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Old 07-07-2005, 09:46 PM   #796
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It just keeps getting better
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Old 07-07-2005, 10:32 PM   #797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
Not any more if you use its cool tool

http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/profr...6055&pageNum=1

AFM
My bells actually broke from twisting the gear off. Can't get awat from that unless they reinforced the bell. The metal is very thin where the threaded portion meets the bell.
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Old 07-08-2005, 03:40 AM   #798
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Default Clutch Tips for existing clutch.

A couple of tricks I learned from using the existing clutch:
1) Make sure the clutch shoe slides up and down smoothly and freely on the clutch bell pins. Sometimes taking (I believe it's a 3mm) a drill bit and LIGHTLY! reaming the holes makes this movement super smooth.
2) Making sure there is no outer ridge on the flywheel to restrict flyweight movement. I know this was a problem for some.
3) The larger clutch pressure plate also smooths out clutch movement.
4) For those of you who don't have the new clutch springs I found that he Mugen super hard spring, and the gold spring work well.
5) I can't see that the new TM springs under 1.7 would really have much use. I believe the new 1.7 and 1.8 springs will be the ticket.

PS: It's good to see so many really good tips on this thread. So many of the other threads on cars have gotten filled up with Petty BS.

How would you guys feel about doing a Mongoose set-up thread for diffrent track conditions?
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:24 AM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJ
A couple of tricks I learned from using the existing clutch:
1) Make sure the clutch shoe slides up and down smoothly and freely on the clutch bell pins. Sometimes taking (I believe it's a 3mm) a drill bit and LIGHTLY! reaming the holes makes this movement super smooth.
2) Making sure there is no outer ridge on the flywheel to restrict flyweight movement. I know this was a problem for some.
3) The larger clutch pressure plate also smooths out clutch movement.
4) For those of you who don't have the new clutch springs I found that he Mugen super hard spring, and the gold spring work well.
5) I can't see that the new TM springs under 1.7 would really have much use. I believe the new 1.7 and 1.8 springs will be the ticket.

PS: It's good to see so many really good tips on this thread. So many of the other threads on cars have gotten filled up with Petty BS.

How would you guys feel about doing a Mongoose set-up thread for diffrent track conditions?
Good tips Ray J

I had allready tried all of them, so i totally agree with them. They work, and I will add one more which really made mine perfect.

On point (2) Centrifugal shoes catching on the outer ridge of flywheel and not returning back. I found that even though I filed off the edge, the shoes would still catch up sometimes, so what I did is thin out the shoes on their side sitting on the flywheel by 0.6mm...and bingo...shoes work perfectly, time over time...they sit lower on the flywheel and will not expand enough to catch the edge.......no more problems at all.

Hope it is clear and helps on this issue.

AFM
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Old 07-08-2005, 12:30 PM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dino.tw
There are some pictures of my steering system. I shimed the bearings so there is no slop and smooth. Just screw it to the end without problem.
Dino, I found the 3x5mm shims at TowerHobbies, But I can't find the 3x4.5x1.1mm shims. Can you tell us where did you get them? or you made them by yourself???
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Old 07-08-2005, 12:34 PM   #801
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try contacting http://fastener-express.com/
they have a wide selection of washers and fasteners.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:19 PM   #802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJ
A couple of tricks I learned from using the existing clutch:
1) Make sure the clutch shoe slides up and down smoothly and freely on the clutch bell pins. Sometimes taking (I believe it's a 3mm) a drill bit and LIGHTLY! reaming the holes makes this movement super smooth.
2) Making sure there is no outer ridge on the flywheel to restrict flyweight movement. I know this was a problem for some.
3) The larger clutch pressure plate also smooths out clutch movement.
4) For those of you who don't have the new clutch springs I found that he Mugen super hard spring, and the gold spring work well.
5) I can't see that the new TM springs under 1.7 would really have much use. I believe the new 1.7 and 1.8 springs will be the ticket.

PS: It's good to see so many really good tips on this thread. So many of the other threads on cars have gotten filled up with Petty BS.

How would you guys feel about doing a Mongoose set-up thread for diffrent track conditions?
Hey Rayj I also am using the mugen gold spring awesome snap & I will drop you a line on a special clutch shoe that I am testing
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Old 07-09-2005, 01:58 AM   #803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uneke
I might have some insight on the tank leak. I had the same problem when I first wired my car. There were so many wires that they squeezed up against the side of the tank. When this happens it deforms the opening of the tank and doesn't let it close completely. I shortened all my wires by cutting them and resoldering. it was a lot of work, but it made everything a lot cleaner.
It ended up being the gas cap door is warped
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Old 07-09-2005, 04:53 AM   #804
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Default Clutch shoes

The stock clutch shoes are pretty soft compared to the red shoes on the market. I end up replacing mine every two weekends or so, but remember I drive it alot!! I'm curious as to what your trying?
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Old 07-09-2005, 07:23 AM   #805
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Dennis

I just picked up a Mongoose (1st nitro) and will be putting an R3 in it. I am waiting on a few of the hop ups but for now will be running the car basically stock.

I will be running the car on a medium sized high bite track with a straight approx 150 ft long.

Will the stock gearing be sufficient? Any advice on where down that straight the 2nd gear should be set to kick in?

I will be running Tornado 25% nitro, with a 5mm pipe, how should the head be shimmed?

Early in this thread I see modifications are suggested for the steering rack, do these mods apply to the optional rack that comes with the kit, or the original one?

Thanks for any input
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Old 07-09-2005, 10:02 AM   #806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJ
The stock clutch shoes are pretty soft compared to the red shoes on the market. I end up replacing mine every two weekends or so, but remember I drive it alot!! I'm curious as to what your trying?
red & testing yellow I am awaiting for the shop to finish the order which company are you getting the red shoe from.
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Old 07-09-2005, 10:45 AM   #807
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Default Great Lakes Challenge

my next big race is going to be the great lakes challenge in toledo. this will be my first time running on a permanent track that large. does anyone have any setup tips for that track, ie. suspension and or tires?
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Old 07-09-2005, 01:01 PM   #808
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Starting to wonder what car I have now...

Think it must be an early evo...

Has the blue chassis, optional steering rack, blue hex whl adapters, blue alu sway bars, 75cc tank, one way, cvd's... clutch K1410-1. When I bought it (yesterday) I was told it was actually the Mongoose, though the box says TM G4 with the evo sticker on it...

From comparing gear ratios mentioned in posts above.. mebbe this would make it easier to ID... 20/24 pinions, 47/51 spurs..

Can I just replace the 20 with a 19 or 18T pinion? or is it abit more complicated than that?
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Old 07-09-2005, 01:56 PM   #809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uneke
my next big race is going to be the great lakes challenge in toledo. this will be my first time running on a permanent track that large. does anyone have any setup tips for that track, ie. suspension and or tires?
It will have to be done at the track I will be there on thursday
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2014 Roar Electric Nationals, IFMAR ISTC Worlds, 2015 Roar Fuel Nationals
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Old 07-09-2005, 01:58 PM   #810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartynD
Starting to wonder what car I have now...

Think it must be an early evo...

Has the blue chassis, optional steering rack, blue hex whl adapters, blue alu sway bars, 75cc tank, one way, cvd's... clutch K1410-1. When I bought it (yesterday) I was told it was actually the Mongoose, though the box says TM G4 with the evo sticker on it...

From comparing gear ratios mentioned in posts above.. mebbe this would make it easier to ID... 20/24 pinions, 47/51 spurs..

Can I just replace the 20 with a 19 or 18T pinion? or is it abit more complicated than that?
You have the version that came before the mongoose does it come with the blue aluminum steering rack. regarding the pinoin if you are changing pinions that is a one tooth difference you should be fine.
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