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Old 02-09-2005, 10:59 AM   #1396
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Quote:
Originally posted by 007kel
Thanks for the link Marcos J.
no problem
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Old 02-09-2005, 02:40 PM   #1397
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HI

Does the RX needs to be stuck to the car with double sided tape or is there any other way to do it so i can keep using the RX for another car ? till i get another one dedicated for the RRR
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Old 02-09-2005, 02:48 PM   #1398
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Looks sweet!
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:21 PM   #1399
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Quote:
Originally posted by Craig1
Take the tank out and block off the fuel outlet to the carb. Put a spare lenght of fuel line on the pressure fitting in the lid.

Submerge the tank in some water and blow through the pressure line.

My guess is you won't have to try too hard to make some lovely bubbles come out from under the lid.
i know that trick. i tried it and as sure as what you said it quite a little spa show
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:25 PM   #1400
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
VZ230B. Picture shows new vs. old
the new topdeck looks awesome, but i dont understand how that stops your tank from leaking after you seal it?
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:29 PM   #1401
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Quote:
Originally posted by Team-RTR
the new topdeck looks awesome, but i dont understand how that stops your tank from leaking after you seal it?
Everyone I know who drives the RRR has the air leak problem with their tank. All of the leak came from the front and rear screw hole of the tank. This is why people put a soldering iron around the holes hoping to make a better seal.

We thought the problem came from defective tanks but apparently Kyosho believe it came from the design of the upperdeck. The way the tank is mounted there is no play between the tank and the deck. So in an impact if the upper deck bends the force of the impact is transferred to the tank directly. Over time, it cracks open the top bottom seal even if just slightly.

You can see how your chassis and upperdeck can bend as the front and rear of the car is only supported by a plastic brace. If it's not tight you can bend the chassis slightly.

By having the elongated holes, impact forces will not be transferrd to the tank screw hole and thus prolonging the life of the tank.

My theroy anyway. Thus far it's working for me (and I've replaced 3 tanks before this).
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Old 02-09-2005, 11:58 PM   #1402
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Default air leak

hi..
its been a while.
used a brand new rrr at the victorian states,,and you guseed it..the tank leaked..easily fixed..pressure tested (hot water trick)..found leak.
got a soldering iron..( done the scab!),,
walla fixed...
checked again and little bubbles came out of the lid..from the back.
checked my FW's tanks..new and old..and they leaked little bubbles from the lid in the same place
Never had problems with those cars (in fact a friend was running one all week)...the RRR tank leaked a little more though..
closer inspection of the seal and it was slily offset..( manufacturing!!!!!!!!!!)..replaced with a serpant seal..and its now better than the FW's................
oh you can lower the tank by 4mm if you cut out the centre plastic that joiuns the rear top tray mounts together.. i used alumin 4mm spacers and longer screws,,still clears the battery..100 nimh. ..helps heaps,,,
whats this new deck i hear about..any links to the pics?
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:18 AM   #1403
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Peter, the new upper deck fixes it. I've went through half a gallon and a race with the new upper deck and no problem thus far.
I`m running the new deck and would have to agree. I`ve put quite a few tanks through and (luckily) havent had any tank probs.....yet.
The part number for the new upper deck is VZ230.....I`m not sure if this is still the same as the original deck??
Another idea that could be considered in trying to repair the original tank, would be to line the mounting holes for the tank with some of those steel/aluminium eyelets that come with the Futaba servos. This would probably require the original holes to be slightly drilled/reamed out and then the eyelet could slide straight through and the tank mounted as per normal.......I wonder if this would help solve the problem as the eyelet should help the tank from getting load around the mounting hole area.
Cheers
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Old 02-10-2005, 04:03 AM   #1404
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Default hi guys

hi guys only new to the kyosho usually run a tc3 but sick of blowing diffs so now have the rrr worlds edition and wow impressive car has anyone else have one of these as well.....
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Old 02-10-2005, 05:10 AM   #1405
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got a RRR which is pretty much the same thing. im very impressed with this car plenty of steering you cant ask for any more from this machine.
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Old 02-10-2005, 05:41 AM   #1406
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Default V-OneRRR

Hi,

Just ordered my rrr WC edition! My friend says these are the mutt's danglies. Just got off of the phone to the guy who owns the below shop - knows his stuff.

https://www.benracing.co.uk/acatalog...V_One_RRR.html
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Old 02-10-2005, 05:57 AM   #1407
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Default Need help on fixing my rrr

I am stuck at step 9(knuckle arm) on page 11. Is part no.194 the metal blue cap? I find it difficult ro screw it into the knuckle arm part no.2, it goes very tight half way in.

Any help or advice for me?
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Old 02-10-2005, 09:13 AM   #1408
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Default Re: Need help on fixing my rrr

Quote:
Originally posted by ahleon
I am stuck at step 9(knuckle arm) on page 11. Is part no.194 the metal blue cap? I find it difficult ro screw it into the knuckle arm part no.2, it goes very tight half way in.

Any help or advice for me?
When I build a new kit or replace with new parts, I always put a dab of grease on the screws to help them thread in to the plastic, it saves stripping the threads and you can feel better when they have seated home.
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Old 02-10-2005, 11:42 AM   #1409
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Quote:
Originally posted by AndyT
I`m running the new deck and would have to agree. I`ve put quite a few tanks through and (luckily) havent had any tank probs.....yet.
The part number for the new upper deck is VZ230.....I`m not sure if this is still the same as the original deck??
Another idea that could be considered in trying to repair the original tank, would be to line the mounting holes for the tank with some of those steel/aluminium eyelets that come with the Futaba servos. This would probably require the original holes to be slightly drilled/reamed out and then the eyelet could slide straight through and the tank mounted as per normal.......I wonder if this would help solve the problem as the eyelet should help the tank from getting load around the mounting hole area.
Cheers
The correct part number for the new upper deck is VZ230B.
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:11 PM   #1410
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Default Re: Need help on fixing my rrr

Quote:
Originally posted by ahleon
I am stuck at step 9(knuckle arm) on page 11. Is part no.194 the metal blue cap? I find it difficult ro screw it into the knuckle arm part no.2, it goes very tight half way in.

Any help or advice for me?
hey ahleon,

did you find the plastic spacers which sit behind the screw caps? dunno if the normal rrr kit has these but the wc did... they sit between the pillow ball (226) and the screw cap (194) they are on one of the parts trees looks like a rounded cap one end with a recess to fit into the screw cap... otherwise you could use the nylon/plastic screw caps off a parts tree that are supplied. they are quite tight to do up initialy which is good, you dont want them working loose! do them up so pillow ball can move freely but with as little as possible to no slop at all.
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