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Old 06-04-2006, 01:36 AM   #7156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
how to prolong the second pinion gear ? I notice that when i completed the 7min 2nd heat, the teeth seems worn out pretty fast, and some even loose the teeth .... I do the right setting/alightment together with the spur gear but it seems 'eating up ' the teeth ...
Or is it due to the weather or other factor?? My weather here averager is about 32 degree...Damn hot hot hot
And i running on a track similar to the last FEMCA taiwan race
Change to steel or hardened pinions and your spurs & pinions will last a lot longer.
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Old 06-04-2006, 06:58 PM   #7157
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Will....

here is that Rc Radio show I was talking about at the track today......just go here and click on the archives.


http://www.racetalklive.com
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Old 06-04-2006, 09:01 PM   #7158
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Default ok

i got it thanks (banky)
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:04 PM   #7159
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Can someone tell me where to find 26mm 45 shore and 30mm 42 shore good foam on dish wheels preferably black.

Jim
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:06 PM   #7160
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I am ordering a Kyosho this coming week, but I want to upgrade all the screws on the car. Where is a good place to get a screw set from? I would liek to have this kit before i start building the car.



thanks
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:26 PM   #7161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banky71
I am ordering a Kyosho this coming week, but I want to upgrade all the screws on the car. Where is a good place to get a screw set from? I would liek to have this kit before i start building the car.

thanks
www.hexcrews.com
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:00 PM   #7162
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Default srewz

Quote:
Originally Posted by banky71
I am ordering a Kyosho this coming week, but I want to upgrade all the screws on the car. Where is a good place to get a screw set from? I would liek to have this kit before i start building the car.



thanks
are you kidding me mcFADDEN DALE ON ARVILLE AND RENO SHOULD HAVE ASKED I JUST GOT ALL MY SREWZ FOR BOTH CARS THERE COME ON NOW COST ABOUT 10-15 BUCKS
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:54 AM   #7163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
is that a speed control on the Hudy truner ??? I couldn't find that button ??

only a on switch and revese switch, and of course the auotmatic switch to move the blade. One for the return, One for the Stop and One is for the auto move and return ..

Or my is the old model ??
I've got the Hudy Excellent Tire Truer - Fully Automatic. This is the speed control dial:
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho v-one rrr-speed_dial.jpg  
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:55 AM   #7164
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The GQ wheels held up well today, but because I was running the Ultimate X, I really didn't hit the sideboards (PVC pipe) very hard. I did manage to "clip" it twice, but not that hard at all. I started with 37 shore all the way around and the car was nice that way. Just loose enough for me to have fun, but not so loose that I would lose control. 40's on all four was way too lose. Tried 40 front, 37 rear and the car wasn't as good as 37's all the way around. As ziggy12345 said, the 37s are harder than my normal 37s. Maybe it's between 37 and 40?? I've always wanted a 38 or 39.

I need to order some more 37 and some 35 just to see what they are like. I'll probably order up some of those Serpent/Jacos as well. Jag - How are the shore ratings on those tires??

After the race, I was checking if the wheels were wobbling and look what I found. I'm not sure when this happend, but it could have been during the last main when I rearended someone at the end of the straight on the start - we start from a stopped position on the track at the start of the straight. He braked hard and as I was coming around the sweeper and then BAM! Wheel survived, but if this had split wide open, I would have retired on the first lap.

I hate when the hub gets damaged. The right and left are not interchangeable. In this instance, with my previous wheels/tires, I bet just a few spokes would have snapped...
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Kyosho v-one rrr-cracked_hub.jpg  
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Last edited by rmdhawaii; 06-05-2006 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:55 AM   #7165
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Default Engine ball bearings

hi all

although it is not this thread main subject..

how often do you need to change your engine axle ball bearings?
i have burnt nearly 5ltrs and the engine's rear ball bearing is not working well. actually you can move the axle with your hand a bit left-right, up -down (i don't know how to describe it better ).
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:03 AM   #7166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
hi all

although it is not this thread main subject..

how often do you need to change your engine axle ball bearings?
i have burnt nearly 5ltrs and the engine's rear ball bearing is not working well. actually you can move the axle with your hand a bit left-right, up -down (i don't know how to describe it better ).
I would say its toast so change it! It should feel ultra smooth when rotated with your finger
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:08 AM   #7167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I need to order some more 37 and some 35 just to see what they are like. I'll probably order up some of those Serpent/Jacos as well. Jag - How are the shore ratings on those tires??
I don't really know. I don't have a durometer and I'm not experienced enough to tell the difference.

Quote:
After the race, I was checking if the wheels were wobbling and look what I found. I'm not sure when this happend, but it could have been during the last main when I rearended someone at the end of the straight on the start - we start from a stopped position on the track at the start of the straight. He braked hard and as I was coming around the sweeper and then BAM! Wheel survived, but if this had split wide open, I would have retired on the first lap.

I hate when the hub gets damaged. The right and left are not interchangeable. In this instance, with my previous wheels/tires, I bet just a few spokes would have snapped...
At least you finished the race. I'm impressed... I would not expect that piece to stay together looking like that.
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:09 AM   #7168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
I would say its toast so change it! It should feel ultra smooth when rotated with your finger
yes i have the same feeling the last time i tried to play with the car the engine was overbearning... usually runs at 90-100 degrees C, it was running at 120C with out lexan i couldn't find out why, i had the fuel tooooo rich and the temperature didn't fell. so i opened the engine to clean it in case of something has inserted in the engine.. and i found out that the ball bearing was running correctly. when i make the rod movement with my hand the rod is attaching the engine's body, not too much but they come in to touch you can feel it that too metals are getting toooo close.

so i suppose this is the reason that the temperature was getting high. what i was wondering is how often it is normal for the ball bearings to be changed or mayble there is a "normal" period.
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:46 AM   #7169
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One thing I was taught is to check the lateral bearing load. A bearing can feel pretty smooth, but if the shaft can move in and out of it ever so slightly, the rod can rub on the back plate easily to create friction and unnecessary heat and drag. Also check your crank area between the front and rear bearing for scratches, see if it's rubbing inside the crankcase.

On the case of tire shores.

I have borrowed a durometer to check shores between GQ and Jaco when I was first on board with GQ, the shore ratings are pretty accurate with the label with both GQ and Jaco. Now, on "paper" they might seem the same shore, should handle the same, but it's the make up of the rubber that is diffferent that gives the different characteristics on the track.

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Old 06-05-2006, 11:33 AM   #7170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I'll probably order up some of those Serpent/Jacos as well. Jag - How are the shore ratings on those tires??
RMD you won't be disappointed with the Serpent/Jaco combination. The rims work very well with the Jaco rubber. The Jaco shore is 38 and is very close to the durometer readings that i get, but the rubber feels a little stickier than an average 37 shore.

You will be pleased with the performance of those tires.
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