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Old 11-09-2005, 07:10 PM   #1816
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It is possible to see the performances, this type of CONICAL

5 fins manifold - short type (best solution on long straights)

6 fins manifold - medium type (suggested to have more push exiting curves and on the straight)

7 fins manifold - long type (more power exiting curves)

Choose your weapon
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Old 11-10-2005, 01:35 AM   #1817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX_joe21
It is possible to see the performances, this type of CONICAL

5 fins manifold - short type (best solution on long straights)

6 fins manifold - medium type (suggested to have more push exiting curves and on the straight)

7 fins manifold - long type (more power exiting curves)

Choose your weapon

RC_Alan
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:50 PM   #1818
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Are those blue springs in the back? What type shock oil? 21 speeds? I only have two on mine.

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Originally Posted by wad
I told my friend to get a Mongoose, and look what he got


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Old 11-12-2005, 09:09 PM   #1819
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Default Reactors G4...................

Thats a nice G4 'Reactor'

Do you use the titanium pivot balls in the suspension too from K factory?

Do you run the 3mm chassis? Have you tried the 4mm? I've got the 4mm on at the moment due to bending..... .... my 3mm one.

I'm planning on running my G4 in next years Midwest series.
Any help from anyone on getting the best out of it, as I really do like the car and want to do well.
It would really be appreciated !!

I have the E class at the moment with a whole bunch of hop-ups and a Nova Rossi S3 which really flies at the mo.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:22 PM   #1820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace
Thats a nice G4 'Reactor'

Do you use the titanium pivot balls in the suspension too from K factory?

Do you run the 3mm chassis? Have you tried the 4mm? I've got the 4mm on at the moment due to bending..... .... my 3mm one.

I dont have the titanium balls yet as the overall weight is acceptable, i run the 3mm chassis kfac, no i havent tried the 4mm but i have seen it and its tough but heavy and flexin on 3mm is very true if i switched to 4mm id rather get the new one with carbon stiffener it looks lighter than the ordinary 4mm chassis, but then the price is too steep

even without hop ups the G4 is already tough and very nice car.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:44 PM   #1821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reactor
I dont have the titanium balls yet as the overall weight is acceptable, i run the 3mm chassis kfac, no i havent tried the 4mm but i have seen it and its tough but heavy and flexin on 3mm is very true if i switched to 4mm id rather get the new one with carbon stiffener it looks lighter than the ordinary 4mm chassis, but then the price is too steep

even without hop ups the G4 is already tough and very nice car.
Then what do you think of this chassis?
http://www.brooklynhobbies.com/index...ROD&ProdID=839
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:32 AM   #1822
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A few people here uses that chassis im not sure of its actual weight though the chassy gives more cooling to the engine with those numerous holes and i guess the holes serves as a weight reduction.
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Old 11-13-2005, 04:08 AM   #1823
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I got my mongoose today, compare to my old G4 i sold long ago, that is tons of improvement
one stupid question, does any one know why they use 2 peice of plastic holder under the front diff ? what is the purpose of that?

one more question, my brake tend to engage when it goes full throtal, how do people aviod that?
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Last edited by Car Breaker; 11-13-2005 at 04:58 AM.
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Old 11-13-2005, 04:32 PM   #1824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
I got my mongoose today, compare to my old G4 i sold long ago, that is tons of improvement
one stupid question, does any one know why they use 2 peice of plastic holder under the front diff ? what is the purpose of that?

one more question, my brake tend to engage when it goes full throtal, how do people aviod that?

as you mentioned "holder" it serves as that

i dont see your car but i assume just minor adjustment, 2 possible reasons.

#your servo is not in neutral position that the brake rod is positioned longer heading backwards so when your on full throtle the servo horns pushes the brake rod more leaning negative that the brakes engage.

#If you have spacer or spring installed on your brake rod from the servo horn it maybe too tight that it pushes hard negative when you hit full throtle, try removing it, the only purpose of having springs on brake rods are to make sure you dont have brake drag when your car is moving forward but it should be little just to push back the pads away from the disk.

I installed real racing break pads from kfac and it works flawless and no drag at all, it uses 2 little springs between pads preventing unwanted drags when you dont need brakes

Hope that helps
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:05 PM   #1825
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Default Mongoose

Pretty Cool !!! On E-Bay !!!

Tom Mcewen Hotwheel !!!

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Old 11-13-2005, 07:23 PM   #1826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reactor
as you mentioned "holder" it serves as that

i dont see your car but i assume just minor adjustment, 2 possible reasons.

#your servo is not in neutral position that the brake rod is positioned longer heading backwards so when your on full throtle the servo horns pushes the brake rod more leaning negative that the brakes engage.

#If you have spacer or spring installed on your brake rod from the servo horn it maybe too tight that it pushes hard negative when you hit full throtle, try removing it, the only purpose of having springs on brake rods are to make sure you dont have brake drag when your car is moving forward but it should be little just to push back the pads away from the disk.

I installed real racing break pads from kfac and it works flawless and no drag at all, it uses 2 little springs between pads preventing unwanted drags when you dont need brakes

Hope that helps
thanks for the suggestion, I readjusted the linkage it work fine now, I might put spring in between teh break pad so I can find a appropriate one,
thank for the help[
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:31 PM   #1827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
thanks for the suggestion, I readjusted the linkage it work fine now, I might put spring in between teh break pad so I can find a appropriate one,
thank for the help[
You finished the car in one day already?!
It looks pretty anyways.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:05 PM   #1828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogreasurada
You finished the car in one day already?!
It looks pretty anyways.
you are right. I am on a 10 hours building + 4 hours sleep and 10 hours more to finish the car. that is one day
I don't even bother to eat , starving for 24 hours (my body fat can support me well with all teh energy I need )
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:10 PM   #1829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
you are right. I am on a 10 hours building + 4 hours sleep and 10 hours more to finish the car. that is one day
I don't even bother to eat , starving for 24 hours (my body fat can support me well with all teh energy I need )
I wish I can spend my whole day like that too......Still remeber the wonderful 3-day weekend building my 950R. Have fun with the car and wish you get great result.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:14 PM   #1830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogreasurada
I wish I can spend my whole day like that too......Still remeber the wonderful 3-day weekend building my 950R. Have fun with the car and wish you get great result.
I weekend is too free to call boring. I am a basher with crappy driving skill.
goor result ot me simply mean "no crash for my car or to make somebody else crash" (that is why I was called car breaker)
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