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Old 07-27-2006, 09:53 AM   #7666
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Hi, i have a question regarding the 2 speed tranny.


One of the bronze collars(2.6x3x5.5mm collar that goes around 2.5x12mm cap screw) has been destroyed ><, so i removed it completely.

Now there is only one collar on one of the springs.

Are the collars REQUIRED for shifting to occur? cause yesterday i was noticing some strange shifting(when i had the broken collar installed). As it would shift, the engine would bog down. It only did this every so often though.

So my real question is, are the collars requird for "smooth" and reliable shifting action.


edit: is there a certain part number for the collar itself(are they sold seperatly?), rather than the whole 2speed shoe set.

thxs in advnace

Last edited by krnfx; 07-27-2006 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 07-30-2006, 12:45 PM   #7667
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hi guys,

having a little problem with my clutch, when i build it up and set the gap on 0.7 the clutch is verry good and pretty agressive ( what i like ) buth after 5 minutes or some the clutch getts less agressive as in the beginning, does annybody know what the problem could be? changed my bearings already and the clutch shoe is still good ( original grey )
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Old 07-30-2006, 04:45 PM   #7668
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Default Pulley problems?

Is anyone else out there having problems with the new aluminum pulleys from Kyosho?

The sides seem to come off while racing. It has happened to several I have.

What have you tried to fix the problem?

Let us know.

Thanks.
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Kyosho v-one rrr-rrr-pulley.jpg  
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Old 07-30-2006, 05:24 PM   #7669
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Default pulley

Quote:
Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
Is anyone else out there having problems with the new aluminum pulleys from Kyosho?

The sides seem to come off while racing. It has happened to several I have.

What have you tried to fix the problem?

Let us know.

Thanks.
change it back to the plastic it will save you the headache been there it will come apart in the middle of a race so watch out
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Old 07-30-2006, 05:27 PM   #7670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
change it back to the plastic it will save you the headache been there
Thanks!
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Old 07-30-2006, 05:45 PM   #7671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
Is anyone else out there having problems with the new aluminum pulleys from Kyosho?

The sides seem to come off while racing. It has happened to several I have.

What have you tried to fix the problem?

Let us know.

Thanks.
Ive never tried the aluminum pulleys.......so i cant say how good they are...but im not sure if its the picture or just me but that gear looks bigger than the stock 18 tooth that goes on the outside of the main shaft...if it is 18 disregard if it is not 18 tooth i would recommend you put the 18 tooth pulley back on...
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Old 07-30-2006, 06:26 PM   #7672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert maestrey
Ive never tried the aluminum pulleys.......so i cant say how good they are...but im not sure if its the picture or just me but that gear looks bigger than the stock 18 tooth that goes on the outside of the main shaft...if it is 18 disregard if it is not 18 tooth i would recommend you put the 18 tooth pulley back on...

Hi Robert,

This is just a photo to show what I was refering to. Not my actual car.

I do run the 18T on the outside of the main shaft.

Thanks though.
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Old 07-30-2006, 07:33 PM   #7673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmudd
Am I correct at guessing Kyosho shock oil weights transfer this way...

K600wt = 60wt Losi/Associated
K500wt = 50wt Losi/Associated
etc...etc...???
Thanks
no cps is totaly diff from wt,400cps is 32.5 as and30 losi. see www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/shock.html
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Old 07-30-2006, 08:38 PM   #7674
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Dom or Mike
I heard Mike C.ouldn't make the five run time with his OS motor @ the TZ..
Anybody eles have the same problem? Thanks
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Last edited by OVA; 07-31-2006 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 07-31-2006, 02:23 AM   #7675
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Hi all,

After having over 1 yr off from racing Im back into the scene!! I just upgraded from a V One S to a V One RRR WCE. Someone may have had the same issue and my questions already answered but there are way too many pages to sift through

1 - When building the 2 Speed Changer (Step 25), I had to pull out one of the Collar's (my bad) but in doing so I bent it with the pliers and the Cap Screw wouldnt fit in anymore so I did my best to bend it back into shape with the pliers. Now the Cap Screw goes in OK but its not as "free moving" as the other side. Will this effect the changing of the 2 Speed?

2 - The Spur Gear (Part# 150, Step 26) did fit nicely onto the 2 Speed Changer but I could not rotate it at all! (So down the track how am I suppose to change the 2 speed timing??) It would get caught on the 2 Speed Changer so I had to file down the 2 Speed changer on the edges which were not round, the Spur Gear can rotate now (but still with some force) and I can see the 2 set screws to change timing. Does the Spur Gear need to be free? I noticed on my V One S that there was no restriction. Anyone else have this problem?

3 - I have never built a clutch so I was unsure how to use the clutch tool. In step 42, how to you tighten part#137 (bit before the clutch shoes) to fit onto the crankshaft of the motor?
- How tight do you tighten part#135, to tighten the spring? The manual says 1.2mm gap but it was almost impossible to screws it down that far so some of the thread was showing
- Step 43 says to use a 5x0.5mm and 5x0.1 (part#146, 147) washer so there is a 0.5mm gab. Where do I get these washers from? I could not find it in my parts
- How on earth do you tell the difference between the 4.8mm and 5.0mm washers that go on the ball bearing?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-31-2006, 02:59 AM   #7676
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- How tight do you tighten part#135, to tighten the spring? The manual says 1.2mm gap but it was almost impossible to screws it down that far so some of the thread was showing

Kyosho have a tool for that... its got two pins that slot into the grooves of the nut so you can tighten and loosen the nut... if you have not got one of these i guess all you could use is needle nose pliars into grooves and tighten, i know its hack - thats only if you cant wait to get the right tool. i normally run that nut at around 1mm to .8mm, i found the kit reccomendations to be engaging way to late.


- Step 43 says to use a 5x0.5mm and 5x0.1 (part#146, 147) washer so there is a 0.5mm gab. Where do I get these washers from? I could not find it in my parts

all engines are diffrent, you will need to build your clutch to suit your motor not so much how it says in the book... there are many articles about how to set up centax clutches out there - josh cyrul has a good one on his site here http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/clutch/index.php this may be the best way to explain whats happening and exactly what you are shimming for.


- How on earth do you tell the difference between the 4.8mm and 5.0mm washers that go on the ball bearing?

the difference is in the centre hole... measure it with some calipers

Sorry this is all i can help you with off the top of my head, i dont have my manual with the to check through to know 'exactly' what your talking about at the moment... good luck with your rrr, you wont be dissapointed.
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:21 AM   #7677
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Dynamite:
Thanks for that. I do have a pair of cheap plastic calipers that I can use. The funny thing is I did use them but was measuring them incorreclty!! I was measuring the width and they were the same *** Silly me ***

So with the clutch spring you do have to tighten it a fair bit. Just wanted to confirm because it did seem a bit hard to do and didnt want to tighten it too hard and break/bend something.
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:49 AM   #7678
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Dymanite:
PS - I did get myself a clutch tool while I was in Hong Kong but I dont know how to use it. Now that you mention it, now I know what that little device that came with it is for. Its round with 2 rods sticking out at each end i.e. those rods go into the nut to tighten the screw. I see!!
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Old 07-31-2006, 04:02 AM   #7679
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have fun!
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Old 07-31-2006, 09:35 AM   #7680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVA
Dom or Mike
I heard Mike C.couldn't make the five run time with his OS motor @ the TZ..
Anybody eles have the same problem? Thanks
where's Dom
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