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Old 12-10-2007, 08:25 PM   #9676
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
no uses one ways no more? I run one in my wce, should I change it? track is huge, and fast flowing with good grip
No. The one-way should work the best, under those conditions.
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:46 PM   #9677
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Correct me if I am wrong, solid front axles and differentials are best used on low grip track conditions.

Coming from a buggy background exprience the differential would be the best choice to use on very poor grip conditions as this can be tailored to your liking when choosing oil wt specific to your track, now looking back at some of my notes, I do recall that 10,000wt was the lowest used on rear diffs, and as what Kewldog said 30,000wt for the front and dropping the wt for more grip as the track requires. our track is still not sprayed down with VHT, has been washed down already 3 times, has a slightest dusty layer to it, but will be cleaed off, the track line is showing slowly, and is obvious that outside those lines the car would loose grip.

Running 42's and 40's on my friends car G4S which is a merely a ready to run with 10,000WT on the back and most likely 10,000WT on the front does give the car plenty of grip, with a stock 12SH, I was most of the time running 3/4 to full throttle on the track, when tried another car with another power plant which was the Mega .12 Massmo engine, the car had a hard time to stick on the ground, it did require a different setup.

I was going over a friends serpent 710 today, and noticed that this vehicle does not use oil to adjust the diff settings, but by bolt tension, and does come with the option of one way and solid front axles.

At what I am seeing so far on the track, my RRR and as per Kewldogs recommendations, most likely going to be setup with 30,000WT front, 10,000WT on the back with 2.5 camber on the rear and 4 toe in, with 3 toe out in the front 2 camber, lowering the roll center as much as I can. 38's in the front and 40's on the back if not 38's.

500's on shocks with medium or soft springs wihout affecting the roll as much as possible.
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Old 12-10-2007, 09:07 PM   #9678
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Originally Posted by shesha View Post
Correct me if I am wrong, solid front axles and differentials are best used on low grip track conditions.

Coming from a buggy background exprience the differential would be the best choice to use on very poor grip conditions as this can be tailored to your liking when choosing oil wt specific to your track, now looking back at some of my notes, I do recall that 10,000wt was the lowest used on rear diffs, and as what Kewldog said 30,000wt for the front and dropping the wt for more grip as the track requires. our track is still not sprayed down with VHT, has been washed down already 3 times, has a slightest dusty layer to it, but will be cleaed off, the track line is showing slowly, and is obvious that outside those lines the car would loose grip.

Running 42's and 40's on my friends car G4S which is a merely a ready to run with 10,000WT on the back and most likely 10,000WT on the front does give the car plenty of grip, with a stock 12SH, I was most of the time running 3/4 to full throttle on the track, when tried another car with another power plant which was the Mega .12 Massmo engine, the car had a hard time to stick on the ground, it did require a different setup.

I was going over a friends serpent 710 today, and noticed that this vehicle does not use oil to adjust the diff settings, but by bolt tension, and does come with the option of one way and solid front axles.

At what I am seeing so far on the track, my RRR and as per Kewldogs recommendations, most likely going to be setup with 30,000WT front, 10,000WT on the back with 2.5 camber on the rear and 4 toe in, with 3 toe out in the front 2 camber, lowering the roll center as much as I can. 38's in the front and 40's on the back if not 38's.

500's on shocks with medium or soft springs wihout affecting the roll as much as possible.
It looks like you're really concerned with locking in the rear end. if, that's the case, make your rear camber 3 deg., rear toe-in 3 deg., and 1 deg. toe-out up front. Excessive toe (front or rear) will slow the car down in a straight line and cause it to push in the corners(rear). As far as camber goes - set the car up so the tires wear flat. This means finding the right combination between tires, shock oil and springs, camber and, of course, roll-center. Keep wrenchin'.
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:08 PM   #9679
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Time to rebuild my RRR trying out a solid instead of a onway this time around for up coming races looking forward to going to Winternats 08 for the first time should be a blast.
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:34 PM   #9680
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson View Post
Time to rebuild my RRR trying out a solid instead of a onway this time around for up coming races looking forward to going to Winternats 08 for the first time should be a blast.
Make sure you have plenty of practice time. The car is going to behave totally differently when running the solid front. It took me about a full practice day to get used to the difference. I literally had to force myself to keep the solid in the car.
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Old 12-12-2007, 11:14 PM   #9681
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Make sure you have plenty of practice time. The car is going to behave totally differently when running the solid front. It took me about a full practice day to get used to the difference. I literally had to force myself to keep the solid in the car.
Thanks Scott....I plan to get a lot of practice time in, What was the hardest adjustment you had to get use too? I heard the car wants to push more out of the corners.
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:18 AM   #9682
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson View Post
Thanks Scott....I plan to get a lot of practice time in, What was the hardest adjustment you had to get use too? I heard the car wants to push more out of the corners.
Let me know if you need any help with the car, I will make sure you have a great time driving it...........
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:29 AM   #9683
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Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
i was actually thinking of asking the same thing. my local track is same as what you said tony. i have never tried the one way there only just the front solid
John
the one-way is no good at moorebank you need the breaks for the end of the back straight and in the centre otherwise you over shoot the corners even with the on power steering gained its not enough to be quick enough the solid is probly .6 or .7 of a second quicker but in saying that its good to try different things as its make you a better driver because you will need to set the car up differently

cheers
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:23 PM   #9684
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson View Post
Thanks Scott....I plan to get a lot of practice time in, What was the hardest adjustment you had to get use too? I heard the car wants to push more out of the corners.

It does push a little bit more so be prepared to run a softer shore tire on the front of the car. I usually run one softer on the front compared to the rear. Also, you will use the brakes a lot more and a lot harder. Common mistake I see (and do) is setting the brakes so tightly that you lock up the fronts in slower corners. Usually I set the brake endpoint as high as possible without locking up the front tires. The car doesn't turn well under braking, but it doesn't turn at all if you lock the fronts. STRAIGHT LINE BRAKING is the key. Brake while the car is straight, then let off the brakes so the car can roll freely through the turn. Power out.

Also, don't forget now that you are going to be using the brakes more you may want to upgrade your brakes and disc to the APP set.
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Old 12-13-2007, 01:33 PM   #9685
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It does push a little bit more so be prepared to run a softer shore tire on the front of the car. I usually run one softer on the front compared to the rear. Also, you will use the brakes a lot more and a lot harder. Common mistake I see (and do) is setting the brakes so tightly that you lock up the fronts in slower corners. Usually I set the brake endpoint as high as possible without locking up the front tires. The car doesn't turn well under braking, but it doesn't turn at all if you lock the fronts. STRAIGHT LINE BRAKING is the key. Brake while the car is straight, then let off the brakes so the car can roll freely through the turn. Power out.

Also, don't forget now that you are going to be using the brakes more you may want to upgrade your brakes and disc to the APP set.
In my opnion K-factory brake disc and brake pads are better than the Kyosho APP
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Old 12-13-2007, 02:38 PM   #9686
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In my opnion K-factory brake disc and brake pads are better than the Kyosho APP
I have not tried them. Also it depends on what brake pulley you are using to determine if you can use the K-factory brake disc. The older RRR's use the rectangular (sort of) drive system for the pulley. The EVO uses two pins to turn the brake disc.
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Old 12-13-2007, 02:39 PM   #9687
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Originally Posted by wad View Post
Let me know if you need any help with the car, I will make sure you have a great time driving it...........
Thank's Walter......You've always been very hepful from day one when I started racing nitro on road so I will be talking with you on some base setups and etc.
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Old 12-14-2007, 05:45 AM   #9688
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I have not tried them. Also it depends on what brake pulley you are using to determine if you can use the K-factory brake disc. The older RRR's use the rectangular (sort of) drive system for the pulley. The EVO uses two pins to turn the brake disc.
I'm using the Evo WC, with the aluminium pulley.
The K-factory's G4 disc is a direct fit to the EVO WC brake stopper.
Actually, I had to set the ATL in my radio lower because I had too much braking and this could make my rear belt brake easier. Plus, with the K-fatory pads there is no brake fading. The K-fatory pads also comes with springs so the pads are always not touching the disc when you are not braking, giving you more braking power when you need. The only "bad" thing is that this disc "eats" the pads faster than the original disc.
Give it a try when you can, you will not regret.
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Old 12-14-2007, 10:32 AM   #9689
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I'm using the Evo WC, with the aluminium pulley.
The K-factory's G4 disc is a direct fit to the EVO WC brake stopper.
Actually, I had to set the ATL in my radio lower because I had too much braking and this could make my rear belt brake easier. Plus, with the K-fatory pads there is no brake fading. The K-fatory pads also comes with springs so the pads are always not touching the disc when you are not braking, giving you more braking power when you need. The only "bad" thing is that this disc "eats" the pads faster than the original disc.
Give it a try when you can, you will not regret.

I acutally have a K-factory G-4 disc on my car. When I got the K-car I wanted to upgrade the brakes. I ordered a K-factory disc, but got the older style. I had a ton of G4 parts from a car I had purchased from a friend and found a brake disc that fit. It is slightly too tall, and rubbed a very small groove in the plastic piece that holds the rear bulkheads together. I know it wouldn't be an issue as the rub was very slight and the disc would just make the space it needs. As for the pads, K-factory stuff is difficult to find domestically and I always try to stay with the Kyosho factory parts.
As I had stated I have never tried the K-factory pads, but I can say I have had zero fade issues with the Kyosho APP pads. My first set is still on the car. They haven't worn out or come unglued.
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Old 12-14-2007, 10:49 AM   #9690
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I acutally have a K-factory G-4 disc on my car. When I got the K-car I wanted to upgrade the brakes. I ordered a K-factory disc, but got the older style. I had a ton of G4 parts from a car I had purchased from a friend and found a brake disc that fit. It is slightly too tall, and rubbed a very small groove in the plastic piece that holds the rear bulkheads together. I know it wouldn't be an issue as the rub was very slight and the disc would just make the space it needs. As for the pads, K-factory stuff is difficult to find domestically and I always try to stay with the Kyosho factory parts.
As I had stated I have never tried the K-factory pads, but I can say I have had zero fade issues with the Kyosho APP pads. My first set is still on the car. They haven't worn out or come unglued.
Ok, if you happy with the app pads and you can find them better than k-factory parts that's ok. for me is difficult to find both of them, so I ordered the k-fatory pads from rc-mush.
I'm using the APP pads on my FW05RR and they are good, but I prefer the k-factory pads. When they worn out I'm going to get k-factory pads for my FW05RR too for sure.
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