onlinegamesnz

Hi, im new to RC Nitro cars and have just purchased my first one, this is also my first post here

I have just bought my first nitro car, and trying to tune it but having trouble? i have taken it in for the hobby shop to run in and tune, they are charging me 60$

Is this easy, or is that a rip off?

Thanks!

Robotech

Why did you start a new topic on this? Did you not look at the thread you started yesterday on this???

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...need-help.html

Probably would be best to go over to the other thread, post what kind of car and engine it is, and ask this question there. Personally, paying someone $60 to break in and tune your engine isn't just a waste of money, but you're doing yourself a great disservice. Nitro engines are not hard to tune and it is something that you NEED to know. Nitro cars are not "set and forget" like electric cars. They require a bit more finness and fine tuning over their lifespan.

onlinegamesnz

Yea cuz i tried to post the first time and it said i need to be approved by moderator to post. So i tried again

onlinegamesnz

hi ive just gone and got the car back, screw paying 60$ and your rightm i need to learn to do it myself.

reading the manual, it really doesnt help much as it makes no sense,

the guy at the hobby shop said to run the engine in properly, run it very rich, with the glow plug heater on the whole time, and with the duel literally driping out the exhaust. is this correct?

also the other problem, is the car wont move, it moves slightly but its like the cintrifical cluth isnt engaging?


any ideas? the car is from GS RACING, and its called a

GS RACING VISION RTR

Please Help i wanna race this thing!

Thanks!

Robotech

Okay, I took a look at your manual and the engine looks like it is supposed to have a slide carb on it. This carb has a low and high speed needle on it. The High Speed Needle (HSN) should be set 2.5 turns out from closed. This means you GENTLY turn the HSN clockwise until it stops. DO NOT TIGHTEN AS YOU CAN DAMAGE THE NEEDLE. Then, turn it counter-clockwise 2 full turns then one-half of a turn. Set the low speed needle so that it is about 0.8mm in from being flush with the end of the carburetor's housing as shown in the manual.

As for break in, there are a number of ways to do it. For me, I start the engine and let it idle through a full tank of fuel. If it is set up properly, you don't need to leave the glow ignitor on it. At 2.5 turns out, the engine should be pretty rich and you will get unburnt oil dripping from the exhaust. When the engine runs out of fuel (And some will say to turn it off before it runs out of fuel because it will go lean when it does...but really it's for such a short period of time it's not going to hurt anything.) let it sit and cool off completely. Then repeat for a second tank of fuel.

On your engine, because it is an RTR, two tanks at idle should be more than enough. For racing engines that have a bit harder sleeve, I'd run another tank at idle.

Once the second tank is done let the engine cool down completely again. For the third and fourth tanks of fuel, you're going to drive the car around but do not go more than half throttle. Also, do not "cruise" around at one throttle setting, you want to keep moving the throttle between idle and 50% the whole tank. Again, let the engine cool down completely after each tank.

That should complete break in. After break in you should change out your glow plug (Probably an OS 8 will work...but double check).

To address the problem of the car not moving, be sure to check that the brake isn't on. With the enigne off, but the radio gear on, you should be able to push the car and have it roll smoothly for a while. If it doesn't, the brake may be on, the wheel's may be too tight and binding against the hub, or something else is binding up the drivetrain.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Don't run the car until have broken in the engine. This usually requires that you start the motor and let it idle for about one to two tanks. The manual should tell you what your high speed and low speed needle settings should be when you do this.

Once you got it broken in, you will have to run it at a rich setting which will make your motor bogg but spew a lot of fuel out the exhaust making a lot of smoke. This is a good thing because you're still breaking in the motor at this point. Do this for another tank or two. After that you can lean your mixture by turning your needle setting clockwise but only a little bit. Think of a clock dial and turn only one hour on the clock dial. Run it some more and gradually turn another hour and so on as you run more tanks of fuel. Eventually you will get to a point where the engine runs fast enough to engage the clutch quickly. Have a temp gauge with you to monitor your temps.

Do you have a 3 shoe clutch with three springs on it? Or do you have a cone shaped clutch bell and clutch shoe with one spring in the middle? Need that information before you can get any help on clutch tuning.

Also what fuel are you using? Make sure you use the fuel recommended by your instruction manual to start. Most likely it will be 20% nitro.

Robotech

His manual.

http://www.gsracing.com.tw/download/...PF(420014).pdf

Shows a three shoe clutch with springs. However, if the car is "moving slightly" sounds to me like the clutch is engaging and there is something else wrong. Best for him to make sure the drivetrain is operating properly. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people burn up their clutches because the brake was on. Best to check the simple stuff first.

onlinegamesnz

Thanks for your help!!

Ill check the brake when i get home

My manual tells me about the different needles for idle RPM and Low end RPM, but doesnt tell me where to find them. There is one big screw on the carby.

Also, how long should i glow the plug for? Im glowing for about 10seconds?

Thanks guys!

Robotech

Look at the link I posted. It shows you, when telling you how to set the low speed needle, a diagram of the carb and where that needle is located. The idle screw on a slide carb is usually on the front of the carb and faces to the end of the carb that doesn't slide in and out. The big screw, that probably has the fuel line connected to it, is the HSN. To help, I cut out the picture and labled the needles and idle screw for you.



As for the glow ignitor, you don't need to worry about how long to leave it on for. In the length of time it takes you to remove your hand from the ignitor when you put it on and grab the pull start handle to try and start the engine the glow plug is already as hot as it's going to get.

onlinegamesnz

Ok thanks so much again for your help cause im getting none from the hobby shop, they expect me to know it all.

The reason i asked about the glow plug is because the engine takes ages to start. Its really easy to pull for the first like 20 pull then it gets really tight, that seems to be when it takes (starts).

Is that normal or will it get better once its run in properly?

Thanks

Robotech

No worries. This is typical when it's new. When you feel it getting hard to start, it's the fuel entering the engine and the piston trying to compress it. Since the piston is still tight this will happen.

onlinegamesnz

Thanks for your help!

i ran the car in today, very rich. There was heaps of fuel comming out the exhast so i know it was very rich. About 3 tanks

Took it out today too, and it went quite well, nice and fast however im not sure if it was shifting to 2nd.

The only thing, when i stopped, the engine was making a funny noise, like a hissing. and slmost a bubling

But it didnt too much hotter then normal?

Thanks!

8thscaleOG

iTrader: (6)

Did you lean the carb after the break in settings?? (Rich to Lean) .

onlinegamesnz

Ok i leaned it a bit, but it kept cutting out, so i richened it a bit and it started? Do you think that coulda damaged the engine?

Also, whats the best way to tune it now thats its run on,

I was thinking let it run and gradually lean it? Cause its still running quite rough.

Thanks again!!

Robotech

If you look at the first thread you started I wrote a long post on how to tune.

One thing I have to tell you is to make sure that the engine is hot before you start to lean it out. When you say it "cut out", how did it cut out? Did it happen when you hit the brakes? Did it drive for a while before it cut out? Did it start right back up? Did it only cut out when you tried to give it full throttle? How much did you turn in the needle?

Glad to see you're sticking with this. Learning to tune a nitro engine CAN be frustrating. Just keep asking questions and stick with it.