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Old 08-28-2005, 04:23 AM   #1381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
so the flywheel will always move a tiny bit?

the centax spins freely that I know, Im gonan try it tomorrow
Yes it does move outwards a tinny winnie bit... for mine if i put 2 more shims to the existing 1 at the end, it will be forever engaged. so just 1 is enough...
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Old 08-28-2005, 04:33 AM   #1382
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Originally Posted by xrcbuggy
Hi guys, I think I am ready to get this car, but I have some questions. Does the new kit comes with the new streering or should I order the new streering #1480? What color clutch spring do I get with kit? What other necessary parts do I need to make it race worthy?
Thanks in advance for your input.
I think most would vote for the RED spring.

From what WAD said earlier, he recommend the:

K1471 - rear belt tensioner
K1473 - rear shock tower stiffener
K1495 - rear belt (low friction black)

for me i would recommend getting the K-factory reinforced front and back arms as backup, cos to me the stock plastic arms seem rather brittle...they wont bend... they will crack.

or better yet if u are willing to spend, u could get the GPM metal ones from rcmart.com:
GPM (#G4022) Alloy R. Knuckle Arm w/Del. Screws Set (BU) For G4
GPM (#G4054) Alloy F. Upper Arm w/Collars (BU) For G4
GPM (#G4055) Alloy F.Lower Arm W/Collars For G4
GPM (#G4056) Alloy R. Lower Arm w/Collars (BU) For G4
OOo and e front knuckle arm, but its not listed on the site... maybe out of stock...
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Old 08-28-2005, 08:59 AM   #1383
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I can't speak for anyone else, but the I've taken some pretty solid hits with this car and the arms are the least of your worries. It comes with the steering system.
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Old 08-28-2005, 10:46 AM   #1384
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hey guys my mongoose blew up....

I was running it the clutch came loose and one of the shoes was sent flying and it broke the aluminum side plate in two....


$45 in damage in 15min


now the plates ai found

but whats the difference between the K1410-1 and K1410-2 which is the updated set
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Old 08-28-2005, 02:07 PM   #1385
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so let me get this straight, the red spring with brass inserts will not work right on dry surfaces?


because all I am getting is bogging and stalling and can't get the engine to run right, should I buy yhe orange spring and run with no inserts
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Old 08-28-2005, 03:05 PM   #1386
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Orange or Yellow spring without inserts is the way to go in dry conditions, i do only use the inserts and the red spring in wet conditions..
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Old 08-28-2005, 03:16 PM   #1387
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do I need the UFO clutch?

I havent gotten this car running right yet and I hope I dont need to dump $112 to get the car running.

i also have another question

there is a knob part number K1406 how do I adjust it its in the front near the lower arm, the manual says 1mm but the screw is so long at 1mm it will wiggle out.
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Old 08-28-2005, 06:10 PM   #1388
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Which clutch do you have now? There was an issue with the shoes binding up against the flywheel, is that the problem your having?
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Old 08-28-2005, 06:24 PM   #1389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
hey guys my mongoose blew up....

I was running it the clutch came loose and one of the shoes was sent flying and it broke the aluminum side plate in two....


$45 in damage in 15min


now the plates ai found

but whats the difference between the K1410-1 and K1410-2 which is the updated set
K1410-2 comes with the new larger plate. If the 3 shoe is flying maybe you have too much of endplay. Try the yellow spring, with 0.5mm tension and 0.3-0.4 of endplay. I'm pretty sure this is a good starting point
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:12 PM   #1390
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I have the K1410 clutch

the the newest one on the RD Mongoose.

and I was planning buying the orange spring, is that good?


also as a side note I have two other questions.

1) Why doesnt my clutch bell have a hole so I can tune the spring?

2) Is there suposed to be some sort of nylon washer between the pivot ball and pivot nut?
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:19 PM   #1391
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Okay guys, I have a parts need.

My worst fear with this car came true when I hit a miss placed board and bent the stub axle on one of my front universals.

Now is there a part # somewhere that will allow my to simply replace this portion of the universal? Or am I stuck having to buy a whole new set?

I know RDLogics doesn't list everything on their site, so is it possible they carry seperate parts for the universals...or is there a Kyosho V1 part that will fit the bill?

Help me out here, $42 for a complete set of universals everytime you damage one piece of a REBUILDABLE unit, doesn't sound like something a good company does to its customers.

So tell me I'm missing a part number somewhere...
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:28 PM   #1392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
1) Why doesnt my clutch bell have a hole so I can tune the spring?

2) Is there suposed to be some sort of nylon washer between the pivot ball and pivot nut?
1. I asked the same question when I got mine. Seems like an odd oversite to make for an externally adjustable clutch. Seems even odder that they have decided not to correct the issue. I tried putting a hole in there myself, but that dang clutch bell is hard and slippery (wait...that didn't sound right ) It seems for now at least that pulling off the clutch bell is something we all have to deal with.

2. Some company's cars used the nylon washer, some don't. I haven't noticed a big difference either way to tell you the truth. If anything, the setup without the washer seems smoother.
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:37 PM   #1393
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darkseid, get the part number from your manual and email rd logics, they have 99.9% of the parts, they just dont list them for some weird reason.


and as for the clutchbell
\dont try drilling it its hardened coated metal, we were drilling it with a diamond bit at 12K rpms and it didnt even scratch the damn thing.


Im gonna email RD tomorrow to see if they sell just the clutch housing with the hole by itself and how much it is ( I have found one with a hole for $22, so rd cant be too much more).
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:50 PM   #1394
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I have soo many questions about this car, its so new to me.

like

1) How do I adjust the height on this car? In the front and rear? is it all in the drool and shocks?

2) Are the front shocks suposed to be stiffer then the rear?

3) should I take out the brass flyweights in the clutch and run with a orange spring and no weights?
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Old 08-28-2005, 08:04 PM   #1395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
I have the K1410 clutch

the the newest one on the RD Mongoose.

and I was planning buying the orange spring, is that good?


also as a side note I have two other questions.

1) Why doesnt my clutch bell have a hole so I can tune the spring?

2) Is there suposed to be some sort of nylon washer between the pivot ball and pivot nut?
Go to yellow spring if the track has enough traction. For the clutch bell hole, I never tune the nut that way. I always take off the engine first for perfect measurement all the time.

Here's the part number for the pivot teflon washer : K1449 G4 Alu Piv Ball Nut&Tefl Wsh(8)
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