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Old 07-15-2006, 06:47 AM   #7516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moot
blown off track.no compound.

using silver springs all round.
40wt shock oil all round
10000 in the front diff,
5000 in the rear.
1.5 front camber
2 rear camber
2 front toe
2.5 rear toe
drop 0 front 5mm rear
flat front sway bar
and rear one pulled in 2mm

using 35 shore tires all round.
If, the inner roll-centers (at the hinge pins) are in the stock positions:

-Change the front diff lube to 30,000.
-Change the front shock oil to 60wt. and spring to black.
-Change the front camber to 1 degrees.
-Change the rear toe to 3 degrees and camber to 3 degrees.
-Change the rear droop to 2 mm (on the gauge) - you have too much weight transferring to the front. This will cause the rear end to come around, too fast in low traction situations.
-Change the rear bar joint position to flush on the sway bar.
-Lengthen the rear upper links(use the inner position) and remove the 2 mm blue spacers.

With these changes, the car should be a lot more planted and easier to drive.
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Old 07-15-2006, 11:21 AM   #7517
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Default wce conversion kit

hello,

who is selling the wce conversion kit? what's the price?

thanks,

ahmed
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Old 07-15-2006, 03:26 PM   #7518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franknitty69
hello,

who is selling the wce conversion kit? what's the price?

thanks,

ahmed
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Old 07-15-2006, 03:30 PM   #7519
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100 & what ever degrees here in the lv 702 forgetaboutit
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Old 07-16-2006, 09:11 PM   #7520
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Thunking about getting one of these. Is it worth getting the EVO over the original? I have a good deal on a original with some hopups and parts. Thanks, let me know
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Old 07-16-2006, 09:20 PM   #7521
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Do you mean getting an EVO over the origianl RRR, not the WCE? The RRR WCE is a very capable car still. If you are deciding to between an EVO and the regular RRR kit, then I say go with the EVO.

If you have a good deal on the WCE with parts, I wouldn't hesitate it.

Dom
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Old 07-16-2006, 09:26 PM   #7522
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I have a deal on non-wce with a bunch of parts and bunch of Kawahara 3Racing and K factory hop ups for $325. I like the fact that ot comes with a bunch of spares.

ALso whats new on the EVO?
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Old 07-16-2006, 11:01 PM   #7523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodude
ALso whats new on the EVO?
The main noticeable is the top deck, the necessary hardware to do the standup throttle servo...

Rear bulkheads, layshaft, brake disc, brake pulley, brake shaft, center bulkhead, rear shock bodies, diaphrams, new springs (rates) set, belt tensioner.... that's all I could think of at the moment. I'm sure I missed a some other things.

Dom
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Old 07-16-2006, 11:02 PM   #7524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
The main noticeable is the top deck, the necessary hardware to do the standup throttle servo...

Rear bulkheads, layshaft, brake disc, brake pulley, brake shaft, center bulkhead, rear shock bodies, diaphrams, new springs (rates) set, belt tensioner.... that's all I could think of at the moment. I'm sure I missed a some other things.

Dom
Oh, forgot 1 important thing.... new harder materials spur gears!

Dom
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Old 07-16-2006, 11:04 PM   #7525
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Drove the new RRR-WC today. I put the car on the track as I got it from the guy I purchased it from. Now I didn't have a decent body on the car and the car was set up with the front oneway, heavy black springs up front and golds out back. Looking at the back of the car, the rear arms do not even hang to parallel with the ground (they are slanted up). Even with the down stops removed the arms didn't even hang level.

That being said, the car had unreal stearing (too much maybe), but off power the car would swap ends like nobody's business.

So here is my question, (understanding that stiffening the front/softening the rear...too much weight transfer to the front off power...etc...etc...) what exactly does a guy need to do to get some rear bite (car has rear traction on power). Looking at some setups on the net, it seems like guys are running harder tires in the rear or at least equal shore ratings, front and back and I ran 45's up front and 40's in the rear. ALso the rears were 0 offset and not the 2 degree offset.

Any ideas.

Thanks,
John
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Old 07-16-2006, 11:24 PM   #7526
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John, to answer all of your questions without going too much into details here on the thread and pretty much writing an essay (PM me whenever you need help).... Disconnect the shocks and make sure you are getting good arm travel, the shocks might be limiting your arms travel. Also check your rear roll center, see where they're at.

Gold is the hardest springs for the RRR and that gives a lot of forward bite and tons of front steering, it also comes with the price of a loose rear. When you were driving, what were your droop settings F&R? How's the traction? Is the rear coming around going into the corner? Mid? Or coming out of the corner?

In case if you dont' know already... Kyosho springs are...
Gold--Black--Silver
Hard--Medium--Soft

As for tires, I've been running 40's all the way around for medium traction and 42F/40R for higher traction tracks. (This is for down the road.... once you have a good setup and running 45's front still has too much steering, Kyosho offers optional 1 and 2 degree knuckles, you can kill some steering using those knuckles as well.) But I would suggest try to figure out what you have right now.

As for the rear 0mm offset tires, the optional VSW007 will allow you to run 0mm offset tires, still maintain 200mm track width with plenty of your dogbones in the outdrive. Try to run 200mm track width in the back if possible.

Again, don't hesitate to ask any questions.

Dom
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Old 07-16-2006, 11:44 PM   #7527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmudd
Drove the new RRR-WC today. I put the car on the track as I got it from the guy I purchased it from. Now I didn't have a decent body on the car and the car was set up with the front oneway, heavy black springs up front and golds out back. Looking at the back of the car, the rear arms do not even hang to parallel with the ground (they are slanted up). Even with the down stops removed the arms didn't even hang level.

That being said, the car had unreal stearing (too much maybe), but off power the car would swap ends like nobody's business.

So here is my question, (understanding that stiffening the front/softening the rear...too much weight transfer to the front off power...etc...etc...) what exactly does a guy need to do to get some rear bite (car has rear traction on power). Looking at some setups on the net, it seems like guys are running harder tires in the rear or at least equal shore ratings, front and back and I ran 45's up front and 40's in the rear. ALso the rears were 0 offset and not the 2 degree offset.

Any ideas.

Thanks,
John
Go back to stock setting and then go from there you do not know what kind of track he was runing on.(this car is no joke you will be very happy with it)
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Old 07-17-2006, 12:27 AM   #7528
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One qhestion,can i use the PART:VSW035.alym.stay for front sway bar,on rrr
??This is an option for the FW05 RR...
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Old 07-17-2006, 05:48 AM   #7529
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isnt it
black-hard
gold-medium
silver-soft
??
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Old 07-17-2006, 05:54 AM   #7530
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Quote:
isnt it
black-hard
gold-medium
silver-soft
Nope -
silver - soft
black - medium
gold - hard
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