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Old 03-04-2005, 07:13 AM   #376
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Default tires

hey brad, how small were u cutting your tires
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:57 AM   #377
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Default Re: tires

Quote:
Originally posted by isuzuguy
hey brad, how small were u cutting your tires
59MM
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Old 03-05-2005, 09:18 AM   #378
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Default Same Issue ??

Quote:
Originally posted by 1pulse
Dennis,
The last three motors that I have sold I have had to remove the main jet and machine the thread on the needle back about 2mm so that we could screw the main jet in down far enough to achieve the correct needle setting,are the carbs pre set in the factory?
Thanx Ed(Aussie Distributor)
I noticed my low end seems about the same as other engines, however, My top end is only adjusted about 2 turns max out ??
Something seems odd or is it pre set as posted above??

The car seems ok and temps were perfect all night around 230-240 on a short track.

My clutch has some issues, first run ok, then after looking it over, I noticed some unusual wear and bulging.
I am going to get some kits and play around with it a bit to try and figure it out. I saw the posts earlier about removing some edge on the fly wheel.

The steering was awesome, Finally a car that I can utilize some ability to adjust down the amount of steering as compared to my 710.

I had a little bit of a problem with the ass end wanting to swing out and will probably remove the rear sway bar, however, I think it was more a clutch engaing at the wrong time when wanting to accelerate out of a corner.

Anyone have any setup sheets filled out that could be posted??

Ybslow ? Isuzu Guy ? Motorman?

Love the car and hope to see all at the Rd Logics race in Vegas!!!
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Old 03-05-2005, 09:31 AM   #379
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JABRONI... I have Josh Cyrul's setup of the G4 when he had the car... PM and I'll give it to you... Also I'll give you another setup so you can compare the two...

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Old 03-06-2005, 06:18 AM   #380
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I run the Goose today and after getting the weight on all 4 tires the same and changing the front shock oil to 60wt and I left the rear shock oil with 40wt the car handled like a dream.

I had some issues with the clutch also but I seem to have found a solution,I took the clutch spring out of my MTX-3 (H0767) gave the red spring the flick and installed the H0767,I wound the spring down to bottom and came back 1 full turn,then shimed the end float on the bell to about 0.2mm to 0.3mm.

The car had great mid corner speed thru to top end matching the MTX/JP cars,I would like to a bit more bottom end ,after seeing a few of the last posts I might drop my 1st gear to an 18T for better punch out of the turns.

Over here in OZ I find the motor (RD/RRE R3)runs best at 260-270deg on 16% nitro.

Ed(Aussie Distributor)
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Old 03-06-2005, 09:46 AM   #381
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Default Re: Same Issue ??

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
I noticed my low end seems about the same as other engines, however, My top end is only adjusted about 2 turns max out ??
Something seems odd or is it pre set as posted above??

The car seems ok and temps were perfect all night around 230-240 on a short track.

My clutch has some issues, first run ok, then after looking it over, I noticed some unusual wear and bulging.
I am going to get some kits and play around with it a bit to try and figure it out. I saw the posts earlier about removing some edge on the fly wheel.

The steering was awesome, Finally a car that I can utilize some ability to adjust down the amount of steering as compared to my 710.

I had a little bit of a problem with the ass end wanting to swing out and will probably remove the rear sway bar, however, I think it was more a clutch engaing at the wrong time when wanting to accelerate out of a corner.

Anyone have any setup sheets filled out that could be posted??

Ybslow ? Isuzu Guy ? Motorman?

Love the car and hope to see all at the Rd Logics race in Vegas!!!
Give me a call and I will tell you how to fix everything. The clutch works better than any clutch I've ever run before (mugen,serpent associated, kawahara etc) but it has to be set up right with the right spring and if you have the new flywheel, which you do you must file down the outer lip where the flyweights ride or they will not disengage properly when you let off. RD has addressed this issue and I am sure there will be a running change on the flywheel and I know there will be a spring change to the clutch in the future kits as well. The kit springs are also way to stiff in the rear to run at SRS and I can only imagine what front tires you were running.
Call me,
Brad
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Old 03-08-2005, 08:09 AM   #382
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YBSLOW:

It would be great if you could post how to fix the clutch problem online so we all could see.....or maybe you already have in your post. Just wondering if there is anything more that needs to be done.

thanks.
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:27 AM   #383
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Are you sure you didn't put it on backwards?

Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
Speaking of rear belts. I just started putting my Mongoose together for the summer and notice that with the 20t main shaft pulleys the rear belt is quite tight. Is this normal? This is with the K factory belts. Thanks, J Longbrake.
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Old 03-08-2005, 06:52 PM   #384
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Default Belts

Just a word of warning to those using the Low Friction Belt set on their Mongoose.

I have used these belts since I first raced mine and after just three race meetings, the rear belt is as smooth as and the front belt is missing teeth.

If you are going to use the belts with the stock internal gearing then you MUST use a rear belt tensioner.

I have a feeling the front belt may have been damaged when it was asked to do all the work when the rear belt gave up.
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:49 AM   #385
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
Are you sure you didn't put it on backwards?
Pooter, duh.

Congrats on your mod 1/12 state championship, lol.
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Old 03-13-2005, 07:22 PM   #386
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Questions about the flywheel. Here is the issue and how to fix it if you have a clutch hang issue.

The lip on the flywheel is sharp and hangs on the flyweights on some. not all. rounding this edge (see edge where screwdriver is pointing, the inside edge only) with a small file will fix the issue. It does not take much material removal to fix it just take the edge off some. we did it while the engine was running with the clutch off but be carefull. If you do it that way all you have to do is place a small file on the edge for a second or two with the engine idling. otherwise you can remove the flywheel and do it by hand.

Yes low friction belts have been high wear, we are working on a new belt. the team has gone back to the stock belts front and rear in most cases especially if using 18's. the side they are still using. Hopefully the new ones will last longer.

spring/ some are using a 1.8 mugen spring with the brass inserts and some are using the 1.6 stock spring (red)without the brass inserts. it is a taste thing. we have a 1.7 and 1.8 spring comming from K factory. they are new.

Option a 1.8 is for high bite and option b 1.6 is for low bite tracks
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Last edited by Motorman; 03-13-2005 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 03-14-2005, 12:58 AM   #387
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hi motorman,
i use bondo belts in my g4, they are great
dieter
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Old 03-14-2005, 07:42 AM   #388
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You can use kyosho belts for v-one rr they will fit and will last forever!!! Pm me for the part number in case you need help
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Old 03-15-2005, 06:20 PM   #389
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Default Clutch Mod

The Clutch worked just fine Friday night after taking a minimal amount off of the Flywheel.

I need a little info on what springs to run and gearing charts for different track dimensions if anyone has something figured out yet based on the numerous gear ration programs that are out there.

Motorman,
Is Vegas somewhat similar in track size as the Miami Track ??? Seeing as how you have been to both what gearing ration does your gut feeling think would be the wise decision to start with ???

I have the 18 tooth combo set, and it's seems fine for SRS here in AZ, but wondering about combos to play with in Vegas for the RD Logics Race in April !!

YBSLOW what do you think ????
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Old 03-16-2005, 07:04 PM   #390
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YBSLOW/Motorman, What spring are you guys using in place of the stock steering rack servo saver spring?
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