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Old 07-09-2005, 02:02 PM   #811
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No blue on the optional steering rack...
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Old 07-09-2005, 03:36 PM   #812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 710baby
It will have to be done at the track I will be there on thursday
I figured! I was just trying to save some setup time.
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Old 07-09-2005, 09:39 PM   #813
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Setup

I run on a fairly high traction, medium bumpy long track, and after consultation with a prominent british driver that was over here on holidays, I have started testing the following setup theory for the G4/Mongoose.

I am now using very light shocks and springs to counteract the bumps, and then using the swaybars to counteract the body roll.

I am using 30 weight oil all round with the 4 hole optional pistons in the rear and the 3 hole optional pistons in the front with associated blue springs in front and reds at the rear.

This gives the car a very very soft feel on the bench, but by running the rear sway bar at 45 degrees (/) and the front at 90 degrees (|) the car is very well balance through the turns and is not sluggish on the transition left to right.

I tested these settings yesterday at our track and was very happy with the high speed turn in rear grip, and the overall high and low speed traction was excellent. I also found that tire wear was reduced since the car isn't sliding as much as it was before.

Anyhow, just thought I'd share and see if anyone else is willing to try it on their tracks and relate the feedback.

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Old 07-09-2005, 10:07 PM   #814
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ZOOM,

I ran on a track last week that was similar to what you described. I made the same setup changes you made plus some.

If you find you don't have enough turn-in try moving the rear inner camber link to the upper position.

I also raised the ride height to 7mm in the rear and 6.5mm in the front to prevent the bumps from upsetting the car too much.
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Old 07-10-2005, 01:24 PM   #815
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Default Diffs... Spools... One ways... ??

Ok...

Currently have the Mongoose, box stock (well its almost assembled...)

It has a one way, with a gear diff in the rear. I notice there are ball diffs, and spools available..

This is my first nitro, previously I was running an XRay FK'05 with a ball diff in back a one-way in front, however.. never had to use any brakes (cept in emergencies)

What are the preferred diff/spool/1-way arrangements for the Mongoose on fairly hi traction medium sized track?

Thinking of buying a spool for the front end.. but I have noticed K-factory sells a spool for the rear...
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Old 07-11-2005, 06:18 AM   #816
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Hi Martyn,
For most tracks you will use a one-way up front and a differential in the rear. I found it extremely rare that I ever needed a spool up front. The only time that a spool up front would come in handy is when the traction becomes so high that your fighting traction rolling problems that can't be controlled by running 45 shore tires.


I would consider two options for the future. A front differential, and an extra rear diff. A front diff comes in handy in really small tight tracks where you need brakes for better turn-in. I would have two rear diffs with a light diff fluid say a mugen 7,000 weight and a diff with 10,000 or higher. The lighter rear diff fluid will give the car more turnin for medium to low bite tracks, and the heavier diff fluid will work on really high bite tracks. You will give up a little turn-in with the heavier rear diff fluid, but will gain on acceleration out of the corners. For the time being the kit set-up works great, until you get a real feel for the car.
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:38 PM   #817
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I always run One-way up front with Kyosho TCD/LSD gear diff (only the gears are Kyosho, the case and pulley is standard, all Kyosho fits too though) in rear filled with 50'000 oil. The TCD diff has a different "gear ratio" than the standard and gives a little more turn-in and improved rear-end stability under acceleration.
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Old 07-11-2005, 05:22 PM   #818
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Seems to be a big variation in what people are running for diff oil...

I have no experience with gear diffs, but when one person suggests 10,000 and another 50,000... The higher the wt# of the oil, the more 'locked' the diff is.. is this correct? The variations I am seeing sorta indicate the difference in the results between 10,000 and 50,000 may not be all that much?
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Old 07-11-2005, 05:22 PM   #819
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Sparx,


Can you talk a little more about that TCD diff ?

thanks,
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Old 07-11-2005, 06:02 PM   #820
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Ray and I ran Toledo this last weekend and turned a bunch of low 20 second laps. Last year at the nats the guys were turning 19.7 to 20.2 laps in the a main.
I'll look my car over and post a setup that I used. Ray and I were real close on setup. Maybe just a small spring change different.

Diff oil
On a low traction track I will go as low as 8000 to get more steering and more rear bite. at toledo this last weekend I was a bit light and needed to be about 10000 to 15000. If the bite goes way up like it could given past experience it may be 15000 to 20000. At the great lakes challenge I will probably run somewhere in there. I could put the car anywhere I wanted it to be on power or off. The car was more strapped than any car I have ever had, kinda like driving a strapped 12th scale mod car. The car was quicker than my old brain could keep up with. So far the team has yet to use the rear spool for anything.

Maybe this will make it easier
tire shores 35- 37 8000/ 40- 42 10000 / 40- 45 15000 to 20000
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Old 07-11-2005, 06:38 PM   #821
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Ahh at last Motorman,

Thanks for oil advice, how does the 50/50 600 and 30000 compare to just say straight 20000?

How would you setup your R3 motor in this car with 25% nitro Dennis? I am just a few hours north of you so likely similar weather conditions (damn hot this yr). For a medium sized track, 150ft straight fairly tight infield.

What plugs? Shims? Pipe?
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Old 07-11-2005, 07:04 PM   #822
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Default Diff Oils

Martyn is right in being abit confused by all the "weights". Diff Oil grading also varies WIDELY between manufacturers. The same holds true for shock oils. The only advice I can say is buy them once from the same manufacturer at the same time. They come in realatively big bottles that you'll only ever have to buy once. Dennis and I compared a bottle of Ofna 10,000 to a bottle of mugen 10,000 and it was like nite and day. One flowed like thick glue and the other was like really heavy heavy shock oil. I would see what your local hobby store has. Buy one brand of oil........in 7,000 10,000 and like 30,000. The thing here to do is get a base for "feel" from one thickness of oil in the diff and another, and how it makes the car handle for you.
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Old 07-12-2005, 11:11 PM   #823
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Good luck to all the Mongoose drivers running the Sedan Nationals in Texas
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Old 07-13-2005, 01:29 AM   #824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartynD
Thanks for oil advice, how does the 50/50 600 and 30000 compare to just say straight 20000?
Almost the same feeling. I have two rear diff and one is (Kyosho)#30000 for high traction track. Another is (Kyosho)#20000 for mid traction track. With sandy track I will use #10000 or #8000.

I have both front diff/spool/1-way. Last Sunday race I have tested spool. It is very good for bumpy track. Slower turn in so you need to set the front spring softer and less caster. Also maybe narrow the width. It performed better than what I thought.
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Old 07-13-2005, 06:55 AM   #825
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Ok,

I have Mugen diff oils available locally, how does it compare to the Kyosho oils for wt#?
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