
I have! Finally got my RS4 3 18SS running well today! Difficult to really have an unbiased opinion as I have only run 7-8 tanks through it and it is my only car. But personally I find it to have great pull down low and a decent top end. Given today was the first day of actually driving the car (ran 3 tanks at idle to run in), I even noticed the engine loosening up throughout the day.

I find the RS4 18SS a great kit for car park fun. Never raced RC cars and probably won't, so being a relatively simple kit it suits my needs fantastically well. Great servos made a big difference, as did the roto start - foams maybe the single best upgrade to the car.

BTW, anyone know if higher top speeds are available with different gearing?
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Old 03-25-2005, 04:26 PM   #147
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yes you can gear the engine for higher speeds. The red pinions are for high speeds. But if I remember correctly the .18ss comes with them. If so, you can begin to experiment with different tooth spur gears.
Later
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Old 03-26-2005, 07:41 AM   #148
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a friend of mine just got a rs4 3 evo, hes a newby angry for power once he saw that we are all running mtx3, ntc3, and 710s with italian mills, he got himself a good deal for a mega zx12 which will use once he dominates completely his car and setups, besides the rear header, can he use the pilot clutch nut for the ntc3 for this engine and the engine mounts a863?
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Old 03-26-2005, 11:56 AM   #149
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Tallest spurs for top speed are 41/37. You need to fit pinion gears with largest number teeth and spur gears with smallest number teeth to have highest top speed. That said with the 2.57 final gear ratio in the rs4-3 18ss, insatlling an R40 centax clutch would allow you to install a 24 teeth pinion gear for the highest speed an 18ss can reach wich should be at last 70mph!!
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Old 03-27-2005, 02:22 PM   #150
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How can I use a R40 clutch on my SS. Will it bolt right in or does it have to be modded. I straight line parking lot race. No turns. So I would love to get a stronger clutch for top speed runs. IF this works....?
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