R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-22-2006, 08:08 PM   #6856
Tech Fanatic
 
robert maestrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miramar
Posts: 906
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bosfan
has anyone tried the k factory steel rear universals?
i am putting them on my wce now and noticed a lot of play in the hub,they are not fitting snug like the kit.
what i mean by play is my rear width can go from 200 to 210 because the universal slides back and forth in the hub.

something doesnt sound right are you sure your not supposed to use a spacer betwwen the hub and where the pin goes...if anything pm motorman he is dennis richey he will be able to help you ......he distribute k-factory
robert maestrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 08:12 PM   #6857
Tech Fanatic
 
robert maestrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miramar
Posts: 906
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Thanks Robert. You should have brought home the 1st place trophy for the A main. I can't believe your transmitter battery went dead... while leading the race.

A bit of free advice to those of you out there like me... not an expert driver. Find an expert driver then watch and listen. It really helps.

Thanks again Robert. What are we going to do for the summer?

Yea among other things that went bad....was that awesome lipo radio pack reads 11.5 when I start but 5 minutes into race is down to 6.7 and they state when its fully charged you get 3-4 hours run time This summer probrably gonna be pretty laid back for me maybe hit Ft.Myers once for club race definetly going to GLC race wanna go
robert maestrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 08:33 PM   #6858
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 280
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
That's not good. My suggestion would be, pull one of them out, put the stock and the K Factory universal side-by-side and compare the two. What is difference?
the k factory ones are definately longer but it seems that the part that goes into the hub is longer (where as the hole on the axle in the wce fit perfect with the wheel hex up against the hub the k factory ones have about 5mm of play between the same spot
bosfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 08:39 PM   #6859
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 280
Default

the only way it will work is if i take the axle off of the wce dog bone and put it on the k factory dogbone
bosfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 08:44 PM   #6860
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bosfan
the k factory ones are definately longer but it seems that the part that goes into the hub is longer (where as the hole on the axle in the wce fit perfect with the wheel hex up against the hub the k factory ones have about 5mm of play between the same spot
Seems to me that you have the wrong part. You should not be putting a 5mm spacer/shim!

Do you have the K1911 (http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...1911&pageNum=2)?
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 08:52 PM   #6861
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 280
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Seems to me that you have the wrong part. You should not be putting a 5mm spacer/shim!

Do you have the K1911 (http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...1911&pageNum=2)?
that's what it says on the package it came in
bosfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 08:55 PM   #6862
Tech Elite
 
SOLOARTIST 702's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: WORLD WIDE
Posts: 3,393
Send a message via AIM to SOLOARTIST 702
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Okay Will, spill the beans. How did you do with the WP Spec?
well i am kinda dissapointed but ok i blew my nova LL3 but didnt know it until after the last qual so i put in my #1 motor rex LR3 MURNAN MOD i had set up issues but all my own fault i will get it together for the nats dont count me out yet you guys make it to the nats it will be a blast got to love it
__________________
RC AMERICA / XRAY / HUDY/ MATRIX TIRES /KOPROPO / ORCAN GT3 /RED CUP RACING MEMBER / SPEEWORLD RACEWAY/ A+ performance parts /IVE SEEN THE XRAY TEAM DRIVE SO I GOT XRAY CARS / better to keep up than to catch up

WILLIAM PENDERGRASS
SOLOARTIST 702 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 08:57 PM   #6863
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bosfan
that's what it says on the package it came in
At this point, my suggestion would be to contact K Factory Racing directly through their contact page (http://www.kfactoryracing.com/contactsus.jsp), the person/company you bought it from or motorman as Robert suggested.
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 10:33 PM   #6864
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 61
Default

finally after waiting about 3 weeks, got my car last thursday, started building friday, im doing between 2 to 3 hours a day until sunday night came to a halt due to a shortage on screws, looks like my car came 4 screws short all im missing to finish is to intall the top deck, will have to go to a hardware store to get them, so far parts fit have been awesome, besides the screw situation and some parts of the manual being kind of confusing im happy with the car, had the kfactory universals for front but swaped them for dogbones after finding them too short on the diff side. lets see what happens next.
oderem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2006, 11:09 PM   #6865
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pole Position
Posts: 3,173
Trader Rating: 13 (93%+)
Default

yeh i noticed my new kit was missing a few screws

however it does have nice new fuel tank with new lid
looks just like the evolva 05 lid
__________________
Serpent 748 TQ | GIMAR Engines
Walter RC HObby | www.walterrchobby.com.au
BlueRC | www.bluerc.net
mrgsr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 12:37 AM   #6866
Tech Addict
 
acutts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: London, UK
Posts: 507
Default

Can anyone give me an idea on a starting point for gearing on the pictured track please. I have a JP-FX03 M motor.
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho v-one rrr-pa020054a.jpg  
acutts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 01:05 AM   #6867
Tech Apprentice
 
antoine80's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 94
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
Can anyone give me an idea on a starting point for gearing on the pictured track please. I have a JP-FX03 M motor.
something not really in common with your question.. what are the external dimension of the track? (in meters if possible )
antoine80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:12 AM   #6868
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Getting back to my previous discussion on dish versus spoke wheels, I discovered something very interesting this weekend. This is just a theory, so help me out here.

If you're running spoke wheels, crash into the sideboards and snap some spokes, I think it means that the wheel absorbed most of the force of the crash and less of the impact was transferred to the suspension components. If you're running dish wheels, the impact is somewhat cushioned by the tires, but depending on the angle of impact, most of the force will be transferred to the suspension components, because the dish is a solid piece - although it may absorb some of the crash as evidenced by by bent wheels.

Also, it seems that snapped spoked wheels are more resilient, in that you can continue to drive a car with snapped spokes, but with dish wheels, once it starts to wobble, it's time to stop driving the car.

The whole concept behind all of this would be, that it's better to have a collection of wheels with snapped spokes, than a collection of bent wheels and broken suspension parts.

Does that make any sense? Agree or disagree? Have any other theories? Comments? Any physics majors out there?

It's just a thought.
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:21 AM   #6869
Tech Master
 
fritzD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Cebu City, Philippines
Posts: 1,136
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to fritzD
Default

I'm an Applied Physics major. yes, you are correct. Spoke wheels tend to absorb most of the energy during a collision.If you look at dish wheels, they are made compact no spokes. During a collision, energy is readily transferred since the wheel is in dish shape "one pieace, no spokes" energy disturbance can easily be transferred to the suspension parts. IN spoke wheels, energy can not transfer easliy into other spokes if a certain spoke is hit head on. This results in that spoke breaking because it absorbed most of the energy.
fritzD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2006, 05:23 AM   #6870
Tech Apprentice
 
antoine80's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 94
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Getting back to my previous discussion on dish versus spoke wheels, I discovered something very interesting this weekend. This is just a theory, so help me out here.

If you're running spoke wheels, crash into the sideboards and snap some spokes, I think it means that the wheel absorbed most of the force of the crash and less of the impact was transferred to the suspension components. If you're running dish wheels, the impact is somewhat cushioned by the tires, but depending on the angle of impact, most of the force will be transferred to the suspension components, because the dish is a solid piece - although it may absorb some of the crash as evidenced by by bent wheels.

Also, it seems that snapped spoked wheels are more resilient, in that you can continue to drive a car with snapped spokes, but with dish wheels, once it starts to wobble, it's time to stop driving the car.

The whole concept behind all of this would be, that it's better to have a collection of wheels with snapped spokes, than a collection of bent wheels and broken suspension parts.

Does that make any sense? Agree or disagree? Have any other theories? Comments? Any physics majors out there?

It's just a thought.

i think it depends of the power that the wheels needs to break, also the point that the wheel is being hit matters. if the wheel needs enough power for the spike to break then the damage may have been done alreaday even though the spike is being broken

also if the axle is hitted as you hit the sideboards the axle may bent while the wheel is being broken

but i have to agree with you that if the wheel breaks it seems like it has "consumes" most of the power from the crash, like passive safety in our cars
antoine80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE - Mugen MBX5T ProSpec and Kyosho STR with chassis conversion and Kyosho big MattWells R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 04-28-2017 10:25 AM
1986 1/12 Kyosho Plazma MKIII With Kyosho LeMan 600E Motor Funkymojo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 05-17-2012 11:11 AM
Custom painted Kyosho SP2 and Kyosho STRR bodies.... RC3 Graphics SWEET W/ PICS CRFXXXT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 01-07-2008 07:38 PM
MACH. 28/NEW PS, KYOSHO MINI INFERNO ST/W/3NEW IB1400 8 CELL PACKS, KYOSHO 1./8 BUGGY newbie2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-18-2007 06:07 PM
Convert Kyosho Quick Start system on Kyosho QRC to Pullstart Morpheus2be Monster Trucks 0 02-16-2005 11:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:30 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net