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Old 09-15-2005, 07:42 AM   #1531
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I don't know but this could be the cause. My friend also has gear problem on last race just after he change from 19/24 to 19/25. Later he switch back to 19/24 and voila no more gear stripping again.

Maybe the big differences from 1st gear to second gear cause this. I always stay not too far away from my 1st and 2nd gear ratio. Maximum is 5 teeth difference.

Too old or too sharp pinion can also cause the problem just as those Kyosho guys called their as "2-racedays-only-pinion-gear" LOL Let us know if your problem solved
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Old 09-15-2005, 08:43 AM   #1532
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David from RD-Logics asked me the same question and I told him I believe it's the material that the S-class gears are made of... They're to soft period. My clutch and spur gears are brand new... And Daniz24, you have a point, when I run the 24t clutch gear, I don't have a problem... When I run 25/47 for my 2nd gear my gears didn't strip either, but my speed tops out way to soon... When I switched to 25/46 and 25/45, the speed increase was perfect... but the distance in tooth count and the speed increase was I guess to much for the gears to handle. My shift point is right on the money and my gear mesh was perfect everytime I changed the gears.... It's set to shift early to carry my top speed longer and take the stress off the S-Class 2nd gear during shifting... I'm not here slamming the car or flaming it... I like everyone else supports RD-logics and the car.... We're just looking for answers and this one, I can't figure out... It must be the material of the gears that can't take the stress... Any Team or Factory driver's have any answers???

RC_Alan

Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
I don't know but this could be the cause. My friend also has gear problem on last race just after he change from 19/24 to 19/25. Later he switch back to 19/24 and voila no more gear stripping again.

Maybe the big differences from 1st gear to second gear cause this. I always stay not too far away from my 1st and 2nd gear ratio. Maximum is 5 teeth difference.

Too old or too sharp pinion can also cause the problem just as those Kyosho guys called their as "2-racedays-only-pinion-gear" LOL Let us know if your problem solved
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Old 09-15-2005, 09:55 AM   #1533
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I'm using the s-class gears, and I never had a problem with it. But, my friend was having problems, I found that the problem for him was his car, he had the side plates (next to the engine) loose causing some movement when the car was running, this will directly affect the gears mesh. I will recomend to make sure that your car is tight, you don't want any fexibility on it if you are having gears problems.
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Old 09-15-2005, 09:58 AM   #1534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
David from RD-Logics asked me the same question and I told him I believe it's the material that the S-class gears are made of... They're to soft period. My clutch and spur gears are brand new... And Daniz24, you have a point, when I run the 24t clutch gear, I don't have a problem... When I run 25/47 for my 2nd gear my gears didn't strip either, but my speed tops out way to soon... When I switched to 25/46 and 25/45, the speed increase was perfect... but the distance in tooth count and the speed increase was I guess to much for the gears to handle. My shift point is right on the money and my gear mesh was perfect everytime I changed the gears.... It's set to shift early to carry my top speed longer and take the stress off the S-Class 2nd gear during shifting... I'm not here slamming the car or flaming it... I like everyone else supports RD-logics and the car.... We're just looking for answers and this one, I can't figure out... It must be the material of the gears that can't take the stress... Any Team or Factory driver's have any answers???

RC_Alan

Well I have to somewhat agree that the S-class spur gear material is not as good as the stock. I believe it is more brittle not softer anyway there are a couple of things I check everytime I run the car. No 1 is you absolutely have to make sure the 2spd spur gear is completely tight on the two speed housing, and I recheck the gear mesh and retighten the motor mount screws top and bottom before every run as well.

1. Always run a S-class 2nd spur gear with a S-class 1st pinon gear.
2. Always run the smae difference in tooth count pinons/spurs like mentioned above.
3. The only time I use S-class gears at all is when it is necessary to run 18 tooth first pinon gear. The S-class spur chnges the ratio so slightly unless you are running a bone stock turd motor you should not run out of gear with the standard gearing at CP and definetely not at Rev.
4. I run 18/23 with 51/46 at Revelation.
5. I run 18/24 with 51/45 at CP before they changed the track layout and ran several 16.2 laptimes. I tried 19/25 and the car actually went .6 tenths slower even though you scream the motor just a bit at the end of the straight. I also was running 61 mm tires.
6. The Rd Team has been asking team magic to release the S-class gears made from the same material as the stock gears for awhile now. Fingers crossed.
7. Make sure you do not use old sharp tooth pinons. Don't run over curbs at Rev as this will kill any spur gear, I've done it with all three brands of 1/8th cars trust me.

Hope everyone makes it out to The RD Race at Rev next week.

Brad
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Old 09-15-2005, 11:10 AM   #1535
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yeah I had to do that too and now it works great , i used a small sanding drum and grinded about 1.5mm off the bulkhead in the front.
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Old 09-15-2005, 12:34 PM   #1536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freefallmarine
Hey, Guy's trying to figure out how to put a sterring servo linkage in my buddies mongoose? he left me the car but no instuctions. the servo arm linkage seems to bind with the front bulkhead. Any trick's i should know? Thank's. C.
Space the servo forward towards the front of the car a few mm and then run the ball off the back of the servo arm rather than teh front - works perfectly and no need to dremel anything.
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Old 09-15-2005, 03:27 PM   #1537
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anyone have any experience with the 625MG, like how well does it center and hold its power?
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Old 09-15-2005, 04:10 PM   #1538
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YBSLOW... I've tried the 18/24 & 51/25 at CP... While that gearing will set your car up to be very quick, it's not a fast gearing for CP... Leo turned a 15.4 using the gearing I posted above... 19/52 & 25/46 at CP... I'm going to try and run 19/50 for the first gear and see if that makes a difference... Maybe the distance in tooth count is causing this problem... TM & RD really should look into this problem and the material used in making the S-Class gears... These are .08 gearing... You shouldn't have to limit your options in your gearing... They should work reguardless.... I do understand that you don't want a large a gap between gears... Everything else you've said I've tried... This problem first started when I was running outlaw and was using the OS TZ-18... I know... but the class was outlaw.. lol I said ok, maybe to much motor for the gears to handle... Then it started again when I switch to my old RB v12 and then my current TZ12... I'm not the only one running those gears with the problem... Peeps ask me what gives... I just tell them I'll look into for them and let them know when I have an answer...

RC_Alan
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Old 09-15-2005, 06:54 PM   #1539
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One other thing that I need to mention !!!!

I basically ran what Brad did at Crystal Park and had no problems over the entire weekend, however, I did notice one interesting aspect of the issue that I had experienced with my Serpent Car over the years.

I noticed that if you do not have your distance correct when you throttle your car ( Holding it in your hand or on your bench) and you of course will notice that the whole assembly will move outwards because of the RPM's and centrifigual force, will in some cases, make your wear pattern appear to be somewhat disproportional when examing your gear mesh at a later time.

Basically what I am saying is that you will notice that you have a high spot on your gears that is not worn, and it creates a situation that will eventually allow the mesh to be worn in such a way, that it allows the situation to eventually get worse and ends up destroying your gears. (NOt your pinions, but you Spur Gears).

It can happen slowly, or quickly , depending upon how much play you have, or the angle of the mesh.

Just a thought if nothing else, and hopefully it may help in the future.

Scott
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Old 09-15-2005, 07:05 PM   #1540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
YBSLOW... I've tried the 18/24 & 51/25 at CP... While that gearing will set your car up to be very quick, it's not a fast gearing for CP... Leo turned a 15.4 using the gearing I posted above... 19/52 & 25/46 at CP... I'm going to try and run 19/50 for the first gear and see if that makes a difference... Maybe the distance in tooth count is causing this problem... TM & RD really should look into this problem and the material used in making the S-Class gears... These are .08 gearing... You shouldn't have to limit your options in your gearing... They should work reguardless.... I do understand that you don't want a large a gap between gears... Everything else you've said I've tried... This problem first started when I was running outlaw and was using the OS TZ-18... I know... but the class was outlaw.. lol I said ok, maybe to much motor for the gears to handle... Then it started again when I switch to my old RB v12 and then my current TZ12... I'm not the only one running those gears with the problem... Peeps ask me what gives... I just tell them I'll look into for them and let them know when I have an answer...

RC_Alan

Wow I would like to see the 15.4 lap times Leo posted? With a transponder on the old layout? Doubt it. I know Darin ran like one 15.9 on the old layout at the last race.
I agree with you about the material of the gears, that is what I said in the first post. Trust me you are running the wrong gear ratio or your motor is a turd, that would be my guess. I would put any of my roar legal .12's against your .18 tz any day of the week. Ask anyone whoraces with me including Leo.
I know you have been racing long enough now.............Hopefully you will actually run expert at the RD race instead of one of Dana'a made up classes he runs for Trophy hunters.
If you cannot tell you pissed me off telling me 16.2's were slow and the wrong gear to run, you better go look at real lap times posted from the WCNC at CP which was the last race run on the old layout at CP and you will find 16.2's easily in the top 4 or 5 posted.
We need more bad advice from novice drivers who think they are experts.
I'm done trying to help.
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Old 09-15-2005, 07:25 PM   #1541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YBSLOW
Wow I would like to see the 15.4 lap times Leo posted? With a transponder on the old layout? Doubt it. I know Darin ran like one 15.9 on the old layout at the last race.
I agree with you about the material of the gears, that is what I said in the first post. Trust me you are running the wrong gear ratio or your motor is a turd, that would be my guess. I would put any of my roar legal .12's against your .18 tz any day of the week. Ask anyone whoraces with me including Leo.
I know you have been racing long enough now.............Hopefully you will actually run expert at the RD race instead of one of Dana'a made up classes he runs for Trophy hunters.
If you cannot tell you pissed me off telling me 16.2's were slow and the wrong gear to run, you better go look at real lap times posted from the WCNC at CP which was the last race run on the old layout at CP and you will find 16.2's easily in the top 4 or 5 posted.
We need more bad advice from novice drivers who think they are experts.
I'm done trying to help.
Fortunately or Unfortunately I completely agree !!!!!
I noticed a few things with the car that have been addressed absolutely to a Tee !BY the Team Manager and team members!! which shows how dedicated the principle team members have been in answering questions (Unlike some others) I have experienced.

One other thing, and this actually is no slam on anyone, if you see something when building a car, experience will show , that you have to improvise in some cases and with any car, shave a bit here, cut a bit there, but the bottom line is the car has actually been one of the most dependable cars I have ever owned.

I only wish that the parts situation on the website would include all of the parts for ease of ordering, other than that keep asking questions and someone will have the answer.
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:06 PM   #1542
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Brad: Rc-alan is talking about the race for Toys for Tots last year at CP, all the top guys were running on the 15 seconds range, traction was different, so there is no way to compare.
For the WCNC race I were on the low 17's high 16's range and finished in 4th place, so 16.2 is a really good lap time for that race
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:38 PM   #1543
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i already builded my car and want to change the original cross scews (that range from 3x6mm to 3x12mm) to hex 4-40 screws (i spent a some money in tools and screws of this type since my other cars use them), my corcern is that since the parts are treaded with the originals, by using a different pattern the parts might get messed up by stripping them or making the holes bigger causing the screws to get loose due to vibrations etc etc. do you guys think that the change will cause any problems?
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:49 PM   #1544
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4-40 screws are smaller than the 3mm ones. It will seem like it grabs ok, but its just barely hanging on. When I had my NTC3 I replace all the 4-40 screws on it with 3mm, and it was mugh better, it never striped, no matter how much you cinch them down.

Not a good idea.
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Old 09-16-2005, 01:01 AM   #1545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wad
Brad: Rc-alan is talking about the race for Toys for Tots last year at CP, all the top guys were running on the 15 seconds range, traction was different, so there is no way to compare.
For the WCNC race I were on the low 17's high 16's range and finished in 4th place, so 16.2 is a really good lap time for that race
YBSLOW... Like Wad just posted... I know what Leo ran... I was there... I saw his car and his setup... Oh, show me where I posted that your so call 16.2 lap time was slow... and as for what gears to run... That's up to the driver... ie. different motors and driving styles will dictate what gearing to use along with track layout... As for your other comments... Next... Thanks everyone else for your help both online and off.. I'll try a few things out and let you all how things turn out... If they work, I'll share what I did.... But I still believe the gear material is the main problem...

RC_Alan
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