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Old 10-08-2006, 07:15 AM   #8146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
hi all..

this is what hapened to my engine yesterday i think i am lucky that pieces of the broken iron didn't scratch the piston...

why this think hapened? any idea? just before it smashes i had a crash with an other car, i was hited on the right rear wheel but nothing was broken... although i had the filling that the car wasn't able to run... after that the engine stoped.. i started it again without no problem and after a big straigh the engine stoped again. the rest you can see in the picture

antony
I feel sorry for u, it looks terrible having to suffer that crash. It seems as though the impact on the shaft have caused a dent line of damage and give way when it cant take the rev
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Old 10-08-2006, 07:58 AM   #8147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
I feel sorry for u, it looks terrible having to suffer that crash. It seems as though the impact on the shaft have caused a dent line of damage and give way when it cant take the rev
hey dude..hows your car anyway ?
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:03 AM   #8148
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Originally Posted by maskedrider
hey dude..hows your car anyway ?
manage to get it to run after some deep finding n readings on the clutch issue however i notice a lot of bubble in my fuel line, btw is it recommended to place a fuel filter?
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:09 AM   #8149
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Default hmm

i think the tank has a filter in it
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:11 AM   #8150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
manage to get it to run after some deep finding n readings on the clutch issue however i notice a lot of bubble in my fuel line, btw is it recommended to place a fuel filter?

are you use those like a bomb filter fitting between the fule line?? you need to clean it time to time to pervent blockage, and wherelse not nessary to fit that
btw, where u run your car at ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
i think the tank has a filter in it

correct
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:15 AM   #8151
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does drift wheels for the rear comes in different sizes for 1/10 car?
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:17 AM   #8152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
does drift wheels for the rear comes in different sizes for 1/10 car?
what drift wheel u refer at ?
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:19 AM   #8153
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1. no lah mine is those mesh type leh not stone type.

2. Use for drifting.
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:23 AM   #8154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
are you use those like a bomb filter fitting between the fule line?? you need to clean it time to time to pervent blockage, and wherelse not nessary to fit that





correct
i race in vegas, & california three track wonder
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:26 AM   #8155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
i race in vegas, & california three track wonder
congrat for your acheivedment
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:15 PM   #8156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
I feel sorry for u, it looks terrible having to suffer that crash. It seems as though the impact on the shaft have caused a dent line of damage and give way when it cant take the rev
it wasn't that nice.. do you think i should fix it or go to buy a new engine? the price of the axle is about 140Euro... so it is about the 1/2 of a new engine..
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Old 10-08-2006, 07:30 PM   #8157
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Default need help with rear side bite and turn in loose rear

hey guys im hoping you can share some thought on my car setup
i need some help with rear side bite traction and off power turn in with the rear sliding out.

racers say its agood tratciuon track with everyonre running 40 shore all round tyres. its short and technical.

front: black springs, 50,000wt diff oil, standard roll centre positions, castor clips one on each side of arm,+1 toe out, camber is set for tyre sto wear flat. 50wt shock oil. The car did work better when i had 30,000wt diff oil, sway bar set to 45degrees

rear: silver springs on bottom shock position, 40wt shock oil. black sway bar with ends all the way in, -3 toe in. canber is -3.5 tyres are wearing flat. 5000wt diff oil. roll centre is standard turned around to lower roll centre

gearing is 1 less tooth on each spur.

thanks heaps guys
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Old 10-09-2006, 01:18 AM   #8158
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The RRR is prone to the back sliding out. If you can control it then the car can be driven fast.

The front is too hard compared to the back. I'll explain.

As the weight transfers over when turning the front will load up quicker than the back. The back will have to roll more to get the same grip and looses traction before the outside wheel can bite.

Soften the front and increase the roll bar.
Increase the rear springs and increase the rear shock oil
Stand the rear shocks up to the top

You might find you will loose mid corner steering so soften the front roll bar to compensate if you have gone too far.

Cheers

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Old 10-09-2006, 01:25 AM   #8159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345

Soften the front and increase the roll bar.
Increase the rear springs and increase the rear shock oil
Stand the rear shocks up to the top

Cheers
i should silver springs all round ?
what do you mean by increase the rear springs and shock oil?
would using the same weight shock oil all round help? the track is flat with hardly any bumps at all.

wouldnt standing the rear shocks up decrease rear traction?

thanks!
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Old 10-09-2006, 03:03 AM   #8160
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You have to make sure the back and front is balanced. If its loosing traction at the back then its not loading up fast enough. Stiffen the springs and oil.

Experiment with differeent srpings but dont forget the car acts as one unit. Adjusting the back will change the balance of the car and therfore effect the overall handeling.

When you say you have soft on the back and it has no grip then its because its not balanced with the front. Look at he front and see whats going on
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