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Old 05-01-2005, 05:32 PM   #571
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Default Mongoose pics.

HAYJ,pics can be seen at my ebay auction #5972721455
Thanks,
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:47 PM   #572
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Default Centax issues still

I have purchased the new weights., shoes and new red spring for the centax but I am still have problems with it. It still seems to be slipping and making my engine run hot. It is better than before but just not like it should be.

When making an adjustment today (tried tightening the nut more) and it would hardly engage.

Even though I won today, these mugen are just ripping me out of the corners.

BTW, I am running the S-class gears and the 18-tooth brake/side pulley for a 7.92 final so I don't think it is gearing.

Any thoughts.
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Old 05-02-2005, 03:13 AM   #573
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Default Re: Centax issues still

Quote:
Originally posted by rodneybarrett
I have purchased the new weights., shoes and new red spring for the centax but I am still have problems with it. It still seems to be slipping and making my engine run hot. It is better than before but just not like it should be.

When making an adjustment today (tried tightening the nut more) and it would hardly engage.

Even though I won today, these mugen are just ripping me out of the corners.

BTW, I am running the S-class gears and the 18-tooth brake/side pulley for a 7.92 final so I don't think it is gearing.

Any thoughts.
The symptom you are having with the clutch would seem to be that it is over tight in it's adjustment.

If you tighten the spring preload too far then the clutch will slip because it doesn't allow the clutch pad to mate firmly with the clutch bell. At that point it won't matter what you do as there will be no drive off the corners since the clutch is just slipping.

If you want the engagement to be later so the engine revs more before fully engaging, then you could do one of two things.

1 - Lighten the stock flyweights, either by removing the brass inserts or if that isn't light enough, you could drill a couple of 1/8th inch holes into each flyweight in a symetrical pattern and see how that goes.

2 - Change out the red spring for a hard Mugen spring.

In all of this, there is a point in the clutch clearances where the spring compresses too much if you have too much preload, and won't allow the needed movement to let the clutch pad mate with the clutch bell. So the answer isn't always about making the spring tighter with the the adjusting nut.

I think in your case if you want it to hit as hard as possible out of the corners then you might be able to try both things in stages until you feel you have the right combination.

I run the red spring and the flyweights without the brass pieces and find that I don't lose anything off the turns compared to the Mugen/Serpent drivers.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 05-02-2005, 03:32 AM   #574
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Default Re: Re: Centax issues still

Quote:
Originally posted by Z00M
I run the red spring and the flyweights without the brass pieces and find that I don't lose anything off the turns compared to the Mugen/Serpent drivers.

Cheers,

Mike.
What's your spring tension preload and your clutch endplay when using the red spring?
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:56 AM   #575
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Quote:
The symptom you are having with the clutch would seem to be that it is over tight in it's adjustment.

If you tighten the spring preload too far then the clutch will slip because it doesn't allow the clutch pad to mate firmly with the clutch bell. At that point it won't matter what you do as there will be no drive off the corners since the clutch is just slipping.

If you want the engagement to be later so the engine revs more before fully engaging, then you could do one of two things.

1 - Lighten the stock flyweights, either by removing the brass inserts or if that isn't light enough, you could drill a couple of 1/8th inch holes into each flyweight in a symetrical pattern and see how that goes.

2 - Change out the red spring for a hard Mugen spring.

In all of this, there is a point in the clutch clearances where the spring compresses too much if you have too much preload, and won't allow the needed movement to let the clutch pad mate with the clutch bell. So the answer isn't always about making the spring tighter with the the adjusting nut.

I think in your case if you want it to hit as hard as possible out of the corners then you might be able to try both things in stages until you feel you have the right combination.

I run the red spring and the flyweights without the brass pieces and find that I don't lose anything off the turns compared to the Mugen/Serpent drivers.

Cheers,

Mike.

Thanks, I'll try and let you know.

However, I though the whole reason for the brass inserts were to make the clutch engage harder.
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:12 AM   #576
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Default Clutch setup

We use the hard Mugen spring, I believe 1.8 with the brass inserts when we are on high bite tracks. We use the red spring without the brass inserts on low bite tracks. Adjust spring preload until it slips then back it off about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Clutch gap is whatever it says in the instructions and I can't remember what that is off the top of my head.
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Old 05-03-2005, 08:58 PM   #577
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Quote:
Originally posted by rodneybarrett
Thanks, I'll try and let you know.

However, I though the whole reason for the brass inserts were to make the clutch engage harder.
If you remove the brass inserts, the flyweights are light and therefore it takes more energy to move them via centrifugal force.

The heavier the weight, the easier it is to move.

Therefore, a lighter flyweight will give you a clutch that engages later(higher RPM) and releases earlier, and a heavier weight will give you a clutch that engages earlier(lower RPM) and releases later.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 05-03-2005, 10:01 PM   #578
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I believe the reason people remove the brass weights from the shoes is because the stock red spring is too soft, when the weight is in them, the clutch engages too early, or you have to tigthen the clutch nut too much, the spring is too collapsed at this point, leading to an inconsistant clutch setting. The answer for most applications seems to be to remove the weights so you can use less pressure on the spring, or to put in a harder sping such as the Mugen or others, again so you don't have to collapse the spring so much. Hope this helps!
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Old 05-03-2005, 10:10 PM   #579
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BTW- my Mongoose's clutch bell has no hole in it to adjust the nut from the outside, is this how most people's clutch bells are? Seems a little inconvenient, but someone told me they did this on purpose as the hole in the clutch bell can get a burr on it, or the nut will get a burr, and the clutch will catch on this and adjust itself, anyone know for sure?
Has anyone tryed the NEW low friction belts or the new one piece motor mount, any input on either? The new belts look more flexabile to me, but not as fragile as the old LF belts.....
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Old 05-04-2005, 07:34 AM   #580
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Default re: belts

I have tried the new low friction belts on a very bumpy track and they held up extremely well. They are more durable than the old low friction belts. On the old low friction belts on the same track I would loose teeth on the front and side belts using new belts, but the new ones are great. They don't even show signs of wear. The one piece motor mount is also a good item. Fits is perfect. Also K-Factory has new clutch springs which are heavier, they are 1.8 and 1.9......got them the other day and haven't tried them yet...will probably try both this weekend.
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Old 05-04-2005, 11:44 AM   #581
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Default Re: re: belts

Quote:
Originally posted by peakman
I have tried the new low friction belts on a very bumpy track and they held up extremely well. They are more durable than the old low friction belts. On the old low friction belts on the same track I would loose teeth on the front and side belts using new belts, but the new ones are great. They don't even show signs of wear. The one piece motor mount is also a good item. Fits is perfect. Also K-Factory has new clutch springs which are heavier, they are 1.8 and 1.9......got them the other day and haven't tried them yet...will probably try both this weekend.
nice!i hope these belts ll be the solution of the "non tighters for the belts"i got the new steering system and the teeths are a little bit shaving and i need to replace them all the time!
what steering system do you got?
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Old 05-04-2005, 01:27 PM   #582
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peakman:

Where can I purchase the new clutch springs (1.8 and 1.9)? I do not see them on RD Logics website.
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Old 05-04-2005, 05:13 PM   #583
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rodney you can call RD Logics and ask for K1410-7 1.7 spring
and K1410-8 1.8 spring and they should have them in stock. And also I was wrong about the spring rates they are 1.7 and 1.8 not 1.8 and 1.9.
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:43 PM   #584
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I talked to RD Logics on Monday, and they had a bunch of new stuff in, new harder front universals, K-1488, new one piece motor mount, K-1496, new front solid axle, K-1477, and the new low friction belts, K-1493,K-1494, and K-1495, but they were out of stock already on the belts. Said a week or two on the belts to be back in stock....
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:43 AM   #585
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Default Motorman

Yo Dennis,

Answer your friggen phone.............................
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