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Old 01-27-2007, 08:18 AM   #8641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hey Tony ~

Go to my RRR Web site and check out he Build Tips. It will give and idea of how to adjust the clutch end play.
Good idea.

Up early this morning Rainer? Or haven't you gone to bed yet?
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Old 01-27-2007, 01:19 PM   #8642
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ok guys Im having serious issues with the clutch. I have a new wce edition im building and I cant get the clutch right. The engine if it matters im using is a new eb mods o.s. tz. Im a newbie at centax clutches so i dont know much about them. The problem is when I have it assembled and go to tighten the cap head screw that threads in the crank the clutch bell wont turn at all when I tighten it fully. Also I did notice that the instructions say to use a shim behind the conlet if nessecarry, which I didnt because the flywheel seems to be to far from the engine bearing anyway, If i must estimate it is like about a 1/4 inch . I have the clutch nut tight as I can get it. So if anyone has a o.s. tz in there rrr let me know how to get this thing right, Im getting frustrated!!! Also rmdhawaii, I love your website, just having a hard time understanding this clutch
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Old 01-27-2007, 01:30 PM   #8643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
ok guys Im having serious issues with the clutch. I have a new wce edition im building and I cant get the clutch right. The engine if it matters im using is a new eb mods o.s. tz. Im a newbie at centax clutches so i dont know much about them. The problem is when I have it assembled and go to tighten the cap head screw that threads in the crank the clutch bell wont turn at all when I tighten it fully. Also I did notice that the instructions say to use a shim behind the conlet if nessecarry, which I didnt because the flywheel seems to be to far from the engine bearing anyway, If i must estimate it is like about a 1/4 inch . I have the clutch nut tight as I can get it. So if anyone has a o.s. tz in there rrr let me know how to get this thing right, Im getting frustrated!!! Also rmdhawaii, I love your website, just having a hard time understanding this clutch
did you put any shims on the back side of the clutch bell meanning on top of the clutch nut also MIKE SWAUGER has a how to article in xrc magazine all about clutching set up dont forget the bearing inside the clutch bell dont get frustrated it will be all right take a deep breath
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Old 01-27-2007, 01:59 PM   #8644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
ok guys Im having serious issues with the clutch. I have a new wce edition im building and I cant get the clutch right. The engine if it matters im using is a new eb mods o.s. tz. Im a newbie at centax clutches so i dont know much about them. The problem is when I have it assembled and go to tighten the cap head screw that threads in the crank the clutch bell wont turn at all when I tighten it fully. Also I did notice that the instructions say to use a shim behind the conlet if nessecarry, which I didnt because the flywheel seems to be to far from the engine bearing anyway, If i must estimate it is like about a 1/4 inch . I have the clutch nut tight as I can get it. So if anyone has a o.s. tz in there rrr let me know how to get this thing right, Im getting frustrated!!! Also rmdhawaii, I love your website, just having a hard time understanding this clutch
I've had that problem with my TZ also. Your shaft is a bit too short - or, remove the washer behind the collet. What I've done with my TZ, is add small washers at the end of the shaft to the point that the clutch bell is off of the clutch shoe and the end play is set properly. Still not exactly sure why I'm having this problem, but the fix has worked for me. It's possible that my rear bearing is not fully seated, but I've been unable to seat it any further.

Hope this helps. ...
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Old 01-27-2007, 01:59 PM   #8645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Good idea.

Up early this morning Rainer? Or haven't you gone to bed yet?
Up early. Never went back to sleep.
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Old 01-27-2007, 02:09 PM   #8646
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yeah I have tried putting shims on the crank behind the clutch bell as well as putting them on the screw. Rmdhawaii, so your saying add shims to the crank before I put the bearing on for the clutchbell. So when I have this thing right and fully tightend the clutchbell should spin freely by hand for over 5 seconds right? Also I didnt install the washer behind the collet. thanks for you guys being patient with me and your help
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Old 01-27-2007, 02:13 PM   #8647
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well just a pic of my servo horn sorry about the lighting
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Old 01-27-2007, 07:18 PM   #8648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
yeah I have tried putting shims on the crank behind the clutch bell as well as putting them on the screw. Rmdhawaii, so your saying add shims to the crank before I put the bearing on for the clutchbell. So when I have this thing right and fully tightend the clutchbell should spin freely by hand for over 5 seconds right? Also I didnt install the washer behind the collet. thanks for you guys being patient with me and your help
As for the washer that goes behind the collet it all depends on the motor you are using if you can't get the necessary space as per the manual it recomends using the washer if the flywheel is touching the motor case
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Old 01-27-2007, 08:51 PM   #8649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
yeah I have tried putting shims on the crank behind the clutch bell as well as putting them on the screw. Rmdhawaii, so your saying add shims to the crank before I put the bearing on for the clutchbell. So when I have this thing right and fully tightend the clutchbell should spin freely by hand for over 5 seconds right? Also I didnt install the washer behind the collet. thanks for you guys being patient with me and your help
The problem you're having, is that "C" is too short, that is why when you tighten the end cap, the clutch bell will not turn. Add washers to the end of the shaft (shown by "B") until the clutch bell will turn when you tighten the end cap. To adjust the endplay, add washer's on the shaft (shown by "A"). Make sure you have the correct clutch gap as well (shown by "E"). You may have to add more washers to "B" until everything is just right.

Hope this helps.

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Old 01-28-2007, 08:10 AM   #8650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
yeah I have tried putting shims on the crank behind the clutch bell as well as putting them on the screw. Rmdhawaii, so your saying add shims to the crank before I put the bearing on for the clutchbell. So when I have this thing right and fully tightend the clutchbell should spin freely by hand for over 5 seconds right? Also I didnt install the washer behind the collet. thanks for you guys being patient with me and your help
My opinion is that the collet angle is not matching the flywheel angle and it is holding the flywheel out to far and thus shortening the end of the crankshaft. I had a similar problem with my Mega. What I did (and I don't know if I would recommend) was I used a body reamer to open the hole in the flywheel to get it to sit closer to the engine. I ruined a flywheel doing this. What I would recommend is to try different collets to see if one fits better or do as Rainer described by adding shims.
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Old 01-28-2007, 08:58 AM   #8651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
My opinion is that the collet angle is not matching the flywheel angle and it is holding the flywheel out to far and thus shortening the end of the crankshaft. I had a similar problem with my Mega. What I did (and I don't know if I would recommend) was I used a body reamer to open the hole in the flywheel to get it to sit closer to the engine. I ruined a flywheel doing this. What I would recommend is to try different collets to see if one fits better or do as Rainer described by adding shims.
There is a special cone washer for the Mega (Picco) engines. Part # Team Magic K1215-13 and I have them on clearance for $2.
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:51 AM   #8652
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here are some pics of the space I was talking about with the flywheel and engine bearing space. Some body help please
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho v-one rrr-dsc00779.jpg   Kyosho v-one rrr-dsc00780.jpg   Kyosho v-one rrr-dsc00781.jpg   Kyosho v-one rrr-dsc00782.jpg  
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Old 01-28-2007, 12:02 PM   #8653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
My opinion is that the collet angle is not matching the flywheel angle and it is holding the flywheel out to far and thus shortening the end of the crankshaft. I had a similar problem with my Mega. What I did (and I don't know if I would recommend) was I used a body reamer to open the hole in the flywheel to get it to sit closer to the engine. I ruined a flywheel doing this. What I would recommend is to try different collets to see if one fits better or do as Rainer described by adding shims.
Changing the collet is the best course of action (thanks Jag) and I really wish my LHS carried them or you could buy exact sizes on the on the Web. Because they don't, I choose the washer path - which isn't the best solution, but it works.
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Old 01-28-2007, 12:03 PM   #8654
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.. wtf?
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Old 01-28-2007, 12:03 PM   #8655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winner's Circle
There is a special cone washer for the Mega (Picco) engines. Part # Team Magic K1215-13 and I have them on clearance for $2.
Lee ~ Just ordered 3 of them. Thanks for posting the info.
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