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Old 08-26-2007, 01:17 AM   #9571
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Order a spare con rod as well.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:23 AM   #9572
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Order a spare con rod as well.
Yes I did and the manifold gasket too...
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:54 AM   #9573
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Smart!!! Before you attach the manifold to the engine, put a bit of grease on the gasket. That is probably the weak spot of this setup. They tear a bit more easily than I would like.
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:21 PM   #9574
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Smart!!! Before you attach the manifold to the engine, put a bit of grease on the gasket. That is probably the weak spot of this setup. They tear a bit more easily than I would like.
What is the best Engine Temp are you running ?
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:34 PM   #9575
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What is the best Engine Temp are you running ?
Don't really tune to temps. Some engines I have never put a temp gun on. One thing our team manager has been doing regarding temps is tuning by temp change. Warm the engine and tune it to run well with some visible smoke. Temp it. Run some more, then temp it again. What he looks for is the change. IF the temp continues to rise eventually the engine will lean bog. Thats too lean. He looks for it to stabilize. We just want it to run as fast as possible, without it getting so hot that the motor lays over near the end of a tank, or eating plugs. Lots of things will have an effect on the engine temps so I don't want to put a number to tune to, but I would say in the 250-280F would be a general area. Performance (good/bad) will determine what the right temp is. If it runs fast (not too rich), doesn't eat plugs, doesn't pit the piston or button, and doesn't lean bog, it is tuned correctly.
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:13 PM   #9576
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Don't really tune to temps. Some engines I have never put a temp gun on. One thing our team manager has been doing regarding temps is tuning by temp change. Warm the engine and tune it to run well with some visible smoke. Temp it. Run some more, then temp it again. What he looks for is the change. IF the temp continues to rise eventually the engine will lean bog. Thats too lean. He looks for it to stabilize. We just want it to run as fast as possible, without it getting so hot that the motor lays over near the end of a tank, or eating plugs. Lots of things will have an effect on the engine temps so I don't want to put a number to tune to, but I would say in the 250-280F would be a general area. Performance (good/bad) will determine what the right temp is. If it runs fast (not too rich), doesn't eat plugs, doesn't pit the piston or button, and doesn't lean bog, it is tuned correctly.
Hmmmmm I'll tried that....thanks
PS Hopefully the motor doesn't eat too many plugs me get it right lol
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Old 08-26-2007, 05:06 PM   #9577
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The engine I ran has two races on it and hasn't blown a plug yet, but if you get it wrong the plug will pop like any other engine.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:27 PM   #9578
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The engine I ran has two races on it and hasn't blown a plug yet, but if you get it wrong the plug will pop like any other engine.
Got it ..thanks Scott
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Old 08-26-2007, 07:40 PM   #9579
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So what is the reason for running the 2d clutch over the 3 shoe. I am going to buy an extra clutch assembly but I didn't know if I should stick with the three shoe or go with the 2 shoe/4shoe setup. Is there any advantages. I have been running a regular OS tz but I had the chance to run a hot mods novarossi this weekend and maybe will run it the rest of the season and wanted another clutch.

Any opinioons??
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Old 08-26-2007, 07:40 PM   #9580
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So what is the reason for running the 2d clutch over the 3 shoe. I am going to buy an extra clutch assembly but I didn't know if I should stick with the three shoe or go with the 2 shoe/4shoe setup. Is there any advantages. I have been running a regular OS tz but I had the chance to run a hot mods novarossi this weekend and maybe will run it the rest of the season and wanted another clutch.

Any opinions??
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:52 PM   #9581
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I have both clutches and the 2d seems to have better launch. Some engines dont need it, and some tracks dont have the grip, but when you want it, its there. On the IDM engine, I ran the 3d clutch. On the JP and STI the 2d was the ticket. I know it sucks because clutches can be expensive.
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Last edited by Scott Fisher; 08-27-2007 at 03:10 AM.
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Old 08-26-2007, 10:41 PM   #9582
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Joehwee - u drive 3r???? can u tell me the performance n realbility this car. can u give me ur setup n r u using diff or one way
if ur gonna us diff use 30,000 weight as a good starting point for the front diff and 10,000 in the rear
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:04 PM   #9583
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Who got the 2D or 4D clutch set up for sell...I might like to try out to compare my 3d clutch .....I'm runny the sirio STI evo 3 right now...
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:04 AM   #9584
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Who got the 2D or 4D clutch set up for sell...I might like to try out to compare my 3d clutch .....I'm runny the sirio STI evo 3 right now...
Aside from ordering straight from Kyosho, I can't tell you who might have the clutch in stock. Perhaps Kamikaze does. Get the 2d clutch and just order a package of the flyweights as well. It works very well on the STI.

When you get your IDM engine, use the collet that comes with the engine, not the one that comes with the clutch. You may have to dremel down the collet so it doesn't stick through the flywheel. For the STI engine use the collet that comes with the clutch. For both you will have to use a shim or two between the flywheel and the engine.
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:29 AM   #9585
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IDM EVO 3. contact www.teamxspower.comThe 2d and 4d clutch both have 4 pins, but the 2d and 4d use some different parts. They are both made by Kyosho.
what different parts are they. are they just the spring and fly-weights

thanks
Chris
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