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Old 06-25-2006, 11:36 AM   #7336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx
Increase your negative camber Maskedrider, always set the camber for even wear on the tires even if you end up at 4 degrees on one side and 2 on one side. I do very seldom use a camber gauge, only use it for checking when im writing down setups.
if you have different angles in the two roads this won't end to have uneven wear on the tires? or it depends on the truck?
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Old 06-25-2006, 01:18 PM   #7337
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If the track is run clockwise (more right corners) you will probably end up with more negative camber on the left side to get a even wear on both sides.
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Old 06-25-2006, 01:37 PM   #7338
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I just got back from a very bumpy track and found I had to some serious setup changes to get the RRR to work on the bumps.

I went to front Evolva shocks on the rear with 3 x 1.5mm holes in the piston and 90 wt oil. Serpent yellow springs all round laid flat front and back.

Only then would the car behave itself. It seemed the 710 had less trouble handling the bumps and would not kick out under power as did the RRR.
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Old 06-25-2006, 01:42 PM   #7339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
I just got back from a very bumpy track and found I had to some serious setup changes to get the RRR to work on the bumps.

I went to front Evolva shocks on the rear with 3 x 1.5mm holes in the piston and 90 wt oil. Serpent yellow springs all round laid flat front and back.

Only then would the car behave itself. It seemed the 710 had less trouble handling the bumps and would not kick out under power as did the RRR.
What do you mean by "handling the bumps"? What are your droop settings?
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Old 06-25-2006, 03:10 PM   #7340
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No droop at the front and 3mm rear, i usually dont run any. The bumps were so bad the car was skipping and loosing traction out of the corners and spinning out. Not until I drastically changed the setup did it start to behave.

You have probably driven on bumpy tracks but i can assure you nothing like this!!
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Old 06-25-2006, 05:31 PM   #7341
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What kind (brand) of 90wt oil? If I am to run on a bumpy track, I would be incline to run 90wt oil in the back.

I'll ask a few questions first...

What ride height?
Which rear sway?
Is the front hopping too or just the rear?

Before you changed to that particular setup, what set up were you running before?

Dom
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Old 06-25-2006, 11:21 PM   #7342
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somebody posted before a problem like mine and probably this will help in the future, yesterday i noticed my 2-speed binding severely, the car on the floor rolled freely to the front but not to the back and was on second gear all the time, after a close inspection noticed a small piece of metal sticking out right where the 2-speed adjust hole was made that was catching the 2-speed clutch causing the problem, less than 1 minute with a dremel and problem fixed.
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:59 AM   #7343
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hi all, just bought a front diff set for my rrr wc, what is a good oil to start with in front and rear diffs? i drive on the mach circuit in heemstede the netherlands

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Old 06-26-2006, 04:31 AM   #7344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo46
hi all, just bought a front diff set for my rrr wc, what is a good oil to start with in front and rear diffs? i drive on the mach circuit in heemstede the netherlands

That track looks like it would really suit a one-way if can try and learn to drive with it. If you still want ot go with the gear diff than start with 15,000 rear and 50,000 front.
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Old 06-26-2006, 04:59 AM   #7345
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drove with the one way there, buth with the diff you can break so much later at the end of the straight, most guys are driving diff there
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:15 AM   #7346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
What kind (brand) of 90wt oil? If I am to run on a bumpy track, I would be incline to run 90wt oil in the back.

I'll ask a few questions first...

What ride height?
Which rear sway?
Is the front hopping too or just the rear?

Before you changed to that particular setup, what set up were you running before?

Dom
The kit piston holes are 1mm (or there abouts) and this is too small with any weight oil to handle bumps. You have to open the holes up but then you need to go up in weight of shock oil. The bigger the holes the stiffer the oil.

The bigger holes will not pack off like the small ones so you get damping but no skipping
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:27 AM   #7347
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Certainly I think our definition of bumpy track is different. Not sure about opening holes on the pistons, never really had to do that on the tracks I run at over here. But sounds like you've already found your setup answer.

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Old 06-26-2006, 07:47 AM   #7348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo46
hi all, just bought a front diff set for my rrr wc, what is a good oil to start with in front and rear diffs? i drive on the mach circuit in heemstede the netherlands

Sweet track!!!

I would go with 10,000 wt in the rear and 90,000wt in front.

What about the K-Factory spool, has anyone tried this on your track?

Remember, at the end of day, it's your driving style that counts.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:15 AM   #7349
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what will change if i put thicker or thinner oil in the diffs?
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Old 06-27-2006, 08:05 PM   #7350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo46
what will change if i put thicker or thinner oil in the diffs?

Thinner oil = softer diff car will have more off throttle steering less on power
thicker oil= opposite as above..........

Usually higher traction tracks you want stiffer diff, less traction softer diff

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