R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-06-2007, 03:40 PM   #9181
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 660
Default

I think I remember reading somewhere that there is going to be a JP Modified version of the OS TZ? No?
__________________
Kyosho V-One RRR - JP Modified Mugen X12 - GQ Racing Tires - Futaba servos - KO Helios w/Spektrum Pro - Maxy's Fuel
Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR for fun times
Dredd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2007, 04:27 PM   #9182
Tech Master
 
Ivan Dickson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cali Love USA
Posts: 1,643
Trader Rating: 12 (93%+)
Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
I think I remember reading somewhere that there is going to be a JP Modified version of the OS TZ? No?
Yes that's true for over a year now.
__________________
SPECIAL THANKS TO ✦ MY WIFE ✦✦ MOTIV RC ✦✦ GRAVITY RC ✦✦ JGO PAINTZ ✦✦ TQ RC RACEWAY ✦✦ TAMIYA RACEWAY ✦
Ivan Dickson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2007, 04:37 PM   #9183
Tech Fanatic
 
huskerfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: HuskerNation
Posts: 956
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Just my 2 cents on a stock TZ 3-port, which JRRobiso is thinking of getting.

I guess my definition of "big event" is different than yours...

Do you think a stock TZ could win the U.S. Nats, IFMAR Worlds, European Championships or Winternats?
In the right drivers hands I would say yes.

Hara won us Nats with a off the shelf motor
huskerfreak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2007, 04:39 PM   #9184
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 660
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by huskerfreak
In the right drivers hands I would say yes.

Hara won us Nats with a off the shelf motor
But...was that motor an OS?
__________________
Kyosho V-One RRR - JP Modified Mugen X12 - GQ Racing Tires - Futaba servos - KO Helios w/Spektrum Pro - Maxy's Fuel
Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR for fun times
Dredd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2007, 10:34 AM   #9185
Tech Champion
 
tony montana's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Leonardtown Md.
Posts: 6,145
Trader Rating: 66 (100%+)
Default

I have a eb mods tz in in rrr, and it is a rocket. My engine and the jp modifieds are running neck and neck
__________________
K.C. Guy- TLR- Horrizon Hobby- Team Trinity- 92 zero designs- AKA
tony montana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2007, 10:10 PM   #9186
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 660
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
I have a eb mods tz in in rrr, and it is a rocket. My engine and the jp modifieds are running neck and neck
I think the tracks you run on play a big role in this comparison, but any quality motor should be ok generally. Can't ever make up for driving skill just with an engine that's for sure.
__________________
Kyosho V-One RRR - JP Modified Mugen X12 - GQ Racing Tires - Futaba servos - KO Helios w/Spektrum Pro - Maxy's Fuel
Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR for fun times
Dredd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2007, 05:56 PM   #9187
Tech Champion
 
C_O_jones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wa.
Posts: 9,055
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Crank nut question:
To use a non-SG crank engine with the 3D clutch assy, is the Kyosho part#
VZW222-02 SP flywheel nut, the right part?
found it in the option list, but no pic available.
Thanks, Fred
__________________
Bacon is Meat Candy
C_O_jones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 06:52 AM   #9188
A
Tech Initiate
 
A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 37
Send a message via MSN to A
Default centax slip

someone shed some light please.. i have read the kb's and cefx site on the detailed setup... i have an os tz12 with centax 3d clutch on my rrr evowc, just stock parts from the kit. I have installed the shim behind the flywheel and collet. I adjusted the clutch as illustrated in the setup manual. 1.2mm on shoe spring and .5 on the endplay.

the first time i fired the car up it worked fine but was engaging @ too high rpm, so i took the bell housing off and unscrewed the spring tensioner to about .8, when turning the spring tension nut anti clockwise i did not realise at the time but the flywheel nut had slightly unscrewed as well as the actual spring tensioner moving the whole clutch assembly slightly away from the flywheel. i then put the bell housing back onto the motor, ensuring the bell housing was just free of the clutch shoe and endplay was .5.

After restarting the engine, the clutch would no longer engage more than a split second on initial startup / 1st rev.. then it will not bite and just seem to slip.

I have removed the flywheel and collet and checked all surfaces, the flywheel is definately not slipping on the collet or the crank..

I have got the spring tension set dialed in so the clutch shoe is moving out when the engine revs on about .8. It is not consistant, sometimes it will grab a little then it wont... is it possible my clutch shoe has been glazed by earlier rubbing and is the cause of these symptoms.. or am i missing something. i have checked and double checked clearence and endplay on housing..
A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 01:49 PM   #9189
Tech Master
 
drfritz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Vancouver Wa usa
Posts: 1,769
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by A
someone shed some light please.. i have read the kb's and cefx site on the detailed setup... i have an os tz12 with centax 3d clutch on my rrr evowc, just stock parts from the kit. I have installed the shim behind the flywheel and collet. I adjusted the clutch as illustrated in the setup manual. 1.2mm on shoe spring and .5 on the endplay.

the first time i fired the car up it worked fine but was engaging @ too high rpm, so i took the bell housing off and unscrewed the spring tensioner to about .8, when turning the spring tension nut anti clockwise i did not realise at the time but the flywheel nut had slightly unscrewed as well as the actual spring tensioner moving the whole clutch assembly slightly away from the flywheel. i then put the bell housing back onto the motor, ensuring the bell housing was just free of the clutch shoe and endplay was .5.

After restarting the engine, the clutch would no longer engage more than a split second on initial startup / 1st rev.. then it will not bite and just seem to slip.

I have removed the flywheel and collet and checked all surfaces, the flywheel is definately not slipping on the collet or the crank..

I have got the spring tension set dialed in so the clutch shoe is moving out when the engine revs on about .8. It is not consistant, sometimes it will grab a little then it wont... is it possible my clutch shoe has been glazed by earlier rubbing and is the cause of these symptoms.. or am i missing something. i have checked and double checked clearence and endplay on housing..
make sure you have the back plate on correct.you can flip it backwards and the assy,did that once and the same problem you have. if not scuff the clutch surface, might be glazed.....
drfritz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 02:47 PM   #9190
Tech Champion
 
GMartinez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 8,162
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by A
someone shed some light please.. i have read the kb's and cefx site on the detailed setup... i have an os tz12 with centax 3d clutch on my rrr evowc, just stock parts from the kit. I have installed the shim behind the flywheel and collet. I adjusted the clutch as illustrated in the setup manual. 1.2mm on shoe spring and .5 on the endplay.

the first time i fired the car up it worked fine but was engaging @ too high rpm, so i took the bell housing off and unscrewed the spring tensioner to about .8, when turning the spring tension nut anti clockwise i did not realise at the time but the flywheel nut had slightly unscrewed as well as the actual spring tensioner moving the whole clutch assembly slightly away from the flywheel. i then put the bell housing back onto the motor, ensuring the bell housing was just free of the clutch shoe and endplay was .5.

After restarting the engine, the clutch would no longer engage more than a split second on initial startup / 1st rev.. then it will not bite and just seem to slip.

I have removed the flywheel and collet and checked all surfaces, the flywheel is definately not slipping on the collet or the crank..

I have got the spring tension set dialed in so the clutch shoe is moving out when the engine revs on about .8. It is not consistant, sometimes it will grab a little then it wont... is it possible my clutch shoe has been glazed by earlier rubbing and is the cause of these symptoms.. or am i missing something. i have checked and double checked clearence and endplay on housing..
I would invest in the kyosho shim kit & change your shoe make sure the flyweheel nut is not scrubbing the collet that might cause it to loosen even though you think it's tight.
__________________
www.fullthrottlercraceway.com
Home of The U.S. World Nitro Cup 2013,2014,2015,2016
2014 Roar Electric Nationals, IFMAR ISTC Worlds, 2015 Roar Fuel Nationals
2017 U.S.World Nitro Cup Nov 29th - Dec 3rd
U.S.Open Fuel Championship Returning soon
GMartinez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 06:10 PM   #9191
A
Tech Initiate
 
A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 37
Send a message via MSN to A
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by drfritz
make sure you have the back plate on correct.you can flip it backwards and the assy,did that once and the same problem you have. if not scuff the clutch surface, might be glazed.....
the backplate being metal plate between the shoe and the 3 x white plastic counter weights, i have checked this and all parts are on exactly as the manual states, i did also try to rough the surface with some rough sand paper hoping that that was the cause..
A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 06:31 PM   #9192
A
Tech Initiate
 
A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 37
Send a message via MSN to A
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez
I would invest in the kyosho shim kit & change your shoe make sure the flyweheel nut is not scrubbing the collet that might cause it to loosen even though you think it's tight.
have purchased spare shims, been over the collet thing twice already, checking the clearance of the collet to the shaft and the length of the collet opposed to the flywheel, i marked the surfaces with small amount of paint inside the flywheel and you could see the flywheel isnt moving or slipping from the nut or collet, i have it quite tight. the washer behind the flywheel has clearence also from the collet and no parts are rubbing..

There cant be much else!! ive just inspected all parts closely and have just noticed the spring actually has some scrubbing on the end!!, the spring has not been machined properly @ the factory and its rubbing just slightly on the flywheel nut.. ill make more chamfer on spring and hope this is it!
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho v-one rrr-dsc00236.jpg  

Last edited by A; 04-09-2007 at 10:43 PM.
A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 06:34 PM   #9193
Tech Addict
 
carkillaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 687
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by A
have purchased spare shims, been over the collet thing twice already, checking the clearance of the collet to the shaft and the length of the collet opposed to the flywheel, i marked the surfaces with small amount of paint inside the flywheel and you could see the flywheel isnt moving or slipping from the nut or collet, i have it quite tight. the washer behind the flywheel has clearence also from the collet and no parts are rubbing, this is what i was sure it was also.

There cant be much else!! ive just inspected all parts closely and have just noticed the spring actually has some scrubbing on the end!!, the spring has not been machined properly @ the factory and its rubbing just slightly on the flywheel nut.. this would make sense as when it first grabs the spring section is cool and just allows the shoe to move forward, but as i rev the engine friction heats up and the spring and nut surfaces and stops it from freely moving the shoe back and forth holding the clutch assy back away from engagement. ill make more chamfer on spring and hope this is it!
Do you have an SG shaft on your OS Tz?
carkillaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2007, 10:25 PM   #9194
A
Tech Initiate
 
A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 37
Send a message via MSN to A
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by carkillaii
Do you have an SG shaft on your OS Tz?
not sure how do you tell the SG shaft? its a 12 TZ(P) 3 port with all stock parts..

The spring clearance has not fixed it either?? this is so frustrating.. im gunna put a new clutch shoe on and see what happens.. By monitoring the clutch shoe and counter weights when the engine is running, they dont move consistently with the rpm.. so it would appear the problem is from the shoe back.. The shoe slides over the pins smoothly, i have not drilled the holes out from stock, there are no burrs on the counter weights..

is it possible the whole clutch could be dodgy? i doubt it but i have no experience with centax so its impossible to tell?? im looking for someone in Melbourne who has experience and will be able to identify the issue and help me out on this.. cheers
A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2007, 02:19 AM   #9195
Tech Master
 
Sp Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,624
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
The shoe slides over the pins smoothly
where have you put the counter weights? - i hope they are in between the flywheel pins and not "through" the pins..

check your PM !
__________________
10 yrs on RC tech ! wow....
Sp Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE - Mugen MBX5T ProSpec and Kyosho STR with chassis conversion and Kyosho big MattWells R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 04-28-2017 10:25 AM
1986 1/12 Kyosho Plazma MKIII With Kyosho LeMan 600E Motor Funkymojo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 05-17-2012 11:11 AM
Custom painted Kyosho SP2 and Kyosho STRR bodies.... RC3 Graphics SWEET W/ PICS CRFXXXT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 01-07-2008 07:38 PM
MACH. 28/NEW PS, KYOSHO MINI INFERNO ST/W/3NEW IB1400 8 CELL PACKS, KYOSHO 1./8 BUGGY newbie2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-18-2007 06:07 PM
Convert Kyosho Quick Start system on Kyosho QRC to Pullstart Morpheus2be Monster Trucks 0 02-16-2005 11:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:07 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net