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Old 03-16-2005, 07:19 PM   #391
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Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
YBSLOW/Motorman, What spring are you guys using in place of the stock steering rack servo saver spring?
Get the one from TC3. This spring is harder that the one from Mongoose
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Old 03-16-2005, 07:26 PM   #392
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Cool, thanks.
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Old 03-16-2005, 07:57 PM   #393
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jason were using the stock spring tightened about one round. tighten it so the saver arm deflects about 2 mm in each direction and file off the top threads that protrude through the nut.

another note: we have changed to x ray pivot balls and cups on many of the team cars steering linkages. no more popped off linkages
PN's are 302650 on the balls and 302660 on the cups.
the balls are a direct replacement thread wise and the ball cups are way superior. the balls are bigger to and the steering wont change in a tangle. 6 balls and cups come when you order the PN's
we hope to make a running change to this type ball and cup in the near future.
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Old 03-16-2005, 08:23 PM   #394
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
PN's are 302650 on the balls and 302660 on the cups.
We even use this on the 710 steering linkage. They are better than Serpent's own. No slop and really reliable. But the 302650 is very expensive for 6 pieces of balls...
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Old 03-16-2005, 08:37 PM   #395
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Quote:
Originally posted by Robert I.
Get the one from TC3. This spring is harder that the one from Mongoose
There is also an spring for the rear differential of the TC3, it's really hard, will be hard enough for it (not too hard), and you will have your servo saver working!!
I wish I can have the part number for you, sorry
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Old 03-17-2005, 10:46 AM   #396
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Default Servo saver spring.

Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
YBSLOW/Motorman, What spring are you guys using in place of the stock steering rack servo saver spring?
Pretty much the same thing Dennis said. I tighten the screw as tight as it will go and then back 1/8th turn and cut the screw off flush with the lock nut. I am using the stock kit spring.
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Old 03-17-2005, 10:50 AM   #397
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Default Re: Clutch Mod

Motorman,
Is Vegas somewhat similar in track size as the Miami Track ??? Seeing as how you have been to both what gearing ration does your gut feeling think would be the wise decision to start with ???

I have the 18 tooth combo set, and it's seems fine for SRS here in AZ, but wondering about combos to play with in Vegas for the RD Logics Race in April !!

YBSLOW what do you think ???? [/B][/QUOTE]


I will probably start out with a 19/24 with the 19 tooth pulleys using 59mm tires. May use 18/24 if I want more punch off the corner. This track is quite a bit bigger than Florida. Ft Myers they run like 14 sec laps and Vegas is more like 21 if I remember correctly.
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Old 03-21-2005, 10:03 PM   #398
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brad you racing this weekend??
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Old 03-22-2005, 11:29 AM   #399
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
brad you racing this weekend??
Maybe!
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Old 03-22-2005, 11:36 AM   #400
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Quote:
Originally posted by YBSLOW
Maybe!
where at?
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:16 AM   #401
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Default Testing Results

Over the last couple of race meetings, I have had trouble getting the car to work on small tyres and a low ride height, so I took to our local track today to do some testing of my theory.

What was happening was that when running the car with a low ride height (5mm front and 5.5 mm rear) I had problems with the rear of the car getting loose both on turn in and under power during transitions (esses).

Previously I have been running 0mm droop front and +2mm droop rear.

Without changing anything else on the car, I set the rear droop to +4 and immediately, the rear of the car was planted and I needed more steering .

This proved my theory that when running low ride heights, the droop needs to be compensated for. This may not be news to some of the pro's but I thought I'd share it anyway.

In the end, I ran the rear droop at +3 and the front at +1, 42 shore rear tyres and 40 shore fronts (more steering and now they wear evenly!) with 40wt oil in the rear shocks and 50wt oil in the fronts both sets with the stock pistons. I also changed the rear diff oil to 50,000 wt oil while running a one way in the front.

The car is now so easy to drive fast and place it where you want it in the corners. The track is a purpose built facility with a hotmix surface with no traction additives. It was also pretty dusty since we haven't had a race meeting for more than 3 weeks.

I think I need more power now as the chassis is balanced so nicely .
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:19 PM   #402
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Default Zoom

I usually qualify with 56-57mm tire size, and 3mm front, 4mm rear ride height. I never measure my droop on the blocks, unless i know that I will not be making any running changes. I just always have a 1-2mm uplift play with my front droop, and a 4-5mm uplift play on the rear. I find this to be easier and more consistent, and all i have to worry about is the camber.

Hope this helps.

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Old 03-24-2005, 07:13 PM   #403
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just got a mongoose could some one give me a good base set up for a fairly fast but not to long track.
shock positions
springs
oil.
ect. Thanks
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Old 03-24-2005, 07:44 PM   #404
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brad or leo could you post a rev setup for the car. Nick, Eric how about you guys.
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Last edited by Motorman; 03-24-2005 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 03-24-2005, 07:46 PM   #405
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zoom the method leo uses is they way to go. chase the droop based on the tire size using the reference of up travel height when the car is sitting on the table. once thats done use the blocks to balance the droop out and wherever it falls it is. as long as its even right to left.

more rear droop will give the car more turn in steering and more front droop will give more on power steering. to much droop on either end can cause the car to traction roll. However thats pretty hard to do with a mongoose. It don't roll over very easy like some other cars do.
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