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Old 02-04-2007, 03:05 PM   #8716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
what body would you guys recommend for my rrr wce
stratus 3.1
mazda 6
low bite track parma m
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Old 02-04-2007, 03:06 PM   #8717
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Originally Posted by doki_doki
Anyone of you guys using this tool from Kyosho? It's a pinion tool remover (VZW221). It's is very easy to use and does not damage the pinion gears that you remove and especially the lightened clutch bell. Also, it has a guage in the middle where you can easily use to measure the amount of end play when setting up the clutch




Here's one end for removing the first pinion gear (15T to 17T)


Here's the other end for removing the 2nd pinion gear (20T to 23T)
Just be careful on removing the gears since I see you have the lightweight bell I had bent one of mine before
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Old 02-04-2007, 03:47 PM   #8718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez
stratus 3.1
mazda 6
low bite track parma m
will the parma m work at the w/nats
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Old 02-04-2007, 04:13 PM   #8719
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thanks guys. Were should I order one from. Im on the east coast. Also one more thing, what parts should I stock up on for the v1rrrwce? what hopups if any would you guys recommend.
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:33 PM   #8720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
thanks guys. Were should I order one from. Im on the east coast. Also one more thing, what parts should I stock up on for the v1rrrwce? what hopups if any would you guys recommend.
I would upgrade the brake pads and disk to either the items from K Factory or the Kyosho ones. They provide less brake fade. You could also upgrade the brake arm at the same time. This would be more consistant for you. Next you could upgrade the shafts to titanium since they would be lighter. The general idea is that lighter items offer less resistance thus give higher rpm/speeds. They also have a lightweight clutch bell and flywheel you could look into as well.

All that aside the single most important upgrade IMO would be the gears. Supposedly the stock gears are aluminum and wear out quickly for some people. They do make steel gears that will be much stronger and last alot longer.

Pretty much just minor things and there's not a whole ton of parts that I would replace. Granted I have only owned a RRR WCE for a few days but I did my research and asked alot of questions and heard mostly the same things from everyone.

I'd stock up on extra gears, belts, nuckles, and anything that would break in a crash or wear out over time.

When it comes to "where do I order" here's two things to consider. Firstly ordering parts from rc-mushroom.com or somewhere like that offers you good pricing and the ability to get almost whatever you want. Secondly you have your local LHS who can provide alot of advice and little tips that you won't get from ordering online. It's up to you.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:35 PM   #8721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez
Just be careful on removing the gears since I see you have the lightweight bell I had bent one of mine before
I have already removed my pinion gears from my lightened clutch bell using this tool 4 times already. No damage on the lightened clutch bell so far
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Old 02-04-2007, 08:52 PM   #8722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert maestrey
Dom is running a RRR Evo Wce....the Evo comes with servo upright.....you can convert by ordering a Evo Upper deck for your car...

Ok this is how it works


RRR -laydown
RRR WCE- laydown
RRR EVO- upright
RRR EVo WCE- upright


hope this helps

Robert Maestrey
I've got the site which sells the Evo. upper deck much cheaper!

Evo. upper deck
hope this can help~
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Old 02-04-2007, 08:53 PM   #8723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
I would upgrade the brake pads and disk to either the items from K Factory or the Kyosho ones. They provide less brake fade. You could also upgrade the brake arm at the same time. This would be more consistant for you. Next you could upgrade the shafts to titanium since they would be lighter. The general idea is that lighter items offer less resistance thus give higher rpm/speeds. They also have a lightweight clutch bell and flywheel you could look into as well.

All that aside the single most important upgrade IMO would be the gears. Supposedly the stock gears are aluminum and wear out quickly for some people. They do make steel gears that will be much stronger and last alot longer.

Pretty much just minor things and there's not a whole ton of parts that I would replace. Granted I have only owned a RRR WCE for a few days but I did my research and asked alot of questions and heard mostly the same things from everyone.

I'd stock up on extra gears, belts, nuckles, and anything that would break in a crash or wear out over time.

When it comes to "where do I order" here's two things to consider. Firstly ordering parts from rc-mushroom.com or somewhere like that offers you good pricing and the ability to get almost whatever you want. Secondly you have your local LHS who can provide alot of advice and little tips that you won't get from ordering online. It's up to you.
go to www.kyoshoamerica.com & you will be able to search on shop kyosho & you will see they have steel pinions available
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Old 02-05-2007, 01:50 AM   #8724
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Default My first race with the RRR

Well guys, I finally raced for the first time ever at a club event on Sunday. It was an absolute disaster. My V-ONE RRR just never worked and I think all my problems were caused by the clutch ...but please tell me if I am wrong. Basically I could not put the power down. Coming out of every corner I would have on-power oversteer (fishtailing) . At the transmitter I found that when I gave 1/4 throttle the engine would rev but the car would not move. A little more throttle and the car would put down way too much power which caused the car to push out the rear ...it was undrivable! The only place where it did well was the sweeper and the straight which followed it. So if this is being caused by my clutch, is it the backlash or have I not adjusted the clutch nut properly

Another problem was braking ...I had to dial out most of the breaking force out from my transmitter (EPA). Even so, my car still spun out quite a bit ...something that surprised me considering the track WAS sugared. I take it this is because of the front one way?

Settings wise I had:

Shock Springs: Kyosho Black (F) / Kyosho Gold (R)
Shock Oil: 35 (F) / 30 (R)
DIFF: One Way (F) / DIFF (R)
Diff Oil: 30K
Tyres (Foam): 38 Shore (F) / 38 Shore (R) (all trued to 62mm)
Clutch: Standard Kyosho 3D

This, by the way, is a high grip track. Also, the Front did fairly well but it was hard to judge because most of the time I found myself going into corners too hot (thanks to the amount of power I was putting down and the fact that I was scared to use the brakes!). When I did get things right though (with quick blips of the throttle), the front showed little signs of oversteer. Just to show you how bad all this was: My best lap for the day was a 22.65 ...the fastest lap recorded for the day was a 19.32 ...put down by an MTX4 ...that NEEDS TO CHANGE ...FAST

Last edited by johnypiston; 02-05-2007 at 02:04 AM. Reason: Want notification when people reply to this
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Old 02-05-2007, 01:58 AM   #8725
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Default One more point ...

Considering this was my first race ever ...in a high powered .12 engined PO race car ...should I be embarrassed or even discouraged that the top guy (who has raced for years at this very track) was just 3 seconds faster?
I am curious ...how did you guys do on your VERY FIRST race? ...your virgin race ..so to speak
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Old 02-05-2007, 01:58 AM   #8726
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Default One more point ...

Considering this was my first race ever ...in a high powered .12 engined PRO race car ...should I be embarrassed or even discouraged that the top guy (who has raced for years at this very track) was just 3 seconds faster?
I am curious ...how did you guys do on your VERY FIRST race? ...your virgin race ..so to speak
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:06 AM   #8727
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It sounds like the clutch is probably your fishtailing problem. You can either try reducing the gap and/or loosening the clutch nut thereby reducing the spring tension.

Your braking problem is because of the front one-way. When using a one-way, you have to reduce the brakes to virtually none. You may like running the car with a solid front axle. It takes away a small amount of steering, but you can use lots of brakes as now both axles have brakes.

Don't be discouraged, it is your first race. 3 seconds a lap is a lot but as you said, it is your first race and you have lots of room to get better. It takes time and practice. Practice is your best friend. Run lots of laps and you will notice your lap times getting shorter and shorter.
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:09 AM   #8728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
It sounds like the clutch is probably your fishtailing problem. You can either try reducing the gap and/or loosening the clutch nut thereby reducing the spring tension.

Your braking problem is because of the front one-way. When using a one-way, you have to reduce the brakes to virtually none. You may like running the car with a solid front axle. It takes away a small amount of steering, but you can use lots of brakes as now both axles have brakes.

Don't be discouraged, it is your first race. 3 seconds a lap is a lot but as you said, it is your first race and you have lots of room to get better. It takes time and practice. Practice is your best friend. Run lots of laps and you will notice your lap times getting shorter and shorter.
Yea What Fish Said
Good Job
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:24 AM   #8729
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Default handling issue

Thanks Dudes ..now I know what went wrong. Since there is no-one else at the track who uses the V-One RRR (I chose to buy one cause the distributor is just 1 mile away from my house ), I ended up taking advice from someone who drives an MTX4. He told me to tighten the nut if I wanted the power to come on earlier ...you are telling me I need to losen it for a better bottom end!!!! So I clearly got f'd up advise . Was this a vicious act from a Mugen driver or does the the MTX4 clutch work differently?

After driving the car and experiencing the pain of the One Way, I will definately be getting a Spool. Any recommended online sites?

Yes, 3 seconds is a lot but surely I will make up most of that if my car can be a little more predictable? While on the drivers stand I took the time to see how the fast guys were using the throttle on their transmitters and was shocked to see them apply large doses of throttle coming out of corners (up to half throttle!). If I did the same thing with my car, it would have done a 360 degree spin!!! Surely I can make up at LEAST two seconds if my bottom end improved. Anyway, I'll let you know how it goes ...thanks for the quick answers!!
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:43 AM   #8730
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Tightening the nut will give you more bottom end. The problem you are having is that either you have too much, which is causing you to spin the rear wheels or you need a little more throttle control with your finger. From your description of the circumstances you need the clutch to engage earlier which will help keep the rear wheels from breaking loose.

I highly doubt that the Mugen driver delibrately gave you incorrect advice, he probably didn't understand what you were trying to achieve. The Mugen clutch works the same way. Once you get your car comfortable to drive, remember what I said.. Practice is your friend.
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