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Old 10-11-2006, 06:20 AM   #8191
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Default hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
I had about 3mm from ride height front droop
and about 2mm from ride height rear droop

ive set the car to 0mm front and 4mm rear, 40 wt shock oil, silver springs all round and -2 rear toe in. 50k front diff and 5k rear diff, ill test it saturday and see how we go.

right now im trying to stop leaking shocks

thanks heaps guys
when you stop the leaking shocks let me know mine are leaking also cant seem to stop them ive tried everything
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:21 AM   #8192
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
mrgsr,
4mm of rear droop is a lot! Are you measuring this by using Hudy droop gauges? I would strongly suggest using only 2mm of rear droop.
Im measuring this on hudy droop block and droop gauge
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:47 AM   #8193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
when you stop the leaking shocks let me know mine are leaking also cant seem to stop them ive tried everything
Guys, awhile back, I posted pictures of a shock cap mod done to fix this problem. Basically, you drill a small hole in the cap where the bladder's lip sits. Similar to how the (original) Hpi Pro 4 shock caps are drilled to allow the shocks to self-bleed to give you perfect dampening every time you build them.
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Kyosho v-one rrr-shockcapmod-.jpg  
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:50 AM   #8194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
Im measuring this on hudy droop block and droop gauge
Unless, you're racing on a track with major dips and ruts and you need the ground clearance, then 4mm is too much. You'll continue to have the same problem.
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:52 AM   #8195
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
Unless, you're racing on a track with major dips and ruts and you need the ground clearance, then 4mm is too much. You'll continue to have the same problem.
thanks for your help.. so should i go up to say 6mm or more ?
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:16 AM   #8196
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Default SP REAR SHOCK TWR

Has anyone of you tried the SP rear shock tower (VZW 207)? What is the diffence in handling did you notice? From what I can see it has got blue anodized rear bearing cover comes together with it, and the rear inner camber link pivot ball sits upwards instead of towards the front, and it has got 3 holes instead of 5 holes(EVO). Is this better? And what is the effect of having 2mm spacer under the pivot ball?
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:22 AM   #8197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
mrgsr,
4mm of rear droop is a lot! Are you measuring this by using Hudy droop gauges? I would strongly suggest using only 2mm of rear droop.
what will happen when the front ride height is 3mm and the rear ride height is 5 mm? Will this help to prevent the rear from skiing?
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:22 AM   #8198
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Originally Posted by mrgsr
thanks for your help.. so should i go up to say 6mm or more ?
You said, you were using Hudy droop gauges, right? Then you should set the droop at the 2mm mark on the gauge.
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:24 AM   #8199
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Originally Posted by Black_Widow
what will happen when the front ride height is 3mm and the rear ride height is 5 mm? Will this help to prevent the rear from skiing?
No. Just the opposite. Make the changes we talked about and keep the ride height even - front to rear.
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:27 AM   #8200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz
Has anyone of you tried the SP rear shock tower (VZW 207)? What is the diffence in handling did you notice? From what I can see it has got blue anodized rear bearing cover comes together with it, and the rear inner camber link pivot ball sits upwards instead of towards the front, and it has got 3 holes instead of 5 holes(EVO). Is this better? And what is the effect of having 2mm spacer under the pivot ball?
No, haven't tried it yet. When you raise and level the camber link (also when you lengthen the camber link), you increase the amount of roll the chassis will exhibit.
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:56 AM   #8201
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
You said, you were using Hudy droop gauges, right? Then you should set the droop at the 2mm mark on the gauge.
excuse my ignorance hehe.. wouldnt this give the car more droop? unscrewing the droop screws will lower the arms to 2mm thus give more droop

my droop blocks are 10mm high andthe droop gauge at 10mm is 0
is this right ?
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:59 AM   #8202
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Default leaking shock..

Ive beentold to put a small dab of shoe goo to under the shock cap to seal the black part tothe shock cap.

hmm is this a bandaid type solution ? he saidhis shock have never once leaked since this mod
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:03 AM   #8203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
excuse my ignorance hehe.. wouldnt this give the car more droop? unscrewing the droop screws will lower the arms to 2mm thus give more droop

my droop blocks are 10mm high andthe droop gauge at 10mm is 0
is this right ?
Are the arms level with the chassis, angled up or angled down? You want the arms to be 2mm below level - creating 2mm of droop a.ka. sag.
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:05 AM   #8204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
Ive beentold to put a small dab of shoe goo to under the shock cap to seal the black part tothe shock cap.

hmm is this a bandaid type solution ? he saidhis shock have never once leaked since this mod
Well, that will keep the bladder from dropping out of the cap and allowing oil behind it, but what about being able to "bleed" them properly?
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:09 AM   #8205
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Default hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Guys, awhile back, I posted pictures of a shock cap mod done to fix this problem. Basically, you drill a small hole in the cap where the bladder's lip sits. Similar to how the (original) Hpi Pro 4 shock caps are drilled to allow the shocks to self-bleed to give you perfect dampening every time you build them.
thanks
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