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Old 01-30-2007, 09:14 AM   #8671
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Personally I have had good luck with the Skyline VR12+ pipe and header. It is very strong and gives good power.

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Old 01-30-2007, 09:17 AM   #8672
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Thanks...Found it. Google is a wonderful thing
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:20 AM   #8673
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I got a rrr wce edition kit for sale.
any offers?
kit box and mauel
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Old 01-30-2007, 10:06 AM   #8674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat360xboxhalo3
I got a rrr wce edition kit for sale.
any offers?
kit box and mauel
brand new in box
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Old 01-30-2007, 05:14 PM   #8675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat360xboxhalo3
I got a rrr wce edition kit for sale.
any offers?
kit box and mauel
If you actually mean the RRR Evo WC,,, how much are you asking for it including shipping to New York??
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Old 01-30-2007, 05:15 PM   #8676
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Im using the kyosho collet. also has anyone had issues with the 2 speed rubbing the spur gear housing that it goes into? I have had to shave a very little off the of the 2 speed to prevent the rubbing. I also built the 2 speed per the manual
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:12 PM   #8677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
Im using the kyosho collet. also has anyone had issues with the 2 speed rubbing the spur gear housing that it goes into? I have had to shave a very little off the of the 2 speed to prevent the rubbing. I also built the 2 speed per the manual
Make sure you don't have any backlash on the main shaft that is what causes it to rub on the housing I had that problem in the past & the only way to correct it is the main shaft.
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:17 PM   #8678
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one more thing, what in the heck do I do with all my wireing? Could some post a pic on how they run there servo wires and on off switch as well as my personal transponder
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:39 PM   #8679
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i roll up my wires and cable tie them into a circle just behind the throttle servo there, keep them tight and away from the clutch.

i then just run the battery wire alone and run the cable thru that small hole near the tank.
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Old 02-01-2007, 03:42 PM   #8680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
ok guys Im having serious issues with the clutch. I have a new wce edition im building and I cant get the clutch right. The engine if it matters im using is a new eb mods o.s. tz. Im a newbie at centax clutches so i dont know much about them. The problem is when I have it assembled and go to tighten the cap head screw that threads in the crank the clutch bell wont turn at all when I tighten it fully. Also I did notice that the instructions say to use a shim behind the conlet if nessecarry, which I didnt because the flywheel seems to be to far from the engine bearing anyway, If i must estimate it is like about a 1/4 inch . I have the clutch nut tight as I can get it. So if anyone has a o.s. tz in there rrr let me know how to get this thing right, Im getting frustrated!!! Also rmdhawaii, I love your website, just having a hard time understanding this clutch
I have the same issue with my OS TZ 5P, I was new to building a clutch and I built it incorrecty also. The nut (to screw the flywheel onto the crank shaft) was too loose and I didnt have enough "spacing" and the manual didnt help either with any explanation!!!!

I took it to my local hobby shop and they stuck in some shims (and tightend the nut), they were really thin so I dont know how many there are but in the clutch pic above, the shims added up to 1mm in A and 5mm in B. This spacing gave it the correct distance and now when you tighten everything nothing binds and spins freely.

Hope this helps...
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Old 02-02-2007, 03:24 PM   #8681
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The V1RRR Evo manual comes with a separate 1 page loose set that explains how the set-up the clutch gap. This is way much better explained compared to the one in the manual itself
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:47 PM   #8682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid
I have the same issue with my OS TZ 5P, I was new to building a clutch and I built it incorrecty also. The nut (to screw the flywheel onto the crank shaft) was too loose and I didnt have enough "spacing" and the manual didnt help either with any explanation!!!!

I took it to my local hobby shop and they stuck in some shims (and tightend the nut), they were really thin so I dont know how many there are but in the clutch pic above, the shims added up to 1mm in A and 5mm in B. This spacing gave it the correct distance and now when you tighten everything nothing binds and spins freely.

Hope this helps...
for the manual pg 27 section 44 it will show for proper spacing on the flywheel there is a 7x11 spacer you need to use if there is no space from the motor case & flywheel or you can go to kyosho's website & search this #um213 for a better idea of what it looks like certain motors are different some you have to use the 7x11 spacer as for the O.S. you have to use the spacer
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Old 02-03-2007, 05:09 AM   #8683
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i will run the spacer on my o.s between the bearing and flywheel, im putting it all together it now and hoping all goes smoothly.. well ive almost finishing buliding my car and checking over the setup.. Can someone tell me the best setting for the belt tensioners front and rear ive got them on the 2nd most loose setting and they seem to be a good tension, i assume the belts will stretch a little after i run the car.. and any other good heads up on build would be nice..thanx...
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Old 02-03-2007, 05:33 AM   #8684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A
i will run the spacer on my o.s between the bearing and flywheel, im putting it all together it now and hoping all goes smoothly.. well ive almost finishing buliding my car and checking over the setup.. Can someone tell me the best setting for the belt tensioners front and rear ive got them on the 2nd most loose setting and they seem to be a good tension, i assume the belts will stretch a little after i run the car.. and any other good heads up on build would be nice..thanx...
You want to run your front and rear belts loose.

A few of us here collaborated on some build tips for the RRR WCE, which are posted at my Web site. Link is in the signature.
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Old 02-03-2007, 06:11 AM   #8685
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Default what the better belts

i run a vone sIII and i have every hop up avalable but i am not shore what belts would be better the sp or the standard what do u guys think

do the sp belt snap or just strip easier than the norm

and whats the opinion on alloy pullyies are they in or out and do they hug the belt to much
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