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Old 11-04-2006, 01:15 AM   #8311
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Default da real deal

dogbone is selling an rrr standard kit plus the conversion kit, rrr and evo shocks included! u'll get the choice of 2 upper decks as well
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:12 AM   #8312
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Default clutch endplay - gap

hi all,

although this subject has been discussed before i want to ask something because i am confused..

setting up the centax the GAP distance is when you have removed the back ball bearing the travelling distance of the clutch bell from touching the shoe to totally pulled out. correct?

the endplay is the final distance that teh clutch bell will travel when you have put some shims before the rear ball bearing in order not the clutch bell to touch the shoe. is this correnct?

thnx antony
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:29 PM   #8313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
hi all,

although this subject has been discussed before i want to ask something because i am confused..

setting up the centax the GAP distance is when you have removed the back ball bearing the travelling distance of the clutch bell from touching the shoe to totally pulled out. correct?

the endplay is the final distance that teh clutch bell will travel when you have put some shims before the rear ball bearing in order not the clutch bell to touch the shoe. is this correnct?

thnx antony
That's how I see it.
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:36 PM   #8314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcabj
hi...just got this kit less then a month...and last weekend was its 1st club race and with the stock setup i was able to reduce 0.5 sec of my best lap - ... the setup was still not the best or rather 80-90 percent. i feel when it get more dialed i can slash few more tenths...
Congrats. Sounds like you are on your way.

Quote:
the only upgrade i did was putting in the fr univrsal j and alu hexes. tq
Do you have an Evo or a V1RRR?

Quote:
p/s : for the moment i am not getting the turning that i want to in small or u turning...the car felt lazy during this stages, like the rear too much planted, at sweepers and large corners it was excellent... i was using 37 shore front and 40 rear...
I can't offer any suggestions until I know which kit you have. Also, tell us about your track conditions.

jag
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:03 AM   #8315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianhobbies
dogbone is selling an rrr standard kit plus the conversion kit, rrr and evo shocks included! u'll get the choice of 2 upper decks as well
thanks nice deal
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Old 11-06-2006, 02:31 AM   #8316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Congrats. Sounds like you are on your way.


Do you have an Evo or a V1RRR?


I can't offer any suggestions until I know which kit you have. Also, tell us about your track conditions.

jag
it's the RRR... like i mention above its all exactly to the stock setup, besides the tyres.+ rear diff using 10K

as for the tracks its medium size, smooth level surface and medium traction, 1 in and 1 out sweeper, 1 chicane and 4 tight turns i think.
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Last edited by rcabj; 11-06-2006 at 03:01 AM. Reason: e
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Old 11-06-2006, 06:51 AM   #8317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcabj
it's the RRR... like i mention above its all exactly to the stock setup, besides the tyres.+ rear diff using 10K

as for the tracks its medium size, smooth level surface and medium traction, 1 in and 1 out sweeper, 1 chicane and 4 tight turns i think.
Is the RRR standard setup the same as the RRR WC? If it is and the rear end feels too planted then I would try 30k in the rear and maybe a stiffer rear swaybar. Are you using the 2mm blue spacer in the rear upper link? If not, I would try using it. Raising the rear roll center should loosen-up the rear.

I don't have many suggestions because I typically have the opposite problem. My car has so much steering that the rear feels loose.
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:25 AM   #8318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcabj
it's the RRR... like i mention above its all exactly to the stock setup, besides the tyres.+ rear diff using 10K

as for the tracks its medium size, smooth level surface and medium traction, 1 in and 1 out sweeper, 1 chicane and 4 tight turns i think.
Hi there, I had the same problem as well with my RRR. Jag's suggestions are in the right way, go heavier diff oil for the rear. I play in HPC often, I had to use 20-30K rear diff, and using SHORT silver springs at the back and LONG gold springs up front, to get the steering and turning point I need, worth a try.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:30 AM   #8319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Hi there, I had the same problem as well with my RRR. Jag's suggestions are in the right way, go heavier diff oil for the rear. I play in HPC often, I had to use 20-30K rear diff, and using SHORT silver springs at the back and LONG gold springs up front, to get the steering and turning point I need, worth a try.
Pls guide me if I'm wrong, softer springs uses heavier shock oil?
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:47 AM   #8320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
Pls guide me if I'm wrong, softer springs uses heavier shock oil?
Not always supposedly so, but that's what I'm having in my setup.
Shock oil plays a role in damping effect. Thicker oil = heavier damping, which makes the car more stable, and makes it handle more smoothly. Soft damping makes the car react quicker/twitchier. So...when we use softer springs, the suspension might feel a little bit too "bouncy", hence this is where a heavier damping can come into play to neutralize that, without taking away too much effect from that softer spring.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:02 AM   #8321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Not always supposedly so, but that's what I'm having in my setup.
Shock oil plays a role in damping effect. Thicker oil = heavier damping, which makes the car more stable, and makes it handle more smoothly. Soft damping makes the car react quicker/twitchier. So...when we use softer springs, the suspension might feel a little bit too "bouncy", hence this is where a heavier damping can come into play to neutralize that, without taking away too much effect from that softer spring.
The handling of the car depends on the balance between the front to the back so saying softer springs on the front to increase steering all depends on whats happening at the back.

When you turn right the weight of the car is thrown left and forward (unless your spot on with the throttle) as the car rolls to the left its resisted by the springs, Shock oil and the roll bars. If the front loads up before the back then you will get a lot of initial steering and this will throw the back out. To stop this you need to stiffen up the back to resist the roll OR soften the front.

The problem is that every adjustment has a positive and negative effect and you need to compensate for the negative effects by adjusting something else. Its all about balance

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Old 11-07-2006, 01:34 AM   #8322
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THANK U GUYS FOR THE INFO'S....
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Old 11-08-2006, 02:01 AM   #8323
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guys, what will be the code for the Zac tires for 0 off sets .

is it the ZA , ZB or ZAB

thank you
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:59 AM   #8324
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Hello, I am new in 1/10 on road.
Can some one tell me, what the best setup for the two-speed-clutch.
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Old 11-08-2006, 06:11 AM   #8325
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Depends on your engine and your track but if you screw in the 2 adjuster screws all the way in then back them off 4 turns its a good starting point

Make sure you adjust the preload screws as well. They are the ones in the middle of the 2speed shoes. Screw them in untill the 2nd gear just touches the shoes then back them off 1/8th turn

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