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Old 09-27-2011, 09:16 PM   #1
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Default Modern NTC3 Setup

I know allot of people recommend getting a newer car, but thats not an option for me at the moment. So i was wondering if anyone has any setups for parking lots that has done well for their NTC3. From engine/exhaust, shocks, tires ect.

Mines essentially bone stock and running strong, but i'm looking for an edge over my brother!

Thanks for any suggestions!
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:53 PM   #2
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Ive tried to run barry bakers 2005 setup as best as possible but we run a small tight track and im not gonna lie, had some difficulties with the car hooking up in the ass end. all i can say is be ready to invest in tires..

FRONT
Upper shock mount hole: Inner
Lower shock mount hole: Inner
Camber link position: Inner
Front Spring: Copper
Preload: 4mm
Oil: 50wt
Droop: 3mm
ARB: Blade 45
Transmission: Balldif, 1/3 out
Camber: 2
Toe: 0.5 out
Tire: Jaco 38

Rear
Upper shock mount hole: Inner
Lower shock mount hole: upper
Camber link position: middle *v2*
Rear Spring: Gold
Preload: 5mm
Droop: 4mm
ARB: none
Transmission: Balldif, 1/4 out
Camber: 2
Total Toe: 3 in
Tire: Jaco 35

I actually have better luck with it on rubber tires than foam but havent had a chance to run it on prepped sugar water just yet. in the dry it seems to hook up pretty well on rubber. on foam it just peels out a ton and melts the rear tires ha. I might go to stiffer rear spring, maybe red.

we can be in this together ha. im racing nt1's and 720's mostly. i dont expect to win i just wanna be able to keep up =)
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:18 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ringo3632 View Post
I know allot of people recommend getting a newer car, but thats not an option for me at the moment. So i was wondering if anyone has any setups for parking lots that has done well for their NTC3. From engine/exhaust, shocks, tires ect.

Mines essentially bone stock and running strong, but i'm looking for an edge over my brother!

Thanks for any suggestions!

I still run my Nitro TC3 occasionally..

http://fastharry.com/?p=358



I have owned the car since it first came out..and tried all the baker setups and everything else...


I always end up going back to the baseline setup for rubber or foam tires...One of the things I do change is the diff settings..I run the rear diffs a little looser than the manual states...


Also, I run 50 weight oil (40 if the track is curvy) and keep the ride height a shade lower in front...

With all that being said, The best way to get faster than your brother is practice...


Try setting up 3 cones about 25 feet apart, each. Run figure 8's and do it from all directions...sideview, behind the cones, etc...Get really familiar with the car..like it is one with you...
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:19 AM   #4
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What protoform body are you using valk ? What engine/clutch combo ?
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:48 AM   #5
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I believe that to run foam , the ntc3 needs to be run stiffer springs, like purple fronts and red rears with less droop(2mm all around). A front spool with lcd(#losa3344) drives also will help coming out of turns, but you will need one of the new protoform bodies(R5N/P37/P56) to make it all work .....
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:33 AM   #6
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for me, part of the point of getting the ntc3 was to not spend any money on it. those lcds are pretty expensive for a car that can be replaced as a whole for $100 lol.

i run a protoform p37n body with os 12TR. cold plug, 20% nitro. running the 3 shoe clutch with copper springs. our track is too small to really use a spool on this car. i tried it and it was tougher to drive. just have to get the dif setting right and learn to drive the car smooth.
ill try less droop/stiffer suspension, though im worried that making it a 2kg pancar might be bad on the parking lot ha.
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:22 AM   #7
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If it is a bashing car there is no need for a P37 body or anything else really ! I was under the impression that a minimum of effort was being made to get the ntc3 running decently .......lol... I am serious about running the car, and don't do things halfway !!!!!!!!!! You guys should change the thread to " not too interested in running the ntc3 " !!!!!
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:12 AM   #8
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Dont get me wrong. I race competitively, we just dont have a perm facility.
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:48 PM   #9
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I want to give the newbie here advice that will hopefully put the ntc3 in the Amain, whatever the cost . He will decide how far he wants to go with the car !!!! I am pretty sure others have already tried to discourage him as much as they've tried to discourage me !
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:12 PM   #10
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last time i tried running purple/red the car felt like it was skidding around a lot. though now that ive figured out the rest of the chassis setup i might give it another go.
i ran it yesterday with foams worn down a bit, added 2mm preload f/r and notice quite a difference in the rear bite. the car tracks straight and true when you pin it and is quite stable around sweepers ect. just learning how to feather the throttle to get it through corners better.

i wish there was some kind of center line on the chassis you could use to gauge the f/r track though. i have to guess with my caliper setting the pillow gap.which is less than scientific on an asymetric chassis.
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:11 PM   #11
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Did you change your tires to a harder shore like 40shore after changing the springs ? Barry Baker and Mark Pavidis used 40+shore in their setup. No 35shore tires ever ! What is the weight of the car ? Most new cars run at 1660grams at club meets, and it will be impossible to keep up if you're not around the same weight....... Also generally, the heavier the car, the harder the tires should be .
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
last time i tried running purple/red the car felt like it was skidding around a lot. though now that ive figured out the rest of the chassis setup i might give it another go.
i ran it yesterday with foams worn down a bit, added 2mm preload f/r and notice quite a difference in the rear bite. the car tracks straight and true when you pin it and is quite stable around sweepers ect. just learning how to feather the throttle to get it through corners better.

i wish there was some kind of center line on the chassis you could use to gauge the f/r track though. i have to guess with my caliper setting the pillow gap.which is less than scientific on an asymetric chassis.
The arms are not asymetric, just set the gap measuring from the arm to the knuckel, thats pretty acccurate.
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:50 PM   #13
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i haven't weighed the car but it doesn't feel that much heavier than my electric rtr so id guess around 1700grams. don't have an electronic scale on hand.
keeping up isn't the problem. on our track my car with a 12TR pulls just as hard out of corners and down the straight as any of the newer cars, just doesn't rev as high as fast or sound as mean.

running 38f/35r. i might try higher shore in my next tire order but that wont be until next year. you think i should run 40 in the rear and higher up front?

Im mostly going on info from club guys who used to run it with success. car is plenty fast, just need to work on its corner speed.
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Old 10-01-2011, 02:20 AM   #14
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I think 40R/38F might be a better bet with 4.5mm ride height, and 2mm droop . If the rear feels a little loose, put one 38 rear tire on the battery side of the car . Do you sauce your tires ? If not , sauce only the tires that need more grip !!! Also, are you using Nimh or Lipo ?
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Old 10-01-2011, 06:53 PM   #15
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We dont run sauce for nitro just worldgt. We blow the lot and spray down sugar water which is nice and sticky but makes it very hard to practice and setup after track teardown.

So everything i accomplish right now might change on raceday ha. Running nimh atm but might get a lipo or life next year. Need to find a reg for lipo though.

Im still noob though getting more accurate with setup and alignment stuff. Wont really be able to add more until next outdoor season.
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