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Old 02-20-2005, 02:29 PM   #316
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Dennis... The Mugen white springs are to hard.. Use there new Mugen dark blue springs... 60 wt. shock oil rear and 50 wt. shock oil in the front.... Is some chases, you may want to go down to next softer spring in the front if more steering is needed... I've had the same with the links sliding in on the steering rods in an impact jacking up the toe... I think the plastic may be a tad bit to soft... Over all though, you're right, the car is great and is a big step up over the prior G4 E-class... .02

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Old 02-20-2005, 07:30 PM   #317
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Oh yes I almost forgot we all ran the new 0505 pipe. On a short to mid range track it rocks. Killer punch and midrange. Turbo 2 is still the choice on a big track.
I got to remember the pipe tip
how would the new 0505 do with the rb rody roam I been using the turbo 2 last season on a midrange track in Enfield Ct.
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Old 02-21-2005, 07:52 AM   #318
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Jnims

you need the plastic reciever mount that comes in the kit the carbon ones will cause issues with glitch. (don't use the carbon one) It looks cool but you will pay for using it. Your car is the same as a mongoose but I don't know if you have the new transmission gears and clutch. In fact I would be suprised if you did because those werent out then. go to the RD site and look at the k factory option two speed set and the new clutch set and see if all the parts look like yours. If not that should be the only major difference with all the go fast parts on pauls car your car should be very close. You don't need to waterproof your reciever unless you plan to race in the rain. Our reciever is as protected as everyone elses. If someone smacks you in the side mugen serpent or mongoose its gonna leave a mark. al least ours doesn't fall off because it breaks the deck only for you to find out after you've dragged it around the track for ten laps. One of those does that.

I'll see if I can dig up the part number for you
Motorman, sorry for the confusion, I do not hve a G4. I was just asking some questions. Thank you for all the help. As soon as my tax return comes i will order my Mongoose combo. One more question, what servos do you recommend? I was thinking about the Airtronics 360's.
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Old 02-21-2005, 12:41 PM   #319
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I am the one that has Chicky's car right now to try out.
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Old 02-21-2005, 01:16 PM   #320
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thanks ybslow. let me know when you hear from dennis.
What is up Racer x, I spoke to Dennis yesterday. PM me your phone number and I will make sure he gets it.
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Old 02-21-2005, 02:39 PM   #321
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my dad sent you his number,isuzuguy
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:00 PM   #322
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This past Sunday, we again had a club round. This was my second outing with the Mongoose. I had to fit a new RRE R3 engine during the week since mine snapped a rod during testing.

Even though the motor was very tight during the heats, I still managed to qualify second for the A main and my best lap time was 17.3 seconds (my fastest lap ever). Fastest lap of the day was a 16.9 so we're getting closer.

I finished second in the main even though I flamed out once during the race. I think the flame out is due to the clutch being too loose, as I didn't have much zip off the turns.

I think if I can get the clutch sorted out so I can get better drive off the corners then I might be in business. The car carries wicked corner speed but the run onto the main straight is faily slow and without the punch off the corner it takes me longer to get to the other end compared to the JP powered cars and their tight clutches.

I have to say I'm having fun running this car!

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 02-21-2005, 08:44 PM   #323
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Zoom, what size track are you racing on and what gears are you using? Setting your clutch is also key... If you're running the stock gears and topend is fine, change your first gear from 20 to 19 on the clutch bell... Also make sure your adjustment screw on the centax clutch didn't loose it's setting and back down on the adjustment spring to much... If you're running 20, change to 19... You won't have any problems coming out of the corners or accelerating doing that switch. Take apart the clutch and make sure everything think is ok... If your clutch is out of adjustment, you'll really have problems with accelerating and engine tuning... Goodluck and happy racing with the G4 Mongoose..

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Old 02-21-2005, 09:04 PM   #324
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zoom see my post about the clutch sticking. that may b the issue
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:18 PM   #325
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Thanks for the replies.

I am running the stock mongoose gearing (19/24 pinions).

The issue is with the clutch and not the gearing. I had the problem with sticking flyweights originally so I guess I was the first to radius the outer lip on the flywheel. I thought this was just my bodgie hack but seems as though the RD crew came up with the same answer.

I had issues with the clutch working the clutch adjusting nut loose but threadlock soon fixed that. I just need a little more time to get used to what settings I want on the clutch as I ran out of time on the weekend. I think I will also try running the flywights without the brass bits as well. This should help the clutch engage later as well.

Cheers,

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Old 02-22-2005, 01:56 AM   #326
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Zoom, sounds like you getting things sorted out... Though I believe the stock 1st gear is 20 and not 19... You'll know if it's 19 if it's purple in color or just do a quick count just to make sure... The new S-class speed gears will also give your more options as it comes with an 18t and 19t first gear and a 46t and 45t spur gear... You may want to use the 25t 2nd gear if you're racing on a high speed track... Having speed will never be a problem with the Mongoose... Talking about being a Snake killer... The Mongoose sure can be and is!!! Good luck with the clutch.

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Old 02-22-2005, 02:19 AM   #327
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Is this a problem with just the stock flywheel on the Mongoose? I have a friend that has a TM G4 and he was hoping to upgrade to the new KFactory flywheel, but i guess this might not be such a great idea?

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Old 02-22-2005, 06:07 PM   #328
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
Zoom, sounds like you getting things sorted out... Though I believe the stock 1st gear is 20 and not 19... You'll know if it's 19 if it's purple in color or just do a quick count just to make sure... The new S-class speed gears will also give your more options as it comes with an 18t and 19t first gear and a 46t and 45t spur gear... You may want to use the 25t 2nd gear if you're racing on a high speed track... Having speed will never be a problem with the Mongoose... Talking about being a Snake killer... The Mongoose sure can be and is!!! Good luck with the clutch.

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Thanks Alan,

If you look in the Mongoose manual on page 24, the description of the parts in bag L say that the pinions are K1490 19T and K1416 24T. The first gear pinion is described as being S-class. The spurs are 51T first gear and 46T second gear (bag A, page 2).

Whilst I haven't counted the teeth on the pinions, I assume they are what is stated and the spurs are marked as per the description.

I'm sure it will be all good once I get the right clutch setting as I say.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 02-22-2005, 07:20 PM   #329
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Mike the pinions are as follows

the old first pinions are purple as a 19, the new s class pinions which are not reflected in the manual correctly are blue 19 and orange 18. you can use the old first pinions with the old black gears. the new gears are grey and should be used with the blue and orange pinions however a black 52 works ok with the new orange 18. If you use the old black gears other than that with the new pinions (blue and orange ) you will have poor mesh with 2nd gear. and 2nd will fail. The second grey pinion is 24 (23 is purple) and is the same dimater as the old 2nd pinions but the 2nd spur gears are smaller in diameter. Confused yet?? LOL At the florida winternats we used 18 (orange) with 52 (black) on first and 24 (grey) or 23(purple) and 46 grey on second.(24/45 was to high there) 18 or 19/52 on first will give good snap off the corners

Advice on adjusting gear mesh (if your not sure if the combo you are trying to use works check it this way. after adjusting the engine to what you think is a good mesh on first remove the first speed spur gear from the shaft and physically look at the 2nd gear mesh. if it looks you need to change the combo.

(the new s class first pinions are a smaller diameter and will bring the mesh tighter (engine closer to the second spur)for second gear and the old pinions wil loosen it up (further from the second spur)
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Old 02-22-2005, 08:06 PM   #330
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Hey Dennis,

Thanks for the confusion. LOL.

I even went back to the car to physically count the teeth on the pinions.

I have the blue 19T and the grey 24T pinions with the grey 46T and 51T spurs. The gears all mesh nicely (from what you said in your post, they are a correctly matching set) and I haven't had any problem at all in this regard.

The first time I ran the car at a race meeting ( a fortnight ago) the clutch was very tight and the car wound up well before taking off and I had good drive off the corners. This past weekend's racing the clutch was too loose so the motor was sluggish off the turns. I was happy with the rest of the car and the gearing and such. I just need to sort out my clutch settings.

On a side note Dennis, is there any chance of making a running change to the RRE R3 motor's conrod to include an oil hole at the piston end as well as the crank end? My motor that snapped a rod snapped at the piston end. I had a look at the STS conrod and it has oil galleries at both ends. Not sure if this would have helped or not, just thought I'd get your opinion since you know way more than me about such things.

And are you going to get some RD butts down here for the Aussie nationals?

Cheers,

Mike.
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