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Old 03-24-2007, 08:21 AM   #9106
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If I want more rear traction should I add more rear camber? Right now Im running -1 degree all around. Also what do most of you guys true your tires down to?
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Old 03-24-2007, 11:09 AM   #9107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
If I want more rear traction should I add more rear camber? Right now Im running -1 degree all around. Also what do most of you guys true your tires down to?
stock set up
2deg front camber 4 deg rear camber
droop 0 front 4 rear
ride ht 5 front 6 rear
tires 60 front 62 rear you can go lower but it depends on track grip
Always start off with the stock set up & then make minor adjustments at the track also on shock oil & springs I would need more info are you which car you are running EVO or RRR WCE
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Old 03-24-2007, 08:33 PM   #9108
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im running the rrr wce
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:28 AM   #9109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
If I want more rear traction should I add more rear camber? Right now Im running -1 degree all around. Also what do most of you guys true your tires down to?
Like George said, I would recommend starting with 3.5 - 4 degrees of rear camber, 2 degrees of front and tire size depends upon track conditions but 60f/62r is a good place to start.
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:14 AM   #9110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
im running the rrr wce
Tony you can also start off silver front black rear 60wt all around depending on how smooth the track is you can also go with black springs all around
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:15 AM   #9111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Like George said, I would recommend starting with 3.5 - 4 degrees of rear camber, 2 degrees of front and tire size depends upon track conditions but 60f/62r is a good place to start.
Jim did you go to the hempstead race
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Old 03-25-2007, 03:35 PM   #9112
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Post Recommended brand for Steering, Throttle/Brake Servos

Hello fellow V-One RRR owners. Just joined the group about 2-3 weeks ago. I already received my kit but have not started the build yet. Want to get all the stuff I need to build & run the car (e.g servos, tools, Rx packs & etc).

I normally run electric TC's that's why I need to make sure I have everything I need to build the kit.

So far read the manual (not as much detailed compared to the Tamiya manuals) and was going through the pages & illustrations. In regards to my previous posts, I've considered running OS engines (OS .12TZ(P)-T5 or T3 Port Turbo Engine) for now (might change brand of motor when kit is near completion), however my attention now are the servos.

In my electric TC's, I run Ko Propo's and will be using the PDS-2143 FET 6V 111.0oz 08 sec @ 60 (it's an old model but still works great) for the steering when I build the kit.

Now to my question, can I use the same servo specs for the throttle & brake or do I need one that has a higher torque rating & what would you guys recommend?

I was currently surfing the web (Ko's webpage) and was considering getting their latest high torque servo w/ alum heatsink (PDS-2368 ICS 6V 194.4oz 0.15 sec @ 60).

Any advise or comments will be well appreciated.
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:42 PM   #9113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez
Jim did you go to the hempstead race
No, I couldn't make that race.
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:49 PM   #9114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
Hello fellow V-One RRR owners. Just joined the group about 2-3 weeks ago. I already received my kit but have not started the build yet. Want to get all the stuff I need to build & run the car (e.g servos, tools, Rx packs & etc).

I normally run electric TC's that's why I need to make sure I have everything I need to build the kit.

So far read the manual (not as much detailed compared to the Tamiya manuals) and was going through the pages & illustrations. In regards to my previous posts, I've considered running OS engines (OS .12TZ(P)-T5 or T3 Port Turbo Engine) for now (might change brand of motor when kit is near completion), however my attention now are the servos.

In my electric TC's, I run Ko Propo's and will be using the PDS-2143 FET 6V 111.0oz 08 sec @ 60 (it's an old model but still works great) for the steering when I build the kit.

Now to my question, can I use the same servo specs for the throttle & brake or do I need one that has a higher torque rating & what would you guys recommend?

I was currently surfing the web (Ko's webpage) and was considering getting their latest high torque servo w/ alum heatsink (PDS-2368 ICS 6V 194.4oz 0.15 sec @ 60).

Any advise or comments will be well appreciated.
I am not familiar with KO but I use Futaba S9451 for both steering and throttle. If you are going to use 2 different servos, I would use the better one for the steering. The steering requires more torque than the throttle or brake.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:26 PM   #9115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I am not familiar with KO but I use Futaba S9451 for both steering and throttle. If you are going to use 2 different servos, I would use the better one for the steering. The steering requires more torque than the throttle or brake.
I'd have to agree here. Use the higher speed and higher torque model of the 2 for the steering. The Throttle is not as critical as the steering in the required response and power. I haven't used Ko servos and don't personally know anyone who runs them. Most people stick with Futaba around here.
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Old 03-26-2007, 05:22 AM   #9116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doki_doki
Haven't really tried using the 3racing screws. My friend had a bad experience using 3racing parts especially on the drivetrain areas and the engine mount... So, I ended up buying the Kawahara and Kfactory Option parts for my kit
Then, will you try the others?
You won't buy Kawahara and Kfactory option parts any more??
Other than those brands, anyone have suggestions for newbie?
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:48 AM   #9117
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Thumbs up Airtronics on road Championship My first major race of the year

Airtronics on road Championship was My first major race of the year in amateur class 3 days of racing first day Qual. in the top 3 had great power with JL RED DOT second day had some tuning issues did get some help from two pro drivers Walter Diaz & jeffery Lin special Thanks to those guys for there help by the end of the day I had drop to 8th in qual. that evening went home work on the tuning of the motor myself because I was still having low end problems finally got it striaghten out. Third day was the main had a great start after the first lap I was in 2nd position car was dialed and a 1/2 sec. behind 1st place(Marcelo Marcelli) as the race progress we built a lead on the field I caught up to the 1st place driver who made a mistake and I took the led had a 4sec. led over 2nd place which was another driver(Tony Fileccia) led about 10 laps till second place crash and somehow was place right in front of me when I was passing instead of him having a stop and go he tried to take 1st position from me and took me out and I knew this guy he was reckless in the main I ended up with DNF Besides that I had a fun weekend of racing. Can't wait to the next major race in Las Vegas Mugen Grand Prix in April.
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:13 AM   #9118
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Default Diff Settings

Lately, I have been playing around with several adjustments on my car to improve handling. These include droop, shock oil, roll center etc...

Right now I am back to my diff. I say "back" because I thought I had settled on a setting some months ago that worked fine for me on several tracks, however as I continue to perfect the skill of this sport, I want to make some further adjustments.

I would like to get a consensus on which wt of oil works best on the RRR? (F & R) I use to run a solid, but changed to diff and went with 300K in the front. Very close to the performance of a solid.

I am now considering coming down to a 120K, what can I expect?

I am really trying to learn the science behind the different wt's of oil with their effects and not just try anything.

Thanks for your inputs.
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Old 03-26-2007, 01:14 PM   #9119
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You might say "what is a Mugen guy doing answering this post" but I have some recent experience with this exact scenario and I have a RRR Evo in the family now. Anyway what I found with a front diff with 100 to 120 fluid is, it will act like a solid as you say to point where the traction is high enough to allow the diff to start to give. Then it becomes very unpredictable. The car will pull around sweepers like a solid or a oneway and then all of a sudden start to push wide. We found this to be the case at the recent WinterNats in my Daughters car. The car was just unpredictable. We made no other changes other than switching to a solid front and the car became very predicable and much easier to drive.

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Old 03-26-2007, 01:22 PM   #9120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff whiting
You might say "what is a Mugen guy doing answering this post"
That's so funny Jeff, because that's what I was thinking when I saw your name attached to the thread. I thought, "What's Jeff doing answering a quesiton in the RRR thread? Doesn't he drive a MTX-4?"

BTW.. How did someone manage to sneak a Kyosho into the house? JK!
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