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-   -   Rs4 evo… (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/569389-rs4-evo%85.html)

hazeman69 11-17-2011 03:25 PM

Rs4 evo…
 
Car has 2 tanks through it and now won't start, where should I start? Not flooded and changed the plug…thanks for any help

Robotech 11-17-2011 03:37 PM

Compression, Spark, Fuel, Air...one of those four things is missing.

If you're not flooded, are you getting fuel to the engine? Is there fuel in the tank? Can you prime the engine until it floods?

If you've changed glow plugs, have you verified the new plug is good? (I know, the assumption is a new plug should work yet I've seen them be bad out of the package...It happens.)

Have you checked the glow ignitor to make sure it is charged? Have you checked to see if it is making good contact with the glow plug and actually heating it up?

Are any of your head screws loose?

Is your carburetor adjusted right? What happens when you open the throttle up? Does the engine try to start?

Have you tried just loosening the plug slightly and then trying to start the engine? (engine can be flooded slightly so that it won't start but not act flooded...this will help that)

I know these all sound like no brianers, but I don't know what you have checked and what you haven't checked. I've seen guys with years of experiance in nitro engines pull an engine apart just to find out their glow ignitor was dead or there was no fuel in the tank.

xraynt13995 11-17-2011 03:40 PM

Hi make sure glow-ignitor (driver) is charged and mixture setting of the HSN, LSN and idle screw is correct (try flush with edges and 1 turn in on all but idle needle, that needs to be about 1.2mm gap). Many tutorials on You Tube by Alishanmao if you need. Hope this helps =)

hazeman69 11-17-2011 06:05 PM

Checked the plug, fuel is in the tank, glow gun is charged and played with numerous slight turns on the needles, will check more thoroughly in the morning thanks for the answers

hazeman69 11-18-2011 07:33 AM

Got it started, now idles w the glow gun attatched as soon as I take it off it dies…Car will run and drive w the glow gun connected still, when I take it off idles for about 5 sec then dies

hazeman69 11-18-2011 09:51 AM

Car is running just left the glow gun on for a bit but then the car got run over by a car lol… will assess the damages after work

hazeman69 11-19-2011 08:11 AM

chassis is a bit wavy now and gas tank is cracked, should be back up running in a week.. thats all i see for now, what motors do you people throw in these? want some more low end jump off the line, also want some better handling, any suggestions? thanks

Robotech 11-19-2011 09:34 PM

If the engine idles with the glow ignitor on but dies with it off then either you are too rich or your glow plug is bad. A glow plug that seems to be working CAN be bad.

REMEMBER THOUGH, ALWAYS GET YOUR HIGH SPEED NEEDLE ADJUSTED FIRST! Since your low speed needle operates by further restricting the flow from the high speed needle, your low speed needle's setting will be richened or leaned when the high speed needle is richened or leaned.

As for a better engine, what engine do you have in it now? Does it have a low speed needle? (Trying to remember how the Evo's stock motor was set up, I think it does have a low speed needle.)

Chances are, if it does have a low speed needle, your low speed may be out of adjustment...and could be causing your car to die at idle with the glow ignitor off.

Once the car is up and running again, be sure to set the needles to their factory specs. If it is the stock engine, HPI has manuals that will have these settings if you have lost your manuals. Once that is done and the engine is running, set your high speed needle so you're getting good power while still having blue smoke when you're running at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).

Once the High Speed Needle is set, follow this procedure for the low speed needle. Run your car until it is at operating temp and then bring it to a stop next to you. Let it sit there without touching the throttle for thirty seconds. If it dies before the thirty seconds is up, lean the low speed needle slightly, restart the car, and drive it for about thirty seconds doing a number of full throttle passes to clear it out. Then bring it next to you and stop it again and let it sit there for thirty seconds as before.

When you reach the thirty second mark, give it full throttle. The car should launch without much hesitation or bogging. If it dies, repeat the steps mentioned above (lean low speed needle, restart, drive for a bit). If it bogs down and there is a ton of blue smoke out the exhaust, lean the low speed needle and then drive the car for another thirty seconds doing some full throttle passes. After you have driven it hard for thirty seconds, bring it back next to you and repeat the process. Do so until the car accelerates strongly after having it sit at an idle for thirty seconds.

Do these things before swapping out engines. IF the enigne doesn't have a low speed needle, then upgrading the engine would be the best (Possibly only) way to get more low end response.

For handling, what tires are you running? What inserts? What springs? What shock oil? If you want a better understanding of how to improve your car's handling, look in HPI's FAQ. There they have a Tuning Guide that breaks down many tuning options, how big of an effect they have, and how and when to change them. That said, tires and inserts are about 80% of your handling equasion.

hazeman69 11-21-2011 06:32 AM

damn good shit...that tuning thing u just explained is exactly what i did, the motor does have a low speed needle and i got it running pretty good, just feel like i need more off the line, top speed is plenty, im running everything bone stock out of the box

Robotech 11-21-2011 09:07 AM

You may want to try an engine with a slide carb as I always felt a rotary carbed engine felt like it lagged a little. Slide carbs tend to feel a bit more responsive to me in the low end.


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