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Old 04-15-2005, 09:38 PM   #526
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Isuzuguy, I have calmed down now..took a look at my clutch parts and, took a closer look at what motorman was saying and what some of the other guys were saying about the weights hanging up, Now I think this may fix my problem so I'm gonna try filing the edge of the flywheel but now I have to order some new fly weights because there are grooves burned in mine from the flywheel!...Thank you for your help!
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Old 04-15-2005, 10:19 PM   #527
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCUBA STEVE
Isuzuguy, I have calmed down now..took a look at my clutch parts and, took a closer look at what motorman was saying and what some of the other guys were saying about the weights hanging up, Now I think this may fix my problem so I'm gonna try filing the edge of the flywheel but now I have to order some new fly weights because there are grooves burned in mine from the flywheel!...Thank you for your help!
You're on the right track now Steve.

I think most of us had the same issue with the flyweights. I have found that just running some wet and dry sand paper around the lip of the flywheel is enough to stop the flyweights getting snagged on the flywheel.

You don't need to order new flyweights. If you have a dremel tool and a fine sanding drum, just sand the surface that rubs on the flywheel to get rid of the grooves you now have on them.

If you are going to use the red spring then remove the brass weights from the flyweights or move to a hard mugen spring.

The other must do mod is to the clutch pad itself. Use your body reamer to open the holes up that run on the flywheel posts so that the pad doesn't 'stick' as it disengages.

Once you have done these things you will have a clutch that behaves as it should. I guess it's just the small details that come from the agro that makes things turn out nice when you get it right.
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Old 04-16-2005, 05:58 AM   #528
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Zoom, Thank you for the advice...I will try sanding the weights to smooth them out and ream the holes in the clutch shoe...Thanks again to you and isuzuguy for helping me get this matter resolved so quickly!
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Old 04-16-2005, 09:58 AM   #529
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Default belts

guys is there any way to tight the front and the rear belt?


thanks
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:28 AM   #530
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Problem solved!...Thanks again guys!
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Old 04-16-2005, 05:54 PM   #531
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Default Re: belts

Quote:
Originally posted by apla
guys is there any way to tight the front and the rear belt?


thanks
3racing has a brakebracket that has a built-in belttensioner for the rear belt, i have it and it's pretty good
Concerning tension of the front belt i don't know at all..
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Old 04-18-2005, 02:45 AM   #532
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Default Re: belts

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Originally posted by apla
guys is there any way to tight the front and the rear belt?


thanks
The K-Factory rear belt tensioner (supplied via RD Logics or your local hobby shop) is a direct fit for the Mongoose.

As for the front, there really isn't anywhere mechanically to use a tensioner as it would interfere with the steering.
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Old 04-18-2005, 02:46 AM   #533
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCUBA STEVE
Problem solved!...Thanks again guys!
No worries Steve
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Old 04-18-2005, 02:57 AM   #534
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Great Run , great race !!!!!!
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Old 04-18-2005, 05:05 AM   #535
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I just read about the battery packs --is the hump pack AAA or just a regular hump pack that is used in a 1/8 buggy ?
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:54 AM   #536
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It's AAA batteries
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Old 04-18-2005, 09:28 AM   #537
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Default belts

guys

the steering system is a good one BUT the front belt touches the steering system a litle bit when the car steers and as a result the belt s teeths are shaving time by time.is this thing happens to your car as well??

is there any tip to avoid buying all the time new belts?

thanks
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Old 04-18-2005, 11:32 AM   #538
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If you still have the first batch steering system with black nut, change it to thinner one like the newer batch (silver). Shortened the screw approx 1 - 1.5 mm. Yes the belt is touching, well at least almost on most of my friend's car but none of them having the teeth coming off during the race
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:19 PM   #539
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24
If you still have the first batch steering system with black nut, change it to thinner one like the newer batch (silver). Shortened the screw approx 1 - 1.5 mm. Yes the belt is touching, well at least almost on most of my friend's car but none of them having the teeth coming off during the race
Look by touching at the steering system the teeth are a little bit shaved and as a result they jump at the dif s possitions.....if i catch the rear wheels and try to move the front they jump but not easily...............they jump thought!

i think i ll shave a little bit the upper nut!but if i won t manage to do this i ll order the new one!Do you know where i can find it? any links from on line shops?

thank you in advance!
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Old 04-19-2005, 08:34 PM   #540
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Hey guys, There is a very nice mongoose for sale on ebay item # 5970625745 it has even more k factory hop ups and includes a novarossi TSR12 S3 tubo mod engine ...custom painted body ect...Check it out!
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