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Old 07-31-2005, 08:33 PM   #1006
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fordman,

1. u probably have to shape part of the ball cup, that's what i did. without doing so, it won't fit

2. the carbon plate that u mention is probably the plate to hold the receiver down. kinda dodgy design but it works.
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Old 07-31-2005, 09:25 PM   #1007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
Well my Mongoose is on the way to me.

I must admit that I'm more than a little nervous about this fuel tank thing. I see some people talking about going through several before getting one that doesn't leak. I simply can't understand why a high end kit such as this (on about its 3rd generation G4, G4 evo, Mongoose) can't have what most budget RTR nitro kits have...a working fuel tank.(full 75cc and leak proof)

Other than that, I'm pretty excited and ready to get building.

Mine have about 4 litters of fuel and does not have a single leak ... one friend today was testing his G4 and crashed a lot of times, not a single drop of fuel outside the tank ...
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Old 07-31-2005, 09:41 PM   #1008
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Carbon plate goes under receiver, screwed to chassis using the 2 blue washers and 2 screws.

Thumb Tack things are for checking balance, check chassis, you will see the points to rest on the tacks.

Don't think the kit comes with a horn for Hitec, could be wrong though... Anyways using the spacers to adjust depth of the servo until link is parallel to servo when connected at other end.

My tank doesn't leak. Don't forget ppl rarely post anything qualitative unless its to whine or complain.
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Old 07-31-2005, 11:19 PM   #1009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
Well my Mongoose is on the way to me.

I must admit that I'm more than a little nervous about this fuel tank thing. I see some people talking about going through several before getting one that doesn't leak. I simply can't understand why a high end kit such as this (on about its 3rd generation G4, G4 evo, Mongoose) can't have what most budget RTR nitro kits have...a working fuel tank.(full 75cc and leak proof)

Other than that, I'm pretty excited and ready to get building.
I did build more than 6 kits already, never heard about a leak
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Old 08-01-2005, 12:26 AM   #1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartynD
...
Thumb Tack things are for checking balance, check chassis, you will see the points to rest on the tacks.
say .. u have pics of this?
don't recall reading about it in the manual.
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:00 AM   #1011
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Default GRRRRRRR!!

You know I like this car/s but it's driving me nuts. I upgraded the EVO to the Mongoose. I bring two Mongooses <? spelling LOL to the track As I think I have the tank thing handled . I was breaking in a engine the first two qualifiers and It did pretty good with the throttle toped at 60-70 % The third qualifer I switched engines so I could have some fun . Half way threw I knew it was getting hot so I backed off a little to cool it Then the new servo bolted on me (PDS-949 ICS) So as I'm replacing it for the main I once again saw where the fuel was leaking again (this tank I used my 710 seal) *&(&*%(^$ so I used the other Mongoose for the main . AFTER that car flamed out we got it running again and boom I lose another throttle servo (same one in both cars) Strange but I don't know If I can blame the car for the servos but that car woulden't of made it to the end after the pitstop because It leaked . When I get a little time I was going to make some aluminum gas caps but haven' had the time SOOOO please who ever told the RC racing god that I was doing his daughter fess up LOL OK done venting
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:56 AM   #1012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
Hi Guys,

Just been looking at specs etc on the Mongoose vs the Evo 2 & 3 from The-Border...

Following are the specs on the mongoose, from what i can gather the "Goose" has a different 2 speed?

Evo 2/3: C/fibre side brace, different chassis??? teflon pistons

New Features:
Push Type Cutch Set with new K1410-1 Clutch Update Set for better punch
K1480 Swing Rack Steering for increased stability & resolving the belt-rubbing issue
2 Speed Shaft for higher top speed & better acceleration (502200)
K1487 3mm 7075 Aluminum Chassis
K1481 Steering Block for improved steering
K1490 G4 S-class Hard Coated Aluminum Light 19T Clutch Gear
G4 S-class 2 Speed 2nd Spur Gear 46T (502252)
G4 S-class Blue Aluminum Side Plate (pair) (502254)
G4 S-class 2 Speed Housing & Nut (with bearing) (502250)
Front One-Way
Carbon Radio Plate
K1406 Front Anti-Roll Bar & Mount
K1407 Rear Anti-Roll Bar & Mount
CVD (2 pcs) & Drive Shaft (2pcs)

K1418 Aluminum Wheel Adapter

Does anybody know excatly???? I look forward to hearing from someone shortly.

Edit:

I am reluctant to deal with the-border as i have had bad experience in the past, the RDLogics distrib. in Australia is great to deal with


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No replies

Just following on, what are the S-Class gears about? Is it that they are 0.8 pitch? Any why when you use these gears do you need to change the side plate, does thise mean you can't use K1439-1??? I look forward to hearing some replies?

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Old 08-01-2005, 07:24 AM   #1013
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Motorman

Will you have RDLogics stuff to sell at the GLC, ie. pipes, parts for the mongoose? If not do you know if Halo carries RDLogics?
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:06 AM   #1014
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Hi guys,


Here are a couple of videos of my G4 ... my track mounted a basic straight/chicane/straight layout so i tested my G4 + STS Engine ...

I had a few interferences this weekend on the track and i forgot the failsafe on my other car at home, so i just can practice from the track (if i go to the pilot-tower i get interference) ... all my other crystals were at home too so ... at least i got track time hehehehehe ...

The car its a Team Magic G4 Evo and the engine its a STS D3R "AFM" Modified + STS Inline pipe ...

http://www.rcpics.net/img/62054

http://www.rcpics.net/img/62056

http://www.rcpics.net/img/62057



ps : - We run rubber tires.

ps2 : - You need DivX codecs to see the videos.


cya !


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Old 08-01-2005, 09:44 AM   #1015
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Default Fuel tank...

Well maybe this fuel tank thing is an old issue then. I read back through the entire thread and it seemed to come up quite often.

But as of late, most people seem to be having no problems. So that sounds cool!

All I have to do now is order my new pipe and head out to Wal*Mart to buy the AAA rechargables for my new receiver pack. I looked at the prebuilt ones by various companies, but across the board it just plain cheaper to build my own.
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:03 AM   #1016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
All I have to do now is order my new pipe and head out to Wal*Mart to buy the AAA rechargables for my new receiver pack. I looked at the prebuilt ones by various companies, but across the board it just plain cheaper to build my own.

Try to get SONY's AAA ones ... i got 5 of 1.100 mah, built a pack with them and they are working great ...


good luck


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Old 08-01-2005, 10:14 AM   #1017
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Thanks for the help guys!!
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:25 AM   #1018
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hey fordman500 its all about the mongoose now
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:29 AM   #1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goosein LV
hey fordman500 its all about the mongoose now
You're killin' me William!!!

Im glad you finally saw the light and dumped that R40.Im just finishing mine right now and so far it looks like an awesome car.I cant wait to run it.

Im going to try to make it to Revelation on the 13th for the Rex race.I dont think ill be runnin' but maybe I can help you out a bit and pick youre brain on some setup!!You're going to be there right???Anyone else from Vegas comin' down??
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Old 08-01-2005, 11:03 AM   #1020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
No replies

Just following on, what are the S-Class gears about? Is it that they are 0.8 pitch? Any why when you use these gears do you need to change the side plate, does thise mean you can't use K1439-1??? I look forward to hearing some replies?

BB
The S-Class gears are just new gears with different toothcount. It may be more differences though, i'm not sure
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