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Old 05-16-2006, 12:07 AM   #6601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toinou
Yeess !! Thank you for your reply.

I use white Kyosho grease which I puts above. It is the same one as Tamiya ? Have a reference so that I order this Tamiya grease ?

@++
No problem. Glad I could help even if you are in France. I've been there once when I was a kid. Where do you live and race?

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=399&id=1711
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:28 AM   #6602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momentum
Best of luck replacing the antenna.

When I bought my Spektrum the receiver antenna had broken inside the case. Re-soldering it required the patience of a saint and one very large magnifying glass. I think making love to a spider would have been easier.

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does your reciever work properly after soldering the wire back on ??
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:29 AM   #6603
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Talking

I live in Strasbourg near Germany. I drive in M.A.H. I makes races of Kyosho Cup and some friendly races.

My Circuit when i drive

Thank you for the information, i bought this grease.

@++
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:32 AM   #6604
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Originally Posted by ickvanovs
what is it for?
any improvement in performance after you use it?
when your tank is full after a fuel stop there is not enough room inside the tank to allow pressure to build up, so the pressure chamber allows pressure to build up inside the chamber so that you get a constant flow of fuel to the carby!
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:55 AM   #6605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Jim, here are the pics on Mike's car.

Notice how there is a metal tubing above between the ball and the screw head? As Mike said, he uses a JRX-S c-hub busing and drilled it out to fit the M3 screw. I used an XRAY T2 c-hub bushing on my car which is meant for a M3 screw already. That's the only difference between ours.

Notice how when the suspension is in full compression the ballend does not get binded up by the screw head because it is now elevated.

I hope the pics help explained Mike's post.

Dom
The ball end also has to be cut away at the top and bottom to stop this binding against the ball.

What does this part do to the handeling of the car? Is it more stable at the back end now? I find it a little twitchy in standard trim

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Old 05-16-2006, 04:58 AM   #6606
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I need help please! Were can I order the rear CVD's that come with the 2mm spacer so that I can run 0 offset tires on the rear of my V-One RRR WCE ? Also I saw it mentioned about a aluminum brace for the 2 speed that keeps the gears in lign?

Thanks as I would like to get this right to start with
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:32 AM   #6607
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does anyone know the part number for the low friction belts not the stock ones?
are they a lot more expensive than the stockers?
are they worth the extra money?


thanx
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:45 AM   #6608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboy Bob
I need help please! Were can I order the rear CVD's that come with the 2mm spacer so that I can run 0 offset tires on the rear of my V-One RRR WCE ? Also I saw it mentioned about a aluminum brace for the 2 speed that keeps the gears in lign?

Thanks as I would like to get this right to start with
You can order the parts from RC-Champ VZW007, but you will also need the 2mm spacers not sure of that parts number.

The Kawahara (carbon fibre) or 3Racing (aluminium) RHS brace is what you need
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Old 05-16-2006, 06:25 AM   #6609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Jim, here are the pics on Mike's car.

Notice how there is a metal tubing above between the ball and the screw head? As Mike said, he uses a JRX-S c-hub busing and drilled it out to fit the M3 screw. I used an XRAY T2 c-hub bushing on my car which is meant for a M3 screw already. That's the only difference between ours.

Notice how when the suspension is in full compression the ballend does not get binded up by the screw head because it is now elevated.

I hope the pics help explained Mike's post.

Dom
I see now what you are talking about... good idea. You still need to trim the link on the bottom right? I think I can get the Xray part so I'll give it a try.

Thanks.
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Old 05-16-2006, 06:29 AM   #6610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
You can order the parts from RC-Champ VZW007, but you will also need the 2mm spacers not sure of that parts number.

The Kawahara (carbon fibre) or 3Racing (aluminium) RHS brace is what you need
The VSW007 universals come with 2mm spacers. That's all you need.
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Old 05-16-2006, 06:34 AM   #6611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
does anyone know the part number for the low friction belts not the stock ones?
are they a lot more expensive than the stockers?
are they worth the extra money?


thanx
I believe the low friction belts come with the WCE... at least they did with mine. I think they are more expensive but you should use them if you are racing. They make the drive train more free.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:19 AM   #6612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
does anyone know the part number for the low friction belts not the stock ones?
are they a lot more expensive than the stockers?
are they worth the extra money?


thanx
Definitely worth it according to Robert. He has run both. These come standard on the WCE. Here are the part numbers.

Kyosho VZW201 SP Drive Belt 189 (RRR) F
Kyosho VZW202 SP Drive Belt 384 (RRR) M
Kyosho VZW203 SP Drive Belt 180 (RRR) R
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:25 PM   #6613
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Default Oh yeah baby!!!

Santa came today in the very hot Oregon weather.

Sirio EVO3 STI (yeah baby!), EVO3 pipe, RRR SP Chassis... along with new crankshaft for my EVO3 from last year.

Dom
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:33 PM   #6614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Santa came today in the very hot Oregon weather.

Sirio EVO3 STI (yeah baby!), EVO3 pipe, RRR SP Chassis... along with new crankshaft for my EVO3 from last year.

Dom

Sweet! I wish that got delivered here.
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:03 PM   #6615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Santa came today in the very hot Oregon weather.

Sirio EVO3 STI (yeah baby!), EVO3 pipe, RRR SP Chassis... along with new crankshaft for my EVO3 from last year.

Dom
Jealousy has set in..
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