R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-27-2007, 03:36 PM   #9136
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 660
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickiphorosn
thanks doki,but i'm a litle confused with the clutch.what is the gap you are reffering to?i recently reassempled my clutch according to the instruction manual and i have no gap.the bell is stable and there is no free play for the bell.on the other hand the engine works right with this set of the clutch.i don't know...maybe this tool would help
I don't quite know how to explain the gap on here, but your clutch bell should have just a slight amount of play after you run for a bit. If it's too tight you can burn up the clutch because everything will be binding. Sometimes before I run there is not really any noticable play. After running for a bit it will wiggle just slightly. You don't want too much, just a good amount so that the clutch bell spins freely and isn't binding on the shaft.

Someone can probably explain better than I can.
__________________
Kyosho V-One RRR - JP Modified Mugen X12 - GQ Racing Tires - Futaba servos - KO Helios w/Spektrum Pro - Maxy's Fuel
Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR for fun times
Dredd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2007, 05:52 PM   #9137
Tech Elite
 
doki_doki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cebu City, Philippines and Ocala, Florida, USA
Posts: 3,840
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickiphorosn
thanks doki,but i'm a litle confused with the clutch.what is the gap you are reffering to?i recently reassempled my clutch according to the instruction manual and i have no gap.the bell is stable and there is no free play for the bell.on the other hand the engine works right with this set of the clutch.i don't know...maybe this tool would help
It's the gap that you will notice when you pull on the clutch bell after assembling it. The clutch gap is set to 0.5 according to the manual if I remember it right. This will allow you clutch bell to rotate freely when you give it a spin. From what I have read from the different threads, your clutch bell should spin for at least 5 seconds. It not, you clutch shoe is dragging on your clutch bell... The gap increases as the clutch shoes wear out. So you have to reshim it again to get the appopriate gap. Hope this helps
doki_doki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2007, 09:11 PM   #9138
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
I wouldn't say full throttle, but you should be able to put some throttle into it to progress through the turn onto the next straight. That all depends on the turn, and what's after it. If it's a sweeper into another straight then maybe you can go all out. If it's a tighter turn into a short straight maybe it would be better to blip the throttle slightly through the turn and then go to 1/4 or 1/2 at the exit. It also depends on how you drive. Some people setup the car to stick and some like a little bit of drift.
Thanks!!
is that a bit drafting at the corner will be faster than the steady pass at the corner? I heard yes from someone.

I just feel it need very slow with solid when corner entry.....tried faster corner in and the result is .............straight shoot outside
LateComer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2007, 09:23 PM   #9139
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 660
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LateComer
Thanks!!
is that a bit drafting at the corner will be faster than the steady pass at the corner? I heard yes from someone.

I just feel it need very slow with solid when corner entry.....tried faster corner in and the result is .............straight shoot outside
Try short blips of the throttle through the turn. What I mean is go like this - - - - - where the spaces between are pauses where you are off throttle. See if that works at all. Sometimes it's better than holding throttle to the turn, braking, turning in with no throttle then trying to rev up the engine so much. Controlled bursts help me alot. It's not slow either, it isn't always what the pros do, but we aren't in the A-Main competing for the WC are we?
__________________
Kyosho V-One RRR - JP Modified Mugen X12 - GQ Racing Tires - Futaba servos - KO Helios w/Spektrum Pro - Maxy's Fuel
Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR for fun times
Dredd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2007, 07:14 AM   #9140
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff whiting
What I have found is a front one way under power and a spool on power act about the same. The car will go where you turn it (assuming the car is setup correctly).

JEFF
I have to disagree with this. A one-way will turn much better than a solid, on power or off. A solid axle will push just due to it's design. To turn, one tire must turn faster than the other. A one-way allows this, a solid does not. The car may go where you turn it but not with the same effort.

Just my .02
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2007, 07:29 AM   #9141
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LateComer
Thanks!!
is that a bit drafting at the corner will be faster than the steady pass at the corner? I heard yes from someone.

I just feel it need very slow with solid when corner entry.....tried faster corner in and the result is .............straight shoot outside
I would recommend that you work on your setup a bit. To run a solid front axle you may have to change the setup to get more steering. If you were running a "stock" setup with a one-way and changed to a solid, the car would not turn as well. Fortunetly, the RRR has so much steering that it's usually easy to fix.
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2007, 11:00 AM   #9142
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Athens
Posts: 213
Default clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
I don't quite know how to explain the gap on here, but your clutch bell should have just a slight amount of play after you run for a bit. If it's too tight you can burn up the clutch because everything will be binding. Sometimes before I run there is not really any noticable play. After running for a bit it will wiggle just slightly. You don't want too much, just a good amount so that the clutch bell spins freely and isn't binding on the shaft.

Someone can probably explain better than I can.
thanks guys for the help.
nickiphorosn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2007, 05:49 PM   #9143
Tech Addict
 
Dynamite's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 614
Send a message via MSN to Dynamite
Default

solid or one-way both have their uses, i used to prefer the one-way and still use it alot in my rrr for tracks that dont require alot of braking as braking with a one-way can be a delicate task in the heat of battle.

I more so use the solid alot more in my rrr now and have grown to love it especially for tight technical tracks or for tracks that require alot of braking it works well, imo the solid works well for a more aggressive driving style.
__________________
www.racingfactory.org
Kyosho RRR Evo | Sirio Evo III STI | Ko Radio
Dynamite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2007, 11:23 PM   #9144
Tech Adept
 
KyoshoKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I found the following item at RC-Mushroom: KY-VZW009 - Kyosho V1RRR EVO TCD Gear Set.

How different is this to the standard diff? Can it be used for the rear diff as Im using a front one-way?
__________________
-------------------------------------------------
Control the mind, control the finger, control the car
-------------------------------------------------
KyoshoKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 02:09 AM   #9145
Tech Apprentice
 
H4gI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 83
Default

I drive diff with 100`000 Oil it`s not so aggressiv like the Solid.

Greetz
__________________
Team NFC
LRP
CAP
Nitro-mechanic-bitch of E.D. and R.V.
H4gI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 06:45 AM   #9146
Tech Elite
 
maskedrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MP9 is here ...stay tune !
Posts: 2,039
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

hey guys, may i know what is the better way to drain out the glow heater ? currently most in the market are using NIcad battery...
thanks
__________________
Kyosho- Sirio/ OS engine- AVID bearing- Blue thunder fuel- Proline- RC dynamite- Sanwa- RC Art
maskedrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 03:31 PM   #9147
Tech Adept
 
Nosram's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Spring, Texas, USA
Posts: 143
Default

If you mean discharge the glow igniter battery, because you want to cycle it as it is a NiCad......... then I would just plug it into an old glow plug. Just wait until the plug stops glowing and then recharge it.
Nosram is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 03:46 PM   #9148
Tech Elite
 
Derby Bros Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,209
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
hey guys, may i know what is the better way to drain out the glow heater ? currently most in the market are using NIcad battery...
thanks
I used to use a flashlight bulb. It takes a while but it works and drains the glow ignitor.
Derby Bros Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 08:20 PM   #9149
Tech Elite
 
maskedrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MP9 is here ...stay tune !
Posts: 2,039
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nosram
If you mean discharge the glow igniter battery, because you want to cycle it as it is a NiCad......... then I would just plug it into an old glow plug. Just wait until the plug stops glowing and then recharge it.

wow....won't the glow heater be very hot after that ??



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
I used to use a flashlight bulb. It takes a while but it works and drains the glow ignitor.
i heard someothers use this bulb things... but need to find those are 12v bulb which also need to fit nicely into the heater itself.
__________________
Kyosho- Sirio/ OS engine- AVID bearing- Blue thunder fuel- Proline- RC dynamite- Sanwa- RC Art
maskedrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2007, 09:48 PM   #9150
Tech Addict
 
twiggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: sydney, australia
Posts: 710
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

i have a charger lead that looks like a glowplug and it fits straight into the glow heater. i use my supernova competition charger to disharge/charge my igniters.
__________________
www.Moorebankraceway.com

Hamilton 2008 F1 champion!
twiggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE - Mugen MBX5T ProSpec and Kyosho STR with chassis conversion and Kyosho big MattWells R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 04-28-2017 10:25 AM
1986 1/12 Kyosho Plazma MKIII With Kyosho LeMan 600E Motor Funkymojo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 05-17-2012 11:11 AM
Custom painted Kyosho SP2 and Kyosho STRR bodies.... RC3 Graphics SWEET W/ PICS CRFXXXT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 01-07-2008 07:38 PM
MACH. 28/NEW PS, KYOSHO MINI INFERNO ST/W/3NEW IB1400 8 CELL PACKS, KYOSHO 1./8 BUGGY newbie2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-18-2007 06:07 PM
Convert Kyosho Quick Start system on Kyosho QRC to Pullstart Morpheus2be Monster Trucks 0 02-16-2005 11:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:01 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net