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Old 08-25-2005, 05:01 PM   #1351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
You are from Singapore? I think Rotor hobby carries almost all parts in stock. Correct?
Rotor is not cheap... online seems generally cheaper even after freight... furthermore, they don seem interested in getting the stuff i want... i.e. the rear shock tower....

+ their stocks are all VERY old...
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Old 08-25-2005, 07:46 PM   #1352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorman
clutch spring is to soft go to orange. Just do it!
I've heard people saying this several times.

First-What's so wrong with the kit clutch spring. I did notice that it was much softer than the kit spring on my R40, but it seems to work fine. I've had some problems with my engine being a little too powerful on the low end and engaging a little too hard, so I guess the softer, smoother engagement of the kit spring seems perfect to me.

Second-If the kit spring is so bad, why don't they change it?
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:07 PM   #1353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
I've heard people saying this several times.

First-What's so wrong with the kit clutch spring. I did notice that it was much softer than the kit spring on my R40, but it seems to work fine. I've had some problems with my engine being a little too powerful on the low end and engaging a little too hard, so I guess the softer, smoother engagement of the kit spring seems perfect to me.

Second-If the kit spring is so bad, why don't they change it?
The kit spring was desiigned to be used with rubber tires. Every clutch on the market has alternate springs for different track conditions. The orange spring is good 90 percent of the time in my opinion. If the track is very lo-bit the red spring is fine. If the track has off the hook traction the yellow spring can be used. Clutch setup is a science all to itself and really comes down to driving style and personal preference.

The clutch spring will be changed in future kits. (i would bank on that).
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:39 PM   #1354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon
Rotor is not cheap... online seems generally cheaper even after freight... furthermore, they don seem interested in getting the stuff i want... i.e. the rear shock tower....

+ their stocks are all VERY old...
yes their stocks are very old. I used to order from them for my shop, but later they never updated their stock list so I went to other dealer
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:47 PM   #1355
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but is it the spring that is making my engine bogs so much? or is it a rich LSN?
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Old 08-25-2005, 09:44 PM   #1356
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as long as there will be future kits im happy more gooses more gooses more gooses
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Old 08-25-2005, 10:52 PM   #1357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
but is it the spring that is making my engine bogs so much? or is it a rich LSN?
Just tight the spring until it doesn't engage, then loose it 1/2 turn
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Old 08-25-2005, 11:54 PM   #1358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
yes their stocks are very old. I used to order from them for my shop, but later they never updated their stock list so I went to other dealer
Other dealer? is there another in sg?
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:02 AM   #1359
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Rotor do order new parts from us. Please check again. Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:14 AM   #1360
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http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...=1#post1777773

Guys... me G4 needs help desperately... me on the verge of crying.... i am stressed senseless....
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:31 PM   #1361
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i fixed it

it doesnt bog I had to richen the needles a bit
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:24 PM   #1362
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alright i am having the same problem

I took a pic of my centax spring and idle gap to see if u guys think something is off.








should the centax be tightened more?
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:00 PM   #1363
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Is that a NOVAROSSI carb?
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:14 PM   #1364
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Yes, it is. I saw your previous post.
Nothing wrong with the clutch. Your top neddle is way too lean, try this.
Close the bottom neddle completely, then open it 3 1/2 turns.
Close the top neddle and then open it 6 turns. Try to start the engine and go full throutle. If the motor doesn't want to start or flame out when you try to go full throutle then start leaning it 1/4 turn at the time (top neddle only). When the engine starts and you go full throutle it will be way too rich. Start leaning it out until you heard a clear sound from the engine. You may want to lean the bottom neddle but no more than 1/2 turn. Hope this help
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:19 PM   #1365
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yeah its a novarossi carb cause its a novarossi engine



it hauls ass when its not acting up, I need to get it tuned tough
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