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Old 05-23-2006, 06:00 AM   #6871
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i've fond that the ennetti rims are somewhere in between, with their reiforced
spokes they tend to not break or buckle much if you hit things like i do at times and they hold their shape good under cornering load too.
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Old 05-23-2006, 06:08 AM   #6872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzD
I'm an Applied Physics major. yes, you are correct. Spoke wheels tend to absorb most of the energy during a collision.If you look at dish wheels, they are made compact no spokes. During a collision, energy is readily transferred since the wheel is in dish shape "one pieace, no spokes" energy disturbance can easily be transferred to the suspension parts. IN spoke wheels, energy can not transfer easliy into other spokes if a certain spoke is hit head on. This results in that spoke breaking because it absorbed most of the energy.
its got something to do with impulses and changes in momentum.Impulses are the force of the hit which creates the damage to the wheel. The damage greatly depends on the mass of the car and the speed it is travelling at.

The impulse can be worked out by using the formula impulse= f*t where:
f=force in newtons
t= time in seconds

to work out the force you use f=m*a where:
f= force in newtons
m=mass in kilograms
a=acceleration in m/s/s


to work out a you use: a=v1-v0/t where:
a=acceleration
v1= final velocity at impact
v0= initial velocity
t= time in seconds


ok so if you rrr was going 27.7m/s (100km/h) down the main straight and you hit a flamed out mugen's right front wheel spoke on the main straightaway side on, considering the time it took you to accelerate to the end of the straightaway was 5 seconds, your final equations looks something like this:

impulse= ((1.7)*(27.7-0/5)) * 5
so force of the hit= 47.09 newton seconds
which = bye bye mugen wheel spoke

fritz correct me if i am wrong
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Old 05-23-2006, 06:40 AM   #6873
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i think it would just be easier to just not to hit anything...
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Old 05-23-2006, 06:40 AM   #6874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Getting back to my previous discussion on dish versus spoke wheels, I discovered something very interesting this weekend. This is just a theory, so help me out here.

If you're running spoke wheels, crash into the sideboards and snap some spokes, I think it means that the wheel absorbed most of the force of the crash and less of the impact was transferred to the suspension components. If you're running dish wheels, the impact is somewhat cushioned by the tires, but depending on the angle of impact, most of the force will be transferred to the suspension components, because the dish is a solid piece - although it may absorb some of the crash as evidenced by by bent wheels.

Also, it seems that snapped spoked wheels are more resilient, in that you can continue to drive a car with snapped spokes, but with dish wheels, once it starts to wobble, it's time to stop driving the car.

The whole concept behind all of this would be, that it's better to have a collection of wheels with snapped spokes, than a collection of bent wheels and broken suspension parts.

Does that make any sense? Agree or disagree? Have any other theories? Comments? Any physics majors out there?

It's just a thought.
It really depends upon the manufacturer. The Jaco wheel (white spoke) is fragile. I have broken spokes on that wheel many times. Once the wheel is broken, it's garbage. I have never had a broken wheel that wasn't bent. I used Jaco wheels for my first qualifier this weekend and found that I had a broken front wheel when I pulled them off after the race. I switched to the new Serpent rim (yellow spoke) with Jaco foam and used them the rest of the weekend and had no problems. A couple of the wheels I used have a slight wobble but nothing bad. I am going to use the Serpent/Jaco tire from now on. I don't like a dish wheel because you can't make any suspension adjustments with the wheels on. I really can't comment on the physics but what you say sounds logical.
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Old 05-23-2006, 06:43 AM   #6875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamite
i think it would just be easier to just not to hit anything...

True
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Old 05-23-2006, 07:05 AM   #6876
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I am entered into the Kyosho cup and they gave me the following body shell list

k.39172 Body Shell (Castrol Mugen NSX)
k.39173 Body Shell (Chevrolet Corvette C5-R)
k.39174 Body Sheel (ZERO McLaren)
k.39179 Body Shell (Calsonic Skyline)
k.39182 Body Shell (Subaru Impreza WRC)
k.39184 Body Shell (Castrol Tom's Supra)
k.39187 Body Shell (Impreza WRC2003)
k.39241 Body Shell (Vauxhall Astra)
k.39242 Body Shell (NSX 2002)
k.39247 Body Shell (Porsche GT3-RS)
k.39249 Body Shell (CLK DTM2002 AMG)
k.39252 Body Shell (Nisan Fairlady 350Z)
k.39255 Body Shell (Alfa 156 GTA Super 2000)
k.39256 Body Shell (Motul Pitwork GT-R)
k.39257 Body Shell (BMW M3 GTR)
k.39258 Body Shell (NSX 2004)
k.39259 Body Shell (Calsonic Impul Z)
k.39260 Body Shell (Porsche 911 GT2)
k.39263 Body Shell (Subaru Impreza WRC2004)
k.39264 Body Shell (Ferrari 360GTC)
k.39265 Body Shell (Ferrari 575GTC)
k.39266 Body Shell (Ford Mustang GTR)
k.39269 Body Shell (Supra 2005)
k.39271 Body Shell (Lamborghini Murcielago)
k.39272 Body Shell (NSX 2005)

I havent used any of them, Whats the best?

Cheers
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Old 05-23-2006, 07:21 AM   #6877
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I think the Vauxhall Astra would be the most stable out of them all. The protoform version handled brilliantly.
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Old 05-23-2006, 07:29 AM   #6878
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Could someone post a setup for Crystal Park. Especially on the tires. I'm getting ready to put an order in and just want to see what tires work best. At our local track (www.cwhit.com) we had the regionals this past weekend and with Jaco 40's I had to drive the car carefully. Some coners you could see the inside wheel lifting. I ended up going to 42's in the main (45 min) and the car just pushed too much.

Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 05-23-2006, 09:11 AM   #6879
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Old 05-23-2006, 09:20 AM   #6880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
It really depends upon the manufacturer. The Jaco wheel (white spoke) is fragile. I have broken spokes on that wheel many times. Once the wheel is broken, it's garbage. I have never had a broken wheel that wasn't bent. I used Jaco wheels for my first qualifier this weekend and found that I had a broken front wheel when I pulled them off after the race. I switched to the new Serpent rim (yellow spoke) with Jaco foam and used them the rest of the weekend and had no problems. A couple of the wheels I used have a slight wobble but nothing bad. I am going to use the Serpent/Jaco tire from now on. I don't like a dish wheel because you can't make any suspension adjustments with the wheels on. I really can't comment on the physics but what you say sounds logical.
I agree with Jim. The materials the manufacturers use is rather important. I don't think the majority of you guys have given GQ a shot, but that is probably one of the most durable wheels out there. Spokes are thick, unlike Mugen Fast wheels. I have yet to see a broken wheel like a Jaco, we have novice guys running nitro up and down Washington and Oregon. It's hard to get it wobble, but it's possible... but then mount it on the truer and you can striaghten it out easily.

I would rather have a wobble wheel then a broken wheel. You can still win a Main with a wobble wheel, you can't win a race with a broken wheel.

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Old 05-23-2006, 09:35 AM   #6881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
I am entered into the Kyosho cup and they gave me the following body shell list

k.39172 Body Shell (Castrol Mugen NSX)
k.39173 Body Shell (Chevrolet Corvette C5-R)
k.39174 Body Sheel (ZERO McLaren)
k.39179 Body Shell (Calsonic Skyline)
k.39182 Body Shell (Subaru Impreza WRC)
k.39184 Body Shell (Castrol Tom's Supra)
k.39187 Body Shell (Impreza WRC2003)
k.39241 Body Shell (Vauxhall Astra)
k.39242 Body Shell (NSX 2002)
k.39247 Body Shell (Porsche GT3-RS)
k.39249 Body Shell (CLK DTM2002 AMG)
k.39252 Body Shell (Nisan Fairlady 350Z)
k.39255 Body Shell (Alfa 156 GTA Super 2000)
k.39256 Body Shell (Motul Pitwork GT-R)
k.39257 Body Shell (BMW M3 GTR)
k.39258 Body Shell (NSX 2004)
k.39259 Body Shell (Calsonic Impul Z)
k.39260 Body Shell (Porsche 911 GT2)
k.39263 Body Shell (Subaru Impreza WRC2004)
k.39264 Body Shell (Ferrari 360GTC)
k.39265 Body Shell (Ferrari 575GTC)
k.39266 Body Shell (Ford Mustang GTR)
k.39269 Body Shell (Supra 2005)
k.39271 Body Shell (Lamborghini Murcielago)
k.39272 Body Shell (NSX 2005)

I havent used any of them, Whats the best?

Cheers
Anybody sell these online? I also need the kyosho kit tyres

Cheers
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Old 05-23-2006, 12:33 PM   #6882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
Can anyone give me an idea on a starting point for gearing on the pictured track please. I have a JP-FX03 M motor.
I would think 17/60 and 23/55.
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Old 05-23-2006, 12:38 PM   #6883
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Is there a specific body post I should be using for the middle of the upper deck? or can I use any body post. I would like to have more support for the body so it doesn't bend inward with the downforce.

thanks,
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Old 05-23-2006, 12:48 PM   #6884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCB
Is there a specific body post I should be using for the middle of the upper deck? or can I use any body post. I would like to have more support for the body so it doesn't bend inward with the downforce.

thanks,
I use the same body post as the fronts.
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Old 05-23-2006, 01:07 PM   #6885
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Talk about the 5th body post. Mike Ellis has invented something.... our 5th post comes out of that screw hole for the steering bellcrank. That way, the windshield is mounted on the post, not the hood so gives better support for the downforce.

I use an XRAY T1 generation front post as the 5th post, it's just a personal preference.

Dom
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