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Old 11-25-2006, 11:06 AM   #8401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
to me it looks like the one made for the MTX-4 by mid MUGEN germany http://www.mid-mugen.de/
great cheers do you know anyone who sell`s there products ?
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Old 11-25-2006, 07:40 PM   #8402
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Default Kyosho RRR

That receiver box looks like the boxes on the PRP Racing 1/8 scale cars.
I have one <its black though>, but go to PRPRacing.com.

If I remember right, the boxes are only about $5.00 or $6.00.
You can order on line, or from Ace Hardware.
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Old 11-26-2006, 08:06 PM   #8403
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Default Clutch help

How do you prepare your clutch for race?

I read Josh Cyrul method and have understood everything. I mean, the part where he discuss about shiming and spring pre-load, but I didn't get how I measure correctly the gap? There is a easy procedure to do it?
About the end-play. What is the intention? Avoid the shoes to touch the clutch bell?

If I change the spring load it will change the gap play?

I've been using an own method. First I put shims after spring nut, so the clutch bell don't drag the shoes, and after I see how much gap play I have and set it. I didn't have problems doing this, but I don't have any idea if this is heathly for the clutch, and if it gives a good result.
This why I am asking for help

It's normal the gap disappear after 3 races? It has disappeared and now there is no play

If anybody have another method I will appreciate
And sorry for so many questions

PS: Is this method for Kyosho Clutch system?

Thank you so much
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:11 AM   #8404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
I am assuming your using the right rear tyres? 2mm offset. If not the rear end can be too narrow.

The rear end drift is a problem of missunderstanding on how the front and rear react with one another. As you turn right the car leans over to the left. This in turn loads up the front and rear wheels. If the front is too stiff the front outside wheel will see more load and turn in before the back wheel is loaded and therfore breaks away. To compensate you need to soften the front and stiffen the back.

This sounds like the exact opposite to what you would expect but makes complete sence and also works in practice.

Other things that help are:

Using the CVJs that extend the rear and use 0 offset tyres
Use thinner rear diff oil
Harder rear roll bar

Cheers

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Depending upon how the car is working, you can either take steering away or increase rear traction. My suggestions are: if you want to increase rear traction you can lay the rear shocks down, use black springs, remove the 2mm blue spacer from the upper links (lower the rear roll center), use 10k in the diff, increase rear toe-in, etc... You could also try taking away some steering by turning the front sway bar up. My last suggestion is to use some finess with the throttle. I would recommend making 1 change at a time.

I am not the most experienced driver but these are the areas I would work in. I hope at least some of this helps.
thanks guy for the infos...
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Old 11-30-2006, 06:45 AM   #8405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1
How do you prepare your clutch for race?

I read Josh Cyrul method and have understood everything. I mean, the part where he discuss about shiming and spring pre-load, but I didn't get how I measure correctly the gap? There is a easy procedure to do it?
About the end-play. What is the intention? Avoid the shoes to touch the clutch bell?

If I change the spring load it will change the gap play?

I've been using an own method. First I put shims after spring nut, so the clutch bell don't drag the shoes, and after I see how much gap play I have and set it. I didn't have problems doing this, but I don't have any idea if this is heathly for the clutch, and if it gives a good result.
This why I am asking for help

It's normal the gap disappear after 3 races? It has disappeared and now there is no play

If anybody have another method I will appreciate
And sorry for so many questions

PS: Is this method for Kyosho Clutch system?

Thank you so much

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Old 11-30-2006, 09:30 PM   #8406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1
method 1
- after the clutch adj. nut i put 1/or none 0.1 shim ( yes using this method the clutch bell is rubbing the shoes when not in motion. but when idling the engine rotation will push the bell and will not rub)
- enter the internal clutch bell bearing
- enter the clutch bell
- enter the outer bearing
- enter the thrust bearing
- last add shims (if required) so there is minimal free play beetween the clutch bell and the thrust bearing retainer.

method 2
- after the clutch adj. nut put shims till your clutch bell is not touching the clutch shoes.
- enter the internal clutch bell bearing
- enter the clutch bell
- enter the outer bearing
- enter the thrust bearing
- last add shims(if needed) so there is minimal free play beetween the clutch bell and the thrust bearing retainer.

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Last edited by rcabj; 11-30-2006 at 09:34 PM. Reason: edit
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Old 12-01-2006, 03:23 AM   #8407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcabj
method 1
- after the clutch adj. nut i put 1/or none 0.1 shim ( yes using this method the clutch bell is rubbing the shoes when not in motion. but when idling the engine rotation will push the bell and will not rub)
- enter the internal clutch bell bearing
- enter the clutch bell
- enter the outer bearing
- enter the thrust bearing
- last add shims (if required) so there is minimal free play beetween the clutch bell and the thrust bearing retainer.

method 2
- after the clutch adj. nut put shims till your clutch bell is not touching the clutch shoes.
- enter the internal clutch bell bearing
- enter the clutch bell
- enter the outer bearing
- enter the thrust bearing
- last add shims(if needed) so there is minimal free play beetween the clutch bell and the thrust bearing retainer.

I would recommend to do it with the standard Kyosho way, which is better explained in the EVO manual. Since I followed that method, I did n't have any problem with the clutch.
1) first adjust the nut to 1.2 spring preload. You may need to change this according to the track grip but it is a good starting point.
2) install the inner bearing, outer bearing and thrust. Now the bell touches the shoe and if you pull it can travel towards the outside. Set this travel distance to 0.5mm by adding shims outside of the thrust. This is the clutch gap.
3) Now add shims behind the inner bearing until you have a minimum movement of 0.1mm approximately. This is the end play. By setting the end play to 0.1mm it is secured that the bell can spin freely without touching the shoe. However, you have to verify it.

You will have to assemble and disassemble the clutch several times until you find the correct settings. Try to be accurate on the measurments because it is easy there to make mistakes.

At the end, don't forget to put grease on the thrust and lubricate the bearings. It is important for the life and the performance of the clutch.
//BR
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Old 12-03-2006, 04:36 PM   #8408
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does anybody know the part number for the new front spool?
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Old 12-04-2006, 07:03 AM   #8409
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Default The little I know about clutches

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1
How do you prepare your clutch for race?

I read Josh Cyrul method and have understood everything. I mean, the part where he discuss about shiming and spring pre-load, but I didn't get how I measure correctly the gap? There is a easy procedure to do it?
About the end-play. What is the intention? Avoid the shoes to touch the clutch bell?

If I change the spring load it will change the gap play?

I've been using an own method. First I put shims after spring nut, so the clutch bell don't drag the shoes, and after I see how much gap play I have and set it. I didn't have problems doing this, but I don't have any idea if this is heathly for the clutch, and if it gives a good result.
This why I am asking for help

It's normal the gap disappear after 3 races? It has disappeared and now there is no play

If anybody have another method I will appreciate
And sorry for so many questions

PS: Is this method for Kyosho Clutch system?

Thank you so much



Coupe of things here Jeff1
1. Spring preload DOES NOT affect Clutch GAP
2. GAP is the clearance of the Bell and the Shoe
3. End play is the distance or "play" the Bell has when fully assembled

So is this method for Kyosho clutch systems, YES
It's for all centax style clutch systems

your question:
It's normal the gap disappear after 3 races? It has disappeared and now there is no play
No it's not normal if anything the GAP(2) should increase as the shoe wears
The end play should typically remain the same

Now about setting a clutch
1. remove the inner bearing and inner shims
2. Place the bell w/the outer bearing in on to the shaft
note the bell should now be resting on the shoe
3. Use the depth part of the caliper and rest it on the end of the shaft and tip of the shoe
*measure 2-3 times for accuracy*
4. Set the caliper to Zero
5. Now add the inner shims on the shaft and inner bearing
6. Add the clutch bell back ON and measure as you did in step#3
you are looking for about -0.4mm on the caliper
That is your GAP,

Not the END play
Easy way I've found is to shim until there is no play
* make sure the assembly is tight remove and measure the shims you want eg. remove .5mm if you need .5mm end play .4mm if you want .4mm and so ON.

Now back to the preload now that the rest of the clutch is assembled
I preffer to have my clutch engage as late as possible however fuel consumption does increase however the engine is under less load. So to do this I tighten the nut start the engine, warm the engine up and then rev. If it's too tight that it's slipping when you rev it in your hand, loosen a 1/4 turn Start up again. place the car on the ground and rev, the clutch should engage and the tires spin. rev it a few times on the ground, your are looking for consistency...ie. the same feel everytime your clutch hits.

Now take it on the track. If the Grip on the track is low, too hard a clutch depending on your gearing will cause the back/rear end to break loose on power. This condition is more evident coming OFF the corner
on power.

Hope this helps
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Old 12-05-2006, 04:50 PM   #8410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdtch
does anybody know the part number for the new front spool?
VZW220
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Old 12-05-2006, 05:38 PM   #8411
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Default part

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Johnson
VZW220
hey guys i looked on the KYOSHO site but did not find the part is it there now
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Old 12-06-2006, 06:52 AM   #8412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
hey guys i looked on the KYOSHO site but did not find the part is it there now
William go to shop kyosho punch in vzw220 on the search location upper right handside it will show up
VZW220 SP FRONT SPOOL SHAFT (RRR/RRR EVO/SIII) $22.99
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:20 PM   #8413
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Default spool

Quote:
Originally Posted by 710baby
William go to shop kyosho punch in vzw220 on the search location upper right handside it will show up
VZW220 SP FRONT SPOOL SHAFT (RRR/RRR EVO/SIII) $22.99
thanks for the info. good lookin out see you at the races somewhere
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:54 PM   #8414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
thanks for the info. good lookin out see you at the races somewhere
See Ya @ the Winternat's
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Old 12-10-2006, 05:42 PM   #8415
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Hey all

what are the parts required to make a front diff for the RRR?
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