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Old 02-03-2007, 06:34 AM   #8686
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ok.. thanks .. your site is very cool info source.. So is it worth taking the car apart to back them off 1 notch, as u know there are min 4 settings (0 - loose and 4 - tight) and im on 2 or wait untill i am working on the car later to do this.. Im just reluctant bout pulling my beatuful new car apart unnecessarily u know? in your experience do u think this is worth it? ie will it wear pullys/belts/bearings more than normal? thanx

... 1more thing.. ive just assembled my centax using the spacer and it went together beautifully, the manual states the spring collet should be screwed down 1.2mm over the shoulder on the crank..is this a good starting setting?.. i dont have a cluth adjusting tool to screw down the spring collet .. is there anything else that works well for this or does everyone use the correct tool.. think ill just go by one.. im not going to hack it.. good info on clutch gap adjustment on your site too.
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Old 02-03-2007, 06:36 AM   #8687
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i will run the spacer on my o.s between the bearing and flywheel, im putting it all together it now and hoping all goes smoothly.. well ive almost finishing buliding my car and checking over the setup.. Can someone tell me the best setting for the belt tensioners front and rear ive got them on the 2nd most loose setting and they seem to be a good tension, i assume the belts will stretch a little after i run the car.. and any other good heads up on build would be nice..thanx...
IMO I set the belt tension guides opposite l on r r on l & on the tight position & once they get a little loose then I put them back to manual settings & they still have some tension which gives a little more belt life
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Old 02-03-2007, 06:40 AM   #8688
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Originally Posted by A
ok.. thanks .. your site is very cool info source.. So is it worth taking the car apart to back them off 1 notch, as u know there are min 4 settings (0 - loose and 4 - tight) and im on 2 or wait untill i am working on the car later to do this.. Im just reluctant bout pulling my beatuful new car apart unnecessarily u know? in your experience do u think this is worth it? ie will it wear pullys/belts/bearings more than normal? thanx

... 1more thing.. ive just assembled my centax using the spacer and it went together beautifully, the manual states the spring collet should be screwed down 1.2mm over the shoulder on the crank..is this a good starting setting?.. i dont have a cluth adjusting tool to screw down the spring collet .. is there anything else that works well for this or does everyone use the correct tool.. think ill just go by one.. im not going to hack it.. good info on clutch gap adjustment on your site too.
you can use a thin needle nose to tighten the spring if you do not have a caliper adjust the spring down that you can a least see 2 threads of the nut for a starting point but I highly recommend getting a digital caliper
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Old 02-03-2007, 06:41 AM   #8689
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What's up SMOKE see ya lurking when you gonna get a nitro car
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:05 AM   #8690
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k, thanx.. i have 2 sets of quality vernier calipers (fine and rough) and have tried to set everything up exactly to spec in the manual..

getting the distance between the hubs and the suspension arms (by adjusting pillow balls) states 3.1mm on the front and 4.5mm on the rear... this is tricky to measure with vernier as the edge has a radius and each measurement seems to have some variation, im going to use feeler gauges to measure this space im thinking this will give me fairly accurate setting..? i suppose ultimately u would use something like a hudy table right?
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:26 AM   #8691
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k, thanx.. i have 2 sets of quality vernier calipers (fine and rough) and have tried to set everything up exactly to spec in the manual..

getting the distance between the hubs and the suspension arms (by adjusting pillow balls) states 3.1mm on the front and 4.5mm on the rear... this is tricky to measure with vernier as the edge has a radius and each measurement seems to have some variation, im going to use feeler gauges to measure this space im thinking this will give me fairly accurate setting..? i suppose ultimately u would use something like a hudy table right?
Good luck & yes on the hudy
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:20 AM   #8692
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hey guys I got the steering servo horn to stop rubbing the tank but now it wont turn full left with out hitting the servo case? I'll take a pic in a few to show you guys
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:28 AM   #8693
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pic
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho v-one rrr-dsc00811.jpg   Kyosho v-one rrr-dsc00812.jpg  
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:16 AM   #8694
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Tony, hard to see from the pics. the servo length and the horn angle when your wheels are straight.

Here's my thought on why you can't turn full left. It could be a couple of reasons. So here are some suggestions to check.

Check to see if you servo is shimmed correctly on the mount. If your servo is closer to the centerline of the car, it might give you more clearance to the servo case, maybe.

Check the angle of your servo horn as well. You might set the horn up so you have full lock to the left and w/o the ballend touching the servo case, then turn full right to see how that setup does.

Give those 2 things a try.

I've attached a picture (the only one I have that you can see the steering servo horn, for your reference. Also the wheels are straight.

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Old 02-03-2007, 09:20 AM   #8695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAT-BOI
i run a vone sIII and i have every hop up avalable but i am not shore what belts would be better the sp or the standard what do u guys think

do the sp belt snap or just strip easier than the norm

and whats the opinion on alloy pullyies are they in or out and do they hug the belt to much
SP belt are softer, to create less drag. Regular belts are naturally longer lasting, but of course not as soft.

As for pulleys, not too familiar with the SIII, but Kyosho own aluminum pulleys are very good, the teeth do not get sharpened like other brands and end up cutting your belt. I only run the aluminum brake pulley.

Dom
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:25 AM   #8696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A
.. i dont have a cluth adjusting tool to screw down the spring collet .. is there anything else that works well for this or does everyone use the correct tool.. think ill just go by one.. im not going to hack it..
I don't have a clutch tool either , I install the spring nut initially with my kung fu grip. If the clutch is assembled and I want to adjust that in the car, I use a pick to lock the spring nut in place and then use a 2.5mm wrench and turn the crank shaft screw to adjust.

Dom
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:46 AM   #8697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I don't have a clutch tool either , I install the spring nut initially with my kung fu grip. If the clutch is assembled and I want to adjust that in the car, I use a pick to lock the spring nut in place and then use a 2.5mm wrench and turn the crank shaft screw to adjust.

Dom
LOL Kung Fu Grip
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Old 02-03-2007, 10:54 AM   #8698
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how did you get your throttle servo to sit up right instead of the laid down position?
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Old 02-03-2007, 11:14 AM   #8699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
how did you get your throttle servo to sit up right instead of the laid down position?

Dom is running a RRR Evo Wce....the Evo comes with servo upright.....you can convert by ordering a Evo Upper deck for your car...

Ok this is how it works


RRR -laydown
RRR WCE- laydown
RRR EVO- upright
RRR EVo WCE- upright


hope this helps

Robert Maestrey
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:22 PM   #8700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A
i suppose ultimately u would use something like a hudy table right?
In my opinion you will never get the suspension setup properly without some type of station.
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