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Old 05-20-2006, 10:17 PM   #6781
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nice body hawaii.....

for me ??
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:16 AM   #6782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
antoine80, post your current setup. As much detail as possible. Also give us the kind of track you're running on. Low, med, high grip? Is it a fast, slow, open or techincal? Smooth or bumpy? Is the track prepped? What kind of body are you running?

From the looks of it, having to go down to 20k in the diff, you're probably on a med traction track. A good thing to do is take notes during the free time you get at the track. Don't just burn up fuel and wear tires down. Experiment with every run or few laps. Make one change at a time. Write down what works and doesn't for your driving style. Lots of people get caught up in what others tell them to do. But sometimes that's not what works for yourself. Try different springs, droop settings, caster, camber, etc ... in due time you'll know your car better than the guys watching you. And when conditions change, you'll know what to do. Who knows, your car may already be dialed. You may just need to work on driving, because your car may push, but it shouldn't be going straight when the wheels coxed over. Try slowing down a bit, some races are won in the turns. Hopefully we can get you in complete dialation.
Hey,
sorry for the delay to answer

my current setup is the one that had the kit in the manual, unfortunately i don't have a setup kit (yet..) and i have to set it up the way it say in the manual. I just have increased the rear camber a bit because the back part of the car wasn't very steady.

my body kit is a Mustang GTR, it is a nice body kit but i think it needs to be changed.. i didn't believe that a the body would increase/decrease the handling of the car but it seems so..

ok the track i use to run is small truck, mid grip with a lot of close turns.

Today we had a race it turned out to be a disaster for me , from the beginning of the race the face of the car was tooooo loosy, i need to change the tires before the race and the new ones didn't work very well so in fast turn by the end of the race i "lost" the car and i broke down my excaust pipe..

a question.. what is "droop", i know what is camber and caster. i know that caster more in front wheels gives you better handling in turns but you are not steady in straigh driving.. correct me if wrong..

what do you mean "be going straight when the wheels coxed over" ?
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:34 AM   #6783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
Hey,
sorry for the delay to answer
No problemo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
my current setup is the one that had the kit in the manual, unfortunately i don't have a setup kit (yet..) and i have to set it up the way it say in the manual. I just have increased the rear camber a bit because the back part of the car wasn't very steady.
Even if you don't have a setup kit, you do need to measure the angles so that your car is setup properly. The manual is just a baseline. Maybe you could ask to borrow someone else just to see where your car is at.

Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
my body kit is a Mustang GTR, it is a nice body kit but i think it needs to be changed.. i didn't believe that a the body would increase/decrease the handling of the car but it seems so..
It makes a difference for racing. Go with Protoform Mazda 6, Protoform Stratus 3.0/3.1 or PARMA/PSE Type M.

Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
ok the track i use to run is small truck, mid grip with a lot of close turns.
What are the dimensions in meters?

Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
Today we had a race it turned out to be a disaster for me , from the beginning of the race the face of the car was tooooo loosy, i need to change the tires before the race and the new ones didn't work very well so in fast turn by the end of the race i "lost" the car and i broke down my excaust pipe..
You need to make sure you have plenty of the same shore tires, so that when you change them, the car is more predictable. Also, you should have at least 2-3 spare tuned pipes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
a question.. what is "droop", i know what is camber and caster. i know that caster more in front wheels gives you better handling in turns but you are not steady in straigh driving.. correct me if wrong..
Go here and download the Hudy Set-up Book. That will explain everything.
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:40 AM   #6784
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Hey again, thnx for the fast reply..

This will be one of my next updates..

Quote:
It makes a difference for racing. Go with Protoform Mazda 6, Protoform Stratus 3.0/3.1 or PARMA/PSE Type M.
Quote:
What are the dimensions in meters?
Unfortunately i don't know the dimension, if it says something to you the fast drivers go through it in about 17secs..


Quote:
You need to make sure you have plenty of the same shore tires, so that when you change them, the car is more predictable. Also, you should have at least 2-3 spare tuned pipes.
I understood that today... also the tuned pipes is a bit expensive for my wallet.. here i buy it for about 100euros manifold + pipe i don't know how much you need to spend for it, i think 100 euros is about 110-120dollars


Quote:
Go here and download the Hudy Set-up Book. That will explain everything.
[/QUOTE]

i just went there to download the book
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:58 AM   #6785
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According to this currency calculator , 100 Euro = $127.00

You should start shopping around. Tuned pipe should be around $50-65. Tires - $9-15.
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Old 05-21-2006, 11:20 AM   #6786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
According to this currency calculator , 100 Euro = $127.00

You should start shopping around. Tuned pipe should be around $50-65. Tires - $9-15.
Thnx for the tip do you have any tuned pipe maker to propose me? also between different tuned pipes do you "suffer" any change in motor performane.. for instance if i buy a novarossi tuned pipe or serio one, am i going to see differences?
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Old 05-21-2006, 11:27 AM   #6787
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Quote:
, caster, camber, etc ...
checking out what is droop.. i have 0mm droop currently in my car setup reading you get wiser... i though that the proper way to change the ride height was through the downstop screws.. i am totally wrong i think now
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Old 05-21-2006, 03:09 PM   #6788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
checking out what is droop.. i have 0mm droop currently in my car setup reading you get wiser... i though that the proper way to change the ride height was through the downstop screws.. i am totally wrong i think now
Adjust ride height through the spring perches.

Last edited by performula; 05-21-2006 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 05-21-2006, 04:26 PM   #6789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
Adjust ride height threw the spring perches.
yes i understood that.. i am ready the hudy setup book now and i am reading too many information that i didn't know
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Old 05-21-2006, 07:52 PM   #6790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Swift
Big thanks go out to the one and only Joel Johnson for making me part of team Kyosho America. I look forward to great results running the V-One RRR.
Wow, congrats man. i wish i could be fast enough to be part of team kyosho. good luck!
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:10 PM   #6791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp Racer
This "Type M" body looks very similar to the Blitz/Titan Mazda 3 ( My favourite) ....anybody tried these back to back?
I've tried both. They don't look that similar side by side and I think the Parma is more stable.
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:22 PM   #6792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
yes i understood that.. i am ready the hudy setup book now and i am reading too many information that i didn't know
The first thing you should do before any setting is adjust track width. Follow the RRR manual for building perimeters, but the first step using the Hudy should be width. Going through the six or seven steps to find out you're offset by 2-3mm and having to readjust everything will be frustrating.
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Old 05-21-2006, 09:16 PM   #6793
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Default rear shock end ball cup

hi guys
i just wanted to ask a question regarding the rear shock end ball cup.

the manual says to use the small ball end. however when using small diameter tyres there is not enough thread on the shock body to gain the right ride height.

on my previous rrr another racer once told me to use the medium ball end.
is this the right thing to do ? i just want to make sure this rrr is built as per the book from the beginning.
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Old 05-21-2006, 09:31 PM   #6794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
hi guys
i just wanted to ask a question regarding the rear shock end ball cup.

the manual says to use the small ball end. however when using small diameter tyres there is not enough thread on the shock body to gain the right ride height.

on my previous rrr another racer once told me to use the medium ball end.
is this the right thing to do ? i just want to make sure this rrr is built as per the book from the beginning.
Yeah, you're right. I used the Medium length ball end.
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Old 05-21-2006, 09:42 PM   #6795
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Tried the PARMA/PSE Type M today and didn't like it very much. Made the rear end way too loose for my setup and driving style. If I want this much steering, I'll setup the car to have this much steering. It also doesn't seem as durable as the Protoform. I'm going back to the Mazda 6.

litespeed-dom and Rob - What do you guys think??
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