RDLogics Mongoose
10-23-2005, 08:54 PM
#1756
do the change walter recommends first. make sure any bolt threads that stick out the top you file off so they won't rub the belt. Then if thats not enough go to the max ackerman on the hubs. (steering links all the way to the front) Then add some front droop to get more on power. Then if you need it you could shorten the arms (you shouldn't have to go there)
Also take the front shocks off and let the chassis lie on the table. Turn the wheels full lock right to left. If the car rises up then the track is to narrow up front and the knuckles are hitting the lower arms. That will definatly make the car push (widen the front end or shorten the lower arms 2 mm as insurance)
standing the rear shocks up some and laying the fronts down is another recommendation along with adding caster. (add clips in front of the arms)
Lack of steering has not been a problem for us this year.
Also take the front shocks off and let the chassis lie on the table. Turn the wheels full lock right to left. If the car rises up then the track is to narrow up front and the knuckles are hitting the lower arms. That will definatly make the car push (widen the front end or shorten the lower arms 2 mm as insurance)
standing the rear shocks up some and laying the fronts down is another recommendation along with adding caster. (add clips in front of the arms)
Lack of steering has not been a problem for us this year.
Last edited by Motorman; 10-23-2005 at 09:33 PM.
10-23-2005, 09:04 PM
#1757
wyl03
You can overdrive the car if the track is really abrasive. I have used this a few times this year by running an 18 rear pulley and a 19 rear side pulley. Then use 63mm rear tires and 59.5 front tires. Use 18/23 or 18/24 pinions.
This also works on a track with really long straights and keeps the off corner punch high. This way I don't have to use the 25 second pinion. I used this on high abrasion tracks and long straight tracks like Cincinatti. It works good with Sedan and VDS bodies alike. The rollout increase is not that great at low speed with the tall tires compared to using a 60 mm tire so off corner is about the same because I usually use a 19 pinion with 60's, but once the car gets rolling the added rollout of the 63's really makes the car haul.
PS if you are going to use the 18 rear pulley I highly recommend the new low friction black belts. They seem to hold up very well.
You can overdrive the car if the track is really abrasive. I have used this a few times this year by running an 18 rear pulley and a 19 rear side pulley. Then use 63mm rear tires and 59.5 front tires. Use 18/23 or 18/24 pinions.
This also works on a track with really long straights and keeps the off corner punch high. This way I don't have to use the 25 second pinion. I used this on high abrasion tracks and long straight tracks like Cincinatti. It works good with Sedan and VDS bodies alike. The rollout increase is not that great at low speed with the tall tires compared to using a 60 mm tire so off corner is about the same because I usually use a 19 pinion with 60's, but once the car gets rolling the added rollout of the 63's really makes the car haul.
PS if you are going to use the 18 rear pulley I highly recommend the new low friction black belts. They seem to hold up very well.
10-23-2005, 09:25 PM
#1758
After a solid year of Brad,Ray and I pounding the hell out of the car I recommend the following. If your setting up a new goose for racing
Obviously the car.
K1410-4 Large clutch shoe plate
K1410-7 orange spring (when using the brass weights in the flyweights, use red with no weights)
K1437 carbon rear shock tower and stiffner
K1437-1 Spare rear shock tower (superglue both together)
K1489 18 pinion
K1493 Low friction Front belt
K1494 Low friction Side belt
K1495 Low friction Rear belt
K1496 One piece engine mount
get a couple sets of spare steering rack plastic, and change the steering rack spring to the one walter recommended.
Solid front diff recommendations: buy the parts to build a front diff and fill it with modeling clay. It works just well as the solid axle and the solid front axle has a tendency for the outdrives to loosen up all the time.
Obviously the car.
K1410-4 Large clutch shoe plate
K1410-7 orange spring (when using the brass weights in the flyweights, use red with no weights)
K1437 carbon rear shock tower and stiffner
K1437-1 Spare rear shock tower (superglue both together)
K1489 18 pinion
K1493 Low friction Front belt
K1494 Low friction Side belt
K1495 Low friction Rear belt
K1496 One piece engine mount
get a couple sets of spare steering rack plastic, and change the steering rack spring to the one walter recommended.
Solid front diff recommendations: buy the parts to build a front diff and fill it with modeling clay. It works just well as the solid axle and the solid front axle has a tendency for the outdrives to loosen up all the time.
10-23-2005, 09:57 PM
#1759
You know I looked at races during the year and the few mongoose cars running I am aware of did quite well depending on where they raced.
The midwest series Sedan PTS
1.Chris Dosek-HPI R40 354
2.Ira Schultz-MTX3 354
3.Dan Debenedictis-Kyosho RRR 351
4.Tom Esposito-Serpent-710 351
5.Ray Juhl-Mongoose 345
9 point spread over 6 races with 2 toss outs, Shows even with all the brand hype any car is capable. 2 mongoose cars raced the total series out of 72 different drivers
Toledo race #5 Mongoose qualified 1 and 2 and Howard Cho won.
At the recent Paris Vegas Race
Ofna and Mongoose finished 1 and 2. Isn't that Ironic, the 2 bastard child cars. LOL
Ray Juhl won the Toledo Club Points series with his goose this year (8 races)
I also Know WAD has done quite well in a sea of MTX3's and RRR's
The midwest series Sedan PTS
1.Chris Dosek-HPI R40 354
2.Ira Schultz-MTX3 354
3.Dan Debenedictis-Kyosho RRR 351
4.Tom Esposito-Serpent-710 351
5.Ray Juhl-Mongoose 345
9 point spread over 6 races with 2 toss outs, Shows even with all the brand hype any car is capable. 2 mongoose cars raced the total series out of 72 different drivers
Toledo race #5 Mongoose qualified 1 and 2 and Howard Cho won.
At the recent Paris Vegas Race
Ofna and Mongoose finished 1 and 2. Isn't that Ironic, the 2 bastard child cars. LOL
Ray Juhl won the Toledo Club Points series with his goose this year (8 races)
I also Know WAD has done quite well in a sea of MTX3's and RRR's
10-24-2005, 08:15 AM
#1760
On power push.
Originally Posted by quietstorm76
Guys I'm having some steering issues. I can't get the car to rotate well in the turns. It always pushes on power. Has anyone else had this problem?
I keep taking rear toe-in out of the car until it does not push on power. I also usually run max caster. I usually run between 1 and 2 degrees of toe-in in the rear. You can also thicken up the rear diff fluid a bit if you are still pushing (10,000 to 30,000 wt mugebn oil). Is the push out of every corner or in like sweapers coming on or off a straight?
10-24-2005, 10:38 AM
#1761
It's coming into and out of a turn, when I jump on the gas it pushes. When i'm going slow it turns on a dime.
I may have found the problem. I broke down the front end and found
1. shock lengths were off. only 59mm should have been 63.5mm
2. both upper arms binding, ran a drill bit thru them to free them up.
3. droop screws backed all the way out. Shock were acting as the droop stops.
Hopefully this fixes the problem.
I may have found the problem. I broke down the front end and found
1. shock lengths were off. only 59mm should have been 63.5mm
2. both upper arms binding, ran a drill bit thru them to free them up.
3. droop screws backed all the way out. Shock were acting as the droop stops.
Hopefully this fixes the problem.
10-24-2005, 11:01 AM
#1763
Front arms
Originally Posted by quietstorm76
It's coming into and out of a turn, when I jump on the gas it pushes. When i'm going slow it turns on a dime.
I may have found the problem. I broke down the front end and found
1. shock lengths were off. only 59mm should have been 63.5mm
2. both upper arms binding, ran a drill bit thru them to free them up.
3. droop screws backed all the way out. Shock were acting as the droop stops.
Hopefully this fixes the problem.
I may have found the problem. I broke down the front end and found
1. shock lengths were off. only 59mm should have been 63.5mm
2. both upper arms binding, ran a drill bit thru them to free them up.
3. droop screws backed all the way out. Shock were acting as the droop stops.
Hopefully this fixes the problem.
10-24-2005, 11:31 AM
#1765
Revelation
Originally Posted by wad
Hey Brad, when are you coming back to Revelation. Fusion Race?
10-24-2005, 01:07 PM
#1767
I tightened the servo saver spring all the way. It helped a lot but I tapped the wall and broke the arm that connects to the steering rack. Do I have to buy the entire swing rack parts to get this one part?
Thanks guys for all your input. I was about to punt the car on yesterday.
Thanks guys for all your input. I was about to punt the car on yesterday.
10-24-2005, 05:43 PM
#1768
Do you guys have any set-up sheets I can view. I ran yesterday at a high bite track in Connecticut, and had a hard time keeping the ass end from wagging. I did'nt have alot of time to experiment with setups, but still managed to run a 2nd place in the B-main.(First if my pitman was watching the clock 
). Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
). Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
10-24-2005, 07:11 PM
#1769
Originally Posted by Dreddlox
Do you guys have any set-up sheets I can view. I ran yesterday at a high bite track in Connecticut, and had a hard time keeping the ass end from wagging. I did'nt have alot of time to experiment with setups, but still managed to run a 2nd place in the B-main.(First if my pitman was watching the clock ). Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
). Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.