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Old 02-01-2005, 01:14 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Nils I'm working on a simple calculator that you can use to calculate any gear ratio final drive and rollout on the mongoose just by plugging in the numbers. I should have the Apha version done I hope by the end of the week. If not It will be two weeks before I can get it published after I get back from the winternats. It will be a free download from the RD site.

The beta version will also calculate the optimum gearing for a desired track length based on gear ratio, tire diameter and track length. It will be good to get the car in the window very quickly.

smaller spurs and bigger pinions will give more top end.
Dennis, is it based on the one Dino from STS had for the TM G4
plus the track info data??

AFM
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Old 02-01-2005, 06:31 PM   #182
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Default Re: clutch sticks

Quote:
Originally posted by isuzuguy
hey zoom i had the same problem when i first put mine together ,
if the clutch is set-up right ,as far as spacing and it spins freely
the clutch disc is sticking on the three pins on the flywheel clean the holes up with a reamer or small dremel bite and make sure the disc slides smoothly on the pins and your problem will be fixed
This doesn't address the problem I have. It's not sticking on the posts.

I had a phone call from Eddie from Pulse Model Motorsports (the Aussie RD distributor) and he gave me some things to try. I can't believe how good Eddie's service is!

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 02-01-2005, 07:22 PM   #183
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Mr Shims.
No good answer for you on the ball cup. Is it loose. man those things grip tight. are you hitting stuff? Some of the drivers are substituting a NTC3 steering rack spring there and have had good results. Others have been replacing the spring screw with a shorter one and tightening down the spring real tight. I removed the spring all together but if your prone to hitting things I would not do that. I would use option 1 or 2. We are working on a third generation of steering mechanism and it will be a bolt in but it is a little ways off.

Zoom
The end bell of the centax should only float a couple thousanths. Sounds like you have it to loose. set the end play to .015 thousanths or .2 mm

Izugu guys tip on the shoe is an issue we have found. Open the holes in the shoe slightly if you experience the clutch not disengaging at high speed when you let off the throttle

AFM
its probably similar but it is a new Visual basic program so the answer is no. Never saw dinos.

Tip on building Mongoose shocks:
Take the plastic insert on the top of the shock and superglue the bladder to it with thin CA before you install it in the metal collar. This keeps the bladder from becoming displaced when you screw it down and keeps oil from getting under it. Scrap the extra oring that is provided to under the shock cap on the outside. It keeps the shock cap from seating tight enough against the shock body. It is useless and unnessary.

Tip on servos: seems the KO's fit the best as the whole setup is super tight everywhere.
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Old 02-01-2005, 09:04 PM   #184
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Thanks motorman, the main reason i see why the ball cup pops out is the angle of the link itself when at full turn. the ball cup is not at 90' with the ball joint, its the joint at the steering side that always pops out. im using a 9451 for steering and i had to bend the servo arm for the link to fit inbetween the bulkhead. i understand why it would pop out crashing into the wall but there were instances when i would just be hit by another car in corners not even at high speed, holeshot. can you recommend any tighter ball cup or should i increase the size altogether? thank you again.
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Old 02-01-2005, 11:45 PM   #185
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Does'nt Nick Dotson run this car
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Old 02-02-2005, 10:46 AM   #186
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thanks for the reply motor man.
cant wait to calculate with the beta version.
good luck at the winternats.
thake the g4 to the #1st place.
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Old 02-02-2005, 10:49 AM   #187
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Quote:
Originally posted by rangulo
Does'nt Nick Dotson run this car
Nick is one of RD's Team driver
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Old 02-02-2005, 02:02 PM   #188
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Mr shims
the best ball cups I have ever seen are XRay ball cups. Those take an act of god to get off.

Tell me a little more about your setup, shock oil, springs,and what front steering knuckles ?? what body
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Old 02-02-2005, 03:13 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Mr Shims.
No good answer for you on the ball cup. Is it loose. man those things grip tight. are you hitting stuff? Some of the drivers are substituting a NTC3 steering rack spring there and have had good results. Others have been replacing the spring screw with a shorter one and tightening down the spring real tight. I removed the spring all together but if your prone to hitting things I would not do that. I would use option 1 or 2. We are working on a third generation of steering mechanism and it will be a bolt in but it is a little ways off.

Motorman:

Will this third generation steering system be a similar design to the MTX3 system?

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Old 02-02-2005, 05:00 PM   #190
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however the servo location will be the same.
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Old 02-02-2005, 11:51 PM   #191
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im using the new steering knuckles already, shock oil at 35 all around and alfa body or mazda 6. springs i use mugen whites (1.9 ) in the front and team magic orange in the rear or 1.7
thanks motorman
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Old 02-03-2005, 10:45 AM   #192
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Default 18 Tooth Pinion and new Pulleys

Motorman/All,

I currently own 2 Mongoose/G4 car kits that I race on a tight, small, local track. I have been following the produt updates from Team Magic and RD logics regarding the new 18 tooth transmission shaft pulleys, and the new S-Class clutch and gear sets.

My questions are:

Can I run the new 18 tooth S-Class Clutch Gear with a 23 tooth second gear on my factory G4 centax clutch bell and still maintain proper gear clearances? This setup would yield a 7.30 first gear final and a 5.27 second gear final which should be good for a tight track. Any other thoughts?

Can I run the new 18 tooth transmission shaft pulleys without changing belts and/or tensioners?

Has anyone tried this setup yet and posted any results?

If you used the stock 19/23 clutch gears with the new 18 tooth transmission shaft pulleys, this would yield a 7.30 first gear final and a 5.57 second gear final (Even better than the first option for a tight track). Any thoughts?

Thanks for your response,
ED
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:00 PM   #193
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Thats somthing your going to have to try to find out. I do not know I haven't tried it yet.

as far as the 18's go if you have the rear tensioner you should be fine. some have said the low friction belts are a little tighter.
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:05 PM   #194
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shims
try 50 front oil, kit springs, go to 37 tires put the rear bar back on and turn it up 45. drop the rear camber to 3 and see how it does with an alfa. If it then has to much steering go to 40 fronts and don't stiffen the front springs. stand the rear bar straight up.
see how that works. you want bite from the front tires but you want to start limiting front body roll. stiffening the rear will limit the front body roll and the thicker front oil will dampen it.

It sounds like your using stiff front springs to get rid of steering that may be being induced by to much rear body roll which is still reducing rear traction. Your camber at 4 seems high as the g4 has alot of induced rear camber gain already especially when using the upper link hole on the rear knuckle.
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:08 PM   #195
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bundy the answer is yes
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