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Old 11-20-2004, 05:28 PM   #1
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Default team associated ntc3 gears melted , 1 day old

i didnt want to make a new thread so just ignore the 1st responce about the batteries. . . . well heres the story , ive only had the car for one day , im just breaking it in today. i put it on a bucket and let it idle w/ a fan placed on it. it idled through about 1- 3/4 tanks of gas with a 20 min. break in the middle. i come back out side and while its idleing i gave it a small amount of gas , and the tires didnt spin at all the gears just stayed still while the engine revved to high hell. so i shut it off and looked at everything and noticed about 5 teeth on the small gear totally melted , and about 15 on the big gear , . . but its only one day old , anyone know if AE will send replacement gears or if anyone sells metal gears so they wont melt????

Last edited by nitroRCracer69; 11-21-2004 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 11-20-2004, 10:25 PM   #2
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I used one of the zip ties that was in the instruction package to secure the batteries. Put the zip tie in the opening then put the batteries in, zip tight around the top plate. Just tuck the extra wire around the batteries. I never did figure out what that tape was for either.
Hope this helps.
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Old 12-09-2004, 03:30 AM   #3
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I have one of these too, the tape is for the reciever, and is supposed to be placed under the reciever to stick it down inside the reciever box

as for melting gears, I have no idea man, maybe your brake was set miles too tight, maybe there is something wrong with the clutch and/or 2 speed, sometimes stuff is just plain faulty.

on another note I removed the carb restrictor from my ae .15 engine (the stock one) and have had *major* problems getting it to run, I've checked the usual suspects, glo plugs glo igniter idle settings etc etc the biatch just refuses to go, and as you could imagine, it is giving me the shits I posted a thread asking for help, which is now quite old and it hasnt been responded to which leads me to believe that this engine isnt used much.
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Old 12-09-2004, 08:43 PM   #4
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Default So whats the consensus?

I was just reading all of you guys posts, planned on getting an RTR Plus next week as an Xmas gift to myself. What should i do? Get an RTR Plus or an HPI RS4 3 SS? Is everyone having problems with the .15 engine or is it just when you take the restricto off?
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Old 12-10-2004, 07:56 PM   #5
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badKarma : this car/engine combination is great, it works well usually and the problems I am experiencing with my engine are due to me not fully understanding how to tune the engine, (I'm learning too ) I am positive somebody with more tuning experience than I wouldnt be having a problem, this car is the shit (ntc3 rtr +) which I specially imported from the us, because I have a dislike for belt-drives, which all the onroad cars available here that I have seen are. This car isn't very n00b friendly tho, and can leave you scratching your head as to why it isnt driving well (in reference to chassis setup) I have had quite a bit of experience with chassis tuning on an electric tourer so I can tune the chassis and battle with the engine

In finishing this car overall is a really great package but as with all rc vehicles has its own unique set of shall we say "quibbles"
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Old 12-10-2004, 09:17 PM   #6
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I went with the TC3 PLus too. I looked at the HPI car while deciding what to get. This is my first RC car so I had no previous experience. I had to rely on info I found on the web and some advice from the local hobby shop guy. Of course you know what they say about opinions right? I haven't regreted my decision at all. I think I ran the motor in correctly, kinda combined most of the different break in procedures. After breaking in and running for a few more times took out the restrictor too and have had no problems at all. Just running it a little richer made it work for me.
I haven't gotten into trying to make chassis changes too much. I did have to raise the ride height some since I kept bottoming out in the parking lot where I run the most.
If I had to do it all over again I would probably come to the same decision and buy the TC3 Plus again.
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Old 12-10-2004, 09:35 PM   #7
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SteveB : If I were you I would check the track width and the camber on the front, and caster and camber on the rear (page 22 of manual) the reason for this is my car (at factory settings) ran weird (would turn left would slide out when turn right) and I checked the settings and discovered that the caster and camber was spot on factory settings on one side and out by over a degree on the other , causing an uneven driving experience
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Old 12-10-2004, 10:09 PM   #8
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Wayne,
I've noticed something similar to that but thought it was in the radio control. I adjusted the center point and it seemed to take care of the problem but I'll try your suggestion too, thanks.
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Old 12-14-2004, 04:42 PM   #9
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Default Hopups

What are the first hop ups to purchase if you wanna get your ride ready to race? And, what modifications have to be made in order to drop in a rear exhaust engine?
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Old 12-14-2004, 06:57 PM   #10
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the ntc3 is a great car but has some flaws the dif cases are weak and the front shock tower all can be fixed with 3 long 1 1/4 440 hex head and some washers with a nut under the tower take out the middle diff case hex and put a washer on the 440 hex thur the tower and a nut under it and run the 440 down thur the dif case to secure

if you take out the restrictor it is harder to tune but way faster you will have to richen the motor you allowed more air in

rear exhust will require non pull start motor mounts,fly wheel,starter box and motor and exhust i think the stock ntc3 exhust is the best not the daul chamber
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Old 12-14-2004, 08:17 PM   #11
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Default Re: Hopups

Quote:
Originally posted by badKarma
What are the first hop ups to purchase if you wanna get your ride ready to race? And, what modifications have to be made in order to drop in a rear exhaust engine?
Mods I`d suggest if youre planning on racing the NTC3 are-

1. The Fix, as suggested in a previous post (this will prevent the front shock tower from stripping out the diff case). Another way to bypass this is to fit the K-Factory Aluminium shock mount with carbon tower (part # 1243)
2. The fuel tank is vulnerable to having the pipe shatter it in the event of a side-impact. 3-Racing make a side-chassis brace (part # NTC 3006) that will help protect the fuel tank.
3. Fit the K-Factory aluminium input shaft cups (especially the one at the front of the drive shaft)....I`ve found the plastic ones just havent lasted for me.
I`m not 100% sure what you`ll need to fit a rear exhaust engine, but you`ll at least a new header and pipe, engine mounts, starter box for rear exhaust motor.....
Cheers
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:51 AM   #12
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Default Re: Re: Hopups

Quote:
Originally posted by AndyT
Mods I`d suggest if youre planning on racing the NTC3 are-

1. The Fix, as suggested in a previous post (this will prevent the front shock tower from stripping out the diff case). Another way to bypass this is to fit the K-Factory Aluminium shock mount with carbon tower (part # 1243)
2. The fuel tank is vulnerable to having the pipe shatter it in the event of a side-impact. 3-Racing make a side-chassis brace (part # NTC 3006) that will help protect the fuel tank.
3. Fit the K-Factory aluminium input shaft cups (especially the one at the front of the drive shaft)....I`ve found the plastic ones just havent lasted for me.
I`m not 100% sure what you`ll need to fit a rear exhaust engine, but you`ll at least a new header and pipe, engine mounts, starter box for rear exhaust motor.....
Cheers
I have been suggesting the fix everywhere man
You just plain cant race a ntc3 without it, unless you are godlike and never hit anything
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:46 PM   #13
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Default Restrictor?

what is the intended purpose for the plastic restrictor? where can I purchase K-Factory Parts for the NTC3? what do yall think about the .12 Sirio EVO for the NTC3 this racing season?
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Old 12-17-2004, 12:28 AM   #14
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Default Re: Restrictor?

Quote:
Originally posted by badKarma
what is the intended purpose for the plastic restrictor? where can I purchase K-Factory Parts for the NTC3? what do yall think about the .12 Sirio EVO for the NTC3 this racing season?
I`ve purchased K-factory parts from (www.rcmart.com) and theyve taken around a week to get from Hong Kong to here in Australia, their prices are quite good.
Theres also lots of other retailers selling K-factory parts online........K-factory have their own website as well....I think from memory the address is www.kfactoryracing.com
Cheers
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