R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-17-2007, 10:29 AM   #9601
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 409
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid View Post
Regardless if I run 40's all round or 42's all round, the rear tyres are wearing down a lot more than the fronts. I can use the fronts for 2 heats and gets about 1mm of wear.

I true the tyres down to 60mm rear, 58mm front with 1-2mm front droop and 5-6mm rear droop.

The care setup is stock otherwise, with 2 deg camber on the front and 3 on the back.

Any reason why Im getting heaps more tyre wear on the rears? Can I get rid of this with another setup?
Even though it's a lot of fun to drive..... if your car is loose out of the corners you could be just burning the back tires off. Have you tried running 40 fronts and 42 rears? This will help the tires wear more evenly and keep the car balanced throughout your runs. Does your track have good traction?
I normally run 42 fronts and 45 rears from Jaco. Even if the track doesn't have a ton of traction it is worth trying. The harder tire doesn't flex as much and can make the car feel more locked in.
Andy who? is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2007, 05:49 PM   #9602
Tech Adept
 
KyoshoKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy who? View Post
Even though it's a lot of fun to drive..... if your car is loose out of the corners you could be just burning the back tires off. Have you tried running 40 fronts and 42 rears? This will help the tires wear more evenly and keep the car balanced throughout your runs. Does your track have good traction?
I normally run 42 fronts and 45 rears from Jaco. Even if the track doesn't have a ton of traction it is worth trying. The harder tire doesn't flex as much and can make the car feel more locked in.
Our track is high grip as they spray VHT. Ive always used the same shore front and rear, I have tried both 40 and 42 all round (I use ZAC tyres), the 42's dont wear as much but still wear out.

Actually, yes, my car is a bit loose on power coming out of some corners of the track (a fast S section) and after my last 20min final the front tyres were flat (which is good) but the rears were coning a fair bit on the outside (which is bad) so I was told to go to 4deg camber on the rears so they wear out flat or even cone towards the inside - this could solve the loose out of coners???

I will try 4deg camber on the rears, maybe this will get rid of the loose on power out of corners and hence resolve the wear on the rears.
KyoshoKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 06:41 AM   #9603
Tech Addict
 
trickd122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 509
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid View Post
Our track is high grip as they spray VHT. Ive always used the same shore front and rear, I have tried both 40 and 42 all round (I use ZAC tyres), the 42's dont wear as much but still wear out.

Actually, yes, my car is a bit loose on power coming out of some corners of the track (a fast S section) and after my last 20min final the front tyres were flat (which is good) but the rears were coning a fair bit on the outside (which is bad) so I was told to go to 4deg camber on the rears so they wear out flat or even cone towards the inside - this could solve the loose out of coners???

I will try 4deg camber on the rears, maybe this will get rid of the loose on power out of corners and hence resolve the wear on the rears.
Yes going to more camber will give more contact patch, more contact patch = more traction.
trickd122 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 10:48 AM   #9604
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid View Post
Our track is high grip as they spray VHT. Ive always used the same shore front and rear, I have tried both 40 and 42 all round (I use ZAC tyres), the 42's dont wear as much but still wear out.

Actually, yes, my car is a bit loose on power coming out of some corners of the track (a fast S section) and after my last 20min final the front tyres were flat (which is good) but the rears were coning a fair bit on the outside (which is bad) so I was told to go to 4deg camber on the rears so they wear out flat or even cone towards the inside - this could solve the loose out of coners???

I will try 4deg camber on the rears, maybe this will get rid of the loose on power out of corners and hence resolve the wear on the rears.
Hmmm... Just some thoughts...

Take a look at your camber rise - the length of your camber link. It affects dynamic camber - versus the static camber you dial in on the setup board.

Also, what body are you running? Some are more loose out of the corners than others.
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 05:06 PM   #9605
Tech Adept
 
KyoshoKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Hmmm... Just some thoughts...

Take a look at your camber rise - the length of your camber link. It affects dynamic camber - versus the static camber you dial in on the setup board.

Also, what body are you running? Some are more loose out of the corners than others.
The length of the camber links were done as per the manual i.e. 6mm gap between the ball ends then adjusted them on using my setup board to 3deg. So by setting 3deg on a setup board may not really be 3mm? Will it be better to use a camber gauge instead?

Im running a Protoform Mazda 6 shell.
KyoshoKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 08:15 PM   #9606
Tech Master
 
roadrage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Palm Bay, FL.
Posts: 1,224
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid View Post
The length of the camber links were done as per the manual i.e. 6mm gap between the ball ends then adjusted them on using my setup board to 3deg. So by setting 3deg on a setup board may not really be 3mm? Will it be better to use a camber gauge instead?

Im running a Protoform Mazda 6 shell.
you better be getting the RRR ready tommy!
__________________
Austin Wolfe
Serpent America-Trinity/Revtech-www.ActivRC.com
roadrage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 11:06 PM   #9607
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid View Post
The length of the camber links were done as per the manual i.e. 6mm gap between the ball ends then adjusted them on using my setup board to 3deg. So by setting 3deg on a setup board may not really be 3mm? Will it be better to use a camber gauge instead?
I apologize for any confusion I may have caused. You don't need to buy a camber guage. This might help explain things a little bit better:
http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/camber.html

Some times I get my RRRs mixed up. The RRR Evo and non-Evo with the VZW207 option part allow you to change the camber link length. KM Group also has a rear camber plate that allows you to change the position and length of the camber link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid View Post
Im running a Protoform Mazda 6 shell.
If you know another RRR owner that uses a different body style, perhaps you can run a few laps with it to see the difference.
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4

Last edited by rmdhawaii; 09-18-2007 at 11:42 PM. Reason: "length of the camber link" - not "length of the camber plate"
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 11:48 PM   #9608
Tech Adept
 
KyoshoKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
I apologize for any confusion I may have caused. You don't need to buy a camber guage. This might help explain things a little bit better:
http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/camber.html

Some times I get my RRRs mixed up. The RRR Evo and non-Evo with the VZW207 option part allow you to change the camber link length. KM Group also has a rear camber plate that allows you to change the position and length of the camber plate.


If you know another RRR owner that uses a different body style, perhaps you can run a few laps with it to see the difference.
From that link you provided:
- HIGHER camber link = more on-power steering (Best for smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners)
- LOWER camber link = less on-power steering (Best for quick direction change tracks)

I dont have those option parts so I cannot change the length of the camber links. But you have 2 holes to chose from to screw in the camber links - upper and lower. Isnt this the same thing?
__________________
-------------------------------------------------
Control the mind, control the finger, control the car
-------------------------------------------------
KyoshoKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2007, 01:57 AM   #9609
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid View Post
From that link you provided:
- HIGHER camber link = more on-power steering (Best for smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners)
- LOWER camber link = less on-power steering (Best for quick direction change tracks)

I dont have those option parts so I cannot change the length of the camber links. But you have 2 holes to chose from to screw in the camber links - upper and lower. Isnt this the same thing?
Same thing. You will also find that you have to change the length of the link to get 3 degrees of camber.

I remember reading something about using more than 3 degrees camber a while back, but couldn't remember where. I finally found it. It's in the XRAY T2 '007 setup guide. Not quite sure how it applies to nitro, as this is the only document that I've ever seen with this advice, but it's certainly something to take into consideration.

Check the diameters of the inner and outer edges of each tire after each run. Pay particular attention to the side of the car that wears the tires down the fastest as this side will shoulder the greatest amount of cornering forces for any given track. Treat both front and rear tire pairs separately, even if they are the same compound. If either tires outer edges within a front or rear pair have a smaller diameter than their inner edges, then increase the static camber in 0.5 increments, rotate the tires from left to right and track test them again. Keep increasing the static camber until the tires wear evenly flat on the front, and one or both of the rear tires wear just a little bit more on their inside edges (no more than 0.1mm after two or more runs). If you follow these steps and reach -3.0 camber on a set and one or both of them are still wearing the outside edge, then you need to increase the amount of negative camber rise on the outside wheel as the suspension compresses during cornering. This is accomplished through shortening the camber links by moving the inner pivot point to an outer position using the XRAY Quick Roll Centers™ adjustment. If you are already using the outer holes, then you can use shims between the outer pivot ball joints and the hubs to raise them up so that the camber link rods slant downward from the outside in towards the center of the car. Slanting the camber links also increases negative camber rise. However, increasing the slant angle of the camber links will raise the roll center at that end of the car as well.

Hope this helps.
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2007, 02:43 AM   #9610
Tech Apprentice
 
johnypiston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 62
Default

I battled for ages to nail down the rear end of my RRR. What finally did it was to move the camber link to the "IN" ....or "Lower" hole. You called it lower ...on the setup sheet it's described as "IN". This, you will notice, will make your camber link slightly longer and will allow the rear to roll more ...thus providing more grip.
I made the change after looking at a bunch of team driver setups sheets ...ALL of them run the car with the camber link set to the "IN" position. Try it ...I don't think you will ever go back.
Also ...you might find the Parma and/or Stratus 3.1 bodies will further calm the rear ...at the expense of some steering ....but that' usually not a problem with the RRR.

Oh ...if you make the camber link change, you will have to shave some material off the ballends that are closest to the bulkheads ...the steeper angle will make them bind
__________________
Mugen Seiki MTX4-R | Ninja MR12 TA01 | Hitech| Kawahara Tyres

SAMWA M11

"Ah, but a man's reach should exceed his grasp, Or what's a heaven for?"
-Robert Browning
johnypiston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2007, 03:46 AM   #9611
Tech Master
 
doc56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,056
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnypiston View Post
I battled for ages to nail down the rear end of my RRR. What finally did it was to move the camber link to the "IN" ....or "Lower" hole. You called it lower ...on the setup sheet it's described as "IN". This, you will notice, will make your camber link slightly longer and will allow the rear to roll more ...thus providing more grip.
I made the change after looking at a bunch of team driver setups sheets ...ALL of them run the car with the camber link set to the "IN" position. Try it ...I don't think you will ever go back.
Also ...you might find the Parma and/or Stratus 3.1 bodies will further calm the rear ...at the expense of some steering ....but that' usually not a problem with the RRR.

Oh ...if you make the camber link change, you will have to shave some material off the ballends that are closest to the bulkheads ...the steeper angle will make them bind
Are u using a 2mm spacer at the rear wheel hub?? if u do then i think that might be the source of the problem...From my point of view, by lengthening the camber link u loose camber gain and eventually progressive traction. The more your car roll, the higher the chances of the car to traction roll or might eventually break traction. To get superior traction u must maximize the length of the lower arm and then using the upper link to fine tune i.e. camber gain, roll center and the inital camber.
__________________
No Race No Life
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall
Torque is how far you take the wall with you
doc56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2007, 04:16 AM   #9612
Tech Apprentice
 
johnypiston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 62
Default

I actually removed the spacer when I made the change ...I was very conscious of having TOO MUCH roll. I also use the rollbar to make sure things do not go too far. Ofourse ...springs and dampening can also help. Still, you make some good points ...I still have quite a few areas to fine tune on the car.
__________________
Mugen Seiki MTX4-R | Ninja MR12 TA01 | Hitech| Kawahara Tyres

SAMWA M11

"Ah, but a man's reach should exceed his grasp, Or what's a heaven for?"
-Robert Browning
johnypiston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2007, 03:02 PM   #9613
Tech Fanatic
 
robert maestrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miramar
Posts: 906
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by roadrage View Post
you better be getting the RRR ready tommy!
Dont think thats the tommy you thinking of Austin....? is are you ready
__________________
Sippin Coladas and Chillin
robert maestrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2007, 04:50 PM   #9614
Tech Adept
 
KyoshoKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

thanks for the advice guys.

I now understand, I had a look at the rear camber camber links and they are a certain length in OUT and when you put them into the IN hole it moves the entire knuckle up increasing the camber and to keep 3deg camber you have to "lengthen" the camber link to move the knuckle down.

The question now is, do you have:
- 3 or 4deg camber in IN position
- 3 or 4deg camber in OUT position

I guess the best way is to try them both
__________________
-------------------------------------------------
Control the mind, control the finger, control the car
-------------------------------------------------
KyoshoKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2007, 04:54 PM   #9615
Tech Adept
 
kyoshokidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 99
Default

i have 3 d's in mine didnt relize someone had such a close name and austin i am ready are u
__________________
*Kyosho USA*
*Murnan Modified Motors*
*TQ FUELS*
*RB concepts*
I love the smell of nitro in the morning
kyoshokidd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE - Mugen MBX5T ProSpec and Kyosho STR with chassis conversion and Kyosho big MattWells R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 04-28-2017 10:25 AM
1986 1/12 Kyosho Plazma MKIII With Kyosho LeMan 600E Motor Funkymojo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 05-17-2012 11:11 AM
Custom painted Kyosho SP2 and Kyosho STRR bodies.... RC3 Graphics SWEET W/ PICS CRFXXXT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 01-07-2008 07:38 PM
MACH. 28/NEW PS, KYOSHO MINI INFERNO ST/W/3NEW IB1400 8 CELL PACKS, KYOSHO 1./8 BUGGY newbie2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-18-2007 06:07 PM
Convert Kyosho Quick Start system on Kyosho QRC to Pullstart Morpheus2be Monster Trucks 0 02-16-2005 11:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:28 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net