R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-16-2007, 09:03 PM   #8581
Tech Adept
 
KyoshoKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I use the medium ones and the flat spring cup. If you use the short ball cups you risk not getting the correct droop because the shocks are too short. That is what I found on my car.
PS - what is the flat spring cup? whats the part number so I can look at it?
__________________
-------------------------------------------------
Control the mind, control the finger, control the car
-------------------------------------------------
KyoshoKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2007, 09:22 PM   #8582
Tech Elite
 
kewdawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sneederville, USA
Posts: 3,311
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid
So the manual in incorrect then?? Well, in the sense of the droop settings

The guy at the track did mention something about droop but I dont get how the droop is effected. Cant you adjust the droop with the droop screws to make it have more droop? You screw in the shock shaft the same distance into the ball cup whether its short or long ball cups. Is it that the overall length is longer (the shaft stays the same lenght but the longer ball cup increases the lengh)?? If the length of the shaft is longer wouldnt that make the springs softer or would you screw down the adjuster to make it the same stiffness as if the short ball cup was used.

Have I made sense??
The length of the shock becomes longer which will allow the arm to have more down travel (sag more). This is needed when you run on really bumpy tracks and/or need to make ride height when you run really small tires. Stick to using the set screws in the arms to adjust droop. Just screw the longer ball cup on to the same distance as the stock one.

*The flat shock retainers came with you kit. You should have some that look like cones with a slot down the middle and flat ones with a slot down the middle. Its found on the shock parts tree. Part# VZ213 Small Parts Set (RRR)
__________________
Quinn Moon

Trinity / Epic / Revtech / VBC Racing USA / Mugen Seiki / Hot Race Tyres / SkyRocket Racing / SUPAFAST RC
kewdawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2007, 11:07 PM   #8583
Tech Adept
 
KyoshoKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
The length of the shock becomes longer which will allow the arm to have more down travel (sag more). This is needed when you run on really bumpy tracks and/or need to make ride height when you run really small tires. Stick to using the set screws in the arms to adjust droop. Just screw the longer ball cup on to the same distance as the stock one.

*The flat shock retainers came with you kit. You should have some that look like cones with a slot down the middle and flat ones with a slot down the middle. Its found on the shock parts tree. Part# VZ213 Small Parts Set (RRR)
Oh yes, I remember those parts.

If its a good thing to have the long ball ends on the rear shocks then why do the fronts have short ball ends? Wouldnt you need the same advatages at the front?
__________________
-------------------------------------------------
Control the mind, control the finger, control the car
-------------------------------------------------
KyoshoKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 01:26 AM   #8584
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: it's only illegal if you get caught!
Posts: 562
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoshoKid
Oh yes, I remember those parts.

If its a good thing to have the long ball ends on the rear shocks then why do the fronts have short ball ends? Wouldnt you need the same advatages at the front?
no because you can get away with using the short ones to get the correct amount of droop/ride height.
ae_ntc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 02:05 PM   #8585
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: So Florida
Posts: 937
Default

what body is everyone running with their rrr wce?
Joe Chaplow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 02:09 PM   #8586
Tech Master
 
Ivan Dickson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cali Love USA
Posts: 1,643
Trader Rating: 12 (93%+)
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by joemugen
what body is everyone running with their rrr wce?
Madza 6 & Dodge stratus 3.1
__________________
SPECIAL THANKS TO ✦ MY WIFE ✦✦ MOTIV RC ✦✦ GRAVITY RC ✦✦ JGO PAINTZ ✦✦ TQ RC RACEWAY ✦✦ TAMIYA RACEWAY ✦
Ivan Dickson is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 02:13 PM   #8587
Tech Addict
 
Eric Gebhard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 508
Default

I am running the Protoform Dodge Stratus 3.1. I have used the Parma type M and the PF Stratus on my MTX-4. What I found was that the Stratus feels more planted in the rear than the Type M. Also the body seams to be more durable than the Parma.
Eric Gebhard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 02:24 PM   #8588
Tech Master
 
Mike Ellis's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Aloha,Oregon
Posts: 1,535
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Dito.........
Mike Ellis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 03:53 PM   #8589
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

The ONLY body I'll drive now regardless of track size or traction.... Mazda 6. I have too much success with that body, no reason not to run it!

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 04:04 PM   #8590
Tech Champion
 
GMartinez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 8,167
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
The length of the shock becomes longer which will allow the arm to have more down travel (sag more). This is needed when you run on really bumpy tracks and/or need to make ride height when you run really small tires. Stick to using the set screws in the arms to adjust droop. Just screw the longer ball cup on to the same distance as the stock one.

*The flat shock retainers came with you kit. You should have some that look like cones with a slot down the middle and flat ones with a slot down the middle. Its found on the shock parts tree. Part# VZ213 Small Parts Set (RRR)
What up dawg how's everything
__________________
www.fullthrottlercraceway.com
Home of The U.S. World Nitro Cup 2013,2014,2015,2016
2014 Roar Electric Nationals, IFMAR ISTC Worlds, 2015 Roar Fuel Nationals
2017 U.S.World Nitro Cup Nov 29th - Dec 3rd
U.S.Open Fuel Championship Returning soon
GMartinez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 04:32 PM   #8591
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
The ONLY body I'll drive now regardless of track size or traction.... Mazda 6. I have too much success with that body, no reason not to run it!

Dom
Dom,

How are you mounting the body relative to the front wheel well cut lines? Also, where is the front edge of the rear wing relative to the wing mounts (raised section on the body)?

Thanks!
Rainer
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 04:38 PM   #8592
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Dom,

How are you mounting the body relative to the front wheel well cut lines? Also, where is the front edge of the rear wing relative to the wing mounts (raised section on the body)?

Thanks!
Rainer
This is 99% of the case....

I would cut the front wheel wells and then have the front wheel be dead center with the wheel wells, then trim the rear wheel wells according to where the rear wheels sit.

As for the wings, I mount the wing according to ROAR rules of the rear of the wing relative to the rear bumper.

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 06:39 PM   #8593
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
The length of the shock becomes longer which will allow the arm to have more down travel (sag more). This is needed when you run on really bumpy tracks and/or need to make ride height when you run really small tires. Stick to using the set screws in the arms to adjust droop. Just screw the longer ball cup on to the same distance as the stock one.
Exactly. When you are done your shocks will be just a little longer.
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 10:37 PM   #8594
Tech Adept
 
KyoshoKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Exactly. When you are done your shocks will be just a little longer.
Whats the best way to stiffen/soften the shocks (say the rear shocks)? Is there difference between the below?

A - increase/decrease the angle of the shocks on the shock tower
B - increase/decrease the shock oil and springs
__________________
-------------------------------------------------
Control the mind, control the finger, control the car
-------------------------------------------------
KyoshoKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 07:08 AM   #8595
Tech Fanatic
 
robert maestrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miramar
Posts: 906
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
It looks like 2 of the flyweights are missing in the picture.

The only difference I can see is 4 flyweights vs. 3 flyweights on the stock clutch and the material of the flywheel.

What am I missing?

Also there using a different shoe Jim....instead of grey there going with red...
__________________
Sippin Coladas and Chillin
robert maestrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE - Mugen MBX5T ProSpec and Kyosho STR with chassis conversion and Kyosho big MattWells R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 04-28-2017 10:25 AM
1986 1/12 Kyosho Plazma MKIII With Kyosho LeMan 600E Motor Funkymojo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 05-17-2012 11:11 AM
Custom painted Kyosho SP2 and Kyosho STRR bodies.... RC3 Graphics SWEET W/ PICS CRFXXXT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 01-07-2008 07:38 PM
MACH. 28/NEW PS, KYOSHO MINI INFERNO ST/W/3NEW IB1400 8 CELL PACKS, KYOSHO 1./8 BUGGY newbie2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-18-2007 06:07 PM
Convert Kyosho Quick Start system on Kyosho QRC to Pullstart Morpheus2be Monster Trucks 0 02-16-2005 11:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:46 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net